New to AV and using a PD1

[bomberbaz]

Hello all. I have been doing visual for a while now but after stumbling accross the PD1 in a article and reading write ups etc, I decided to give it a whirl. Previously I have toyed around with a webcam but nothing more. Just add I have no intention of going to full AP, this I find interesting as it is relatively low cost, can utilize my visual set up and hopefully will give some decent images once I get my head round it.

So I have all the bits and bobs needed  (power supplies, reducers, filters etc) and my scope should be ok as I am led to believe (see sig) but I am struggling a little with the camera.

I appear to be getting very fuzzy images which I know are not focus related as I use a bahtinov mask to get this and lock it off.  Also just point out I have tried getting clips several times before now, this isn't an out of the box query.

The camera comes with recomended settings and it is these where I am thinking the issue lies. I tried last night using said recommended settings on M42 which gathered imo too much light causing the fuzziness, I may be wrong. I then also tried Jupiter and it just didnt get enough light and was little more than a dull blob with even duller blob moons. There is an imense change when you switch AGC off and i wondered what this is and how it work. I understand the gamma side of thing in basic terms and then there is the SENSE UP, I know what it appears to do but not sure how this works at it appears to work similar to Gamma.

So my query is, what does anyone else use for video capture? I use the default supplied software but I have used sharpcap before with the play webcam. And what camera settings do they find work for planets, brighter DSO's (ie M42/45 etc) and duller ones (M33).

Also where can I get more info about some of the settings as knowing what things do better should lead to better images. I know there are several questions wrapped up in this opening post but they are the ones that |I feel are potentially where the issue lies.

I am quite happy to experiment but when one appears to be getting know where fast you have to start asking questions.

TIA

Steve

[shirva]

HI STEVE..fuzzy ? is it horizontal banding running across screen( power supply that comes with the pd1 was giving me this problem)

the settings vary slightly from camera to camera believe it or not maybe only slight but can make a diff...i use a flip mirror and a 6mm lens to get focussed in on a target the mask is good if you have a nearby bright object...the sense up function is basicaly a slow shutter the higher the value the longer the shutter stays open and gathers more light..x2 = 0.04 sec  and x1024 is under 20 seconds,this is accumilation or intregration ...

[bomberbaz]

right got that with power supply. I will use mains next time to see if this improves things, Do you have any general settings that you use other than the recommended ones shirva, I feel I need to try something different!

[shirva]

TRIAL AND ERROR IM AFFRAID   would depend on scope ect focal reducer ,flip lens ect,,i wouldnt want to give you a bum steer,,i struggled at first could not see a thing could not focus was next up,others were firing out great images and i was ready to fire my scope over back fence..back to basics i went daylight objects ect to focus on ect..

i take it its the goto truss dob you are using,,,i think you need to move the primary nearer the secondary i read somewhere ???? check focus on furthest object during the day this will give you a rough guide ,,use a 25mm then decrease to a 6mm this simulates the sensor in the pd1 if you cant achieve a focuss try moving truss...davy

[bomberbaz]

Cheers davy but I THINK i figured it last night, it is the focal length almost certain. I am using a F4.9/1500 flex, shove a camera which has an equivalent fl of 6mm and you have 250x magnification, thats far too much.

Come to think of it I am nigh on sure I used a reducer last time and got much clearer although out of focus images. (No bahntinov back then)

So next chance I get I am going to slap the reducer on and see what that gives us, if this is better I might then look at getting more reducers of differing powers for different objects but I if I am right I reckon a 0.8 one should be on as a minimum all the time (200x equivalent)

lets see how we get on

steve

[johnno]

Steve this what I use

http://www.opticstar.com/Run/Astronomy/Astro-Accessories-Imagers-Opticstar.asp?p=0_10_5_0_3_9

[bomberbaz]

Steve this what I use

http://www.opticstar.com/Run/Astronomy/Astro-Accessories-Imagers-Opticstar.asp?p=0_10_5_0_3_9

nice looking john but how do they fit onto camera, they look like they do not slide into a focuser and that gives me worries about potential back focus issues as mine is set well back as it is!

Mind you and thinking about it, there is the adaptor that allows you to fit a filter/reducer thread directly to the camera and so might not be an issue, any chance of a pic when you have chance to show it connected john?

[bomberbaz]

nice looking john but how do they fit onto camera, they look like they do not slide into a focuser and that gives me worries about potential back focus issues as mine is set well back as it is!

Mind you and thinking about it, there is the adaptor that allows you to fit a filter/reducer thread directly to the camera and so might not be an issue, any chance of a pic when you have chance to show it connected john?

just seen how it fits on, overlooked the diagram showing you. Nice bit of kit. I will book mark it for future once i am used to the camera, walk b4 run as they say. 

[shirva]

wouldn't be iur style steve..instructions what instructions lol..

[bomberbaz]

I have actually read the instructions for the PD1 but I freely admit instructions aren't my strong point prefering to learn on the hoof as they say