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My 1st PC build for AP/pic&video editing

tingting44

By tingting44
in Discussions - Software

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tingting44

tingting44

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hi guys ive been trying to put together the parts to build my 1st ever PC desktop, needles to say its been a steep learning curve and ive not even got the parts to build yet lol, its been over 10 years since i had a desktop and that was a pre built one, im quite looking forward to building it tho and getting to know the ins and outs. Ive been getting lots of help on the OC website but would just like to double check with you AP guys if this will be suitable for DSO stacking, as my current notepad (1GB ram) can not even stack 5 DSO subs without crashing :(

here is my list i will be ordering next week

YOUR BASKET

1 x Intel Core i7-4770K 3.50GHz (Haswell) Socket LGA1150 Processor - Retail £275.99

1 x Patriot Viper "Black Mamba" Generation 3 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 PC3-17000C11 2133MHz Dual Channel Kit (PV316G213C1K) £119.99

1 x Gigabyte Z87-D3HP Intel Z87 (Socket 1150) DDR3 ATX Motherboard £109.99

1 x Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-Bit - OEM (GFC-02050) £83.99

1 x Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache - OEM (ST2000DM001) HDD £74.99

1 x BitFenix Ronin Tower Case - Black £69.95

1 x Antec High Current Gamer 520W '80 Plus Bronze' Power Supply £59.99

1 x OcUK 24x DVD±RW SATA ReWriter (Black) - OEM £19.99

Total : £828.97 (includes shipping : £11.75).

CP-471-IN_60.jpg MY-066-PA_60.jpg MB-437-GI_60.jpg SW-127-MS_60.jpg HD-255-SE_60.jpg CA-129-BX_60.jpg CA-147-AN_60.jpg CD-003-OK_60.jpg

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Daddystu

Daddystu

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That's a pretty powerful system! Will overclock well too. Is it suitable for AP purposes? Well its suitable for anything i'd say especially with a decent graphics card thrown in (and an SSD). Far in excess of what is required for AP IMO. I'd suggest upping the PSU to 730W or higher for future proofing against upgrades ie graphics cards. 520W does seem low for such a powerful system. Remember, if you are overclocking it don't save on the cooler. you may want to go liquid or high end air with push-pull fan config.

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AlexB67

AlexB67

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You should have no bother with that, mind you I have never done any imaging, but encoding videos, similar sort of processing involved I am confident you are well set. You got plenty speed and memory there. One thing I would say, if you are going to OC make sure have bought adequate cooling fans and create good airflow, ( that does mean having too many fans, common mistake, but good air flow )

For the CPU you will want more than just the stock fan, the stock fan will for do a mild OC but not much more. I have mine OCd from the stock 3.5 up to 4.8HGz, but I do have a mammoth of a CPU fan and cooling block and a giant case for that kind of thing. The case you have should be fine though, just make sure cables are out of the way and cooling is good on all parts, including RAM.

I assume you are using the onboard graphics card, so in that case important there is good flow over the board as well, as I see no GPU listed, that will help in a way with overall system temperatures. I have two GPUs stacked in my case and they are big, take a lot of space, and when stressed they heat the whole system also, you are not going to have that issue, BUT, doing constant processing such as encoding or procesing at a constant rate, things involving a lot of arithmetic, will heat RAM and CPU, probably even more compared to some games or 3D graphics stuff.

BTW, you do not have to overclock and go all out straight away, the stock speed is already good for the kind of thing you want to do anyway, but something you may wish to do after a while and learn about. Easy to badly do an overclock and significantly shorten lifetime of components when it is not done right. Though the chips/boards are getting easier to do that with, it is hard to go drastically wrong anyway.

Nice bit of kit, and food luck with it :)

edit: sorry for repeating Daddystu already said some things while I was typing, though I'd say air flow these days with that system you can do plenty OC anyway, you don't have to go liquid ( to a point ) you can easily do 4.2 - 4.5 GHz with air and good fans.

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Daddystu

Daddystu

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edit: sorry for repeating Daddystu already said some things while I was typing, though I'd say air flow these days with that system you can do plenty OC anyway, you don't have to go liquid ( to a point ) you can easily do 4.2 - 4.5 GHz with air and good fans.

I guess i'd agree that a 4.2 is achievable on stock cooler with good system fan setup but if you want to go higher (using voltage adjustments) you'll need at least a very good after market air cooler. some of the stock coolers are very bad and HWMonitor will show excess socket temps when running for example prime95 or folding tests. I also agree that the OP would not have to overclock this rig to meet his requirements still it'd be a shame to have such a setup and not overclock it... to me anyway :)
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tingting44

tingting44

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That's a pretty powerful system! Will overclock well too. Is it suitable for AP purposes? Well its suitable for anything i'd say especially with a decent graphics card thrown in (and an SSD). Far in excess of what is required for AP IMO. I'd suggest upping the PSU to 730W or higher for future proofing against upgrades ie graphics cards. 520W does seem low for such a powerful system. Remember, if you are overclocking it don't save on the cooler. you may want to go liquid or high end air with push-pull fan config.

Thanks buddy, sounds like im on the right path then :) yes ive read a little bit about over clocking, but dam it looks very complicated and im a bit wary of it being able to damage your system :( yes i was going to use the onboard graphics as ive all ready gone wayyy over budget lol this build was at first suppose to be £400-£500 lol :( but in future if needed i will add a GPU and i wll 1000% be investing in an SSD to run my O/S and programs etc they look SWEEEEET. Good idea on the PSU i will really consider that as the last thing i want is it to go POOF and take some of my components with it, anything you would recommend from OC mate. Also will be getting an upgraded cooler in future but just need to get my head around all this stuff for now. There is programs that monitor temps right, to make sure nothing is heating up, soo much im trying to take in at the moment its unreal, thanks for your feedback and help :)

You should have no bother with that, mind you I have never done any imaging, but encoding videos, similar sort of processing involved I am confident you are well set. You got plenty speed and memory there. One thing I would say, if you are going to OC make sure have bought adequate cooling fans and create good airflow, ( that does mean having too many fans, common mistake, but good air flow )

For the CPU you will want more than just the stock fan, the stock fan will for do a mild OC but not much more. I have mine OCd from the stock 3.5 up to 4.8HGz, but I do have a mammoth of a CPU fan and cooling block and a giant case for that kind of thing. The case you have should be fine though, just make sure cables are out of the way and cooling is good on all parts, including RAM.

I assume you are using the onboard graphics card, so in that case important there is good flow over the board as well, as I see no GPU listed, that will help in a way with overall system temperatures. I have two GPUs stacked in my case and they are big, take a lot of space, and when stressed they heat the whole system also, you are not going to have that issue, BUT, doing constant processing such as encoding or procesing at a constant rate, things involving a lot of arithmetic, will heat RAM and CPU, probably even more compared to some games or 3D graphics stuff.

BTW, you do not have to overclock and go all out straight away, the stock speed is already good for the kind of thing you want to do anyway, but something you may wish to do after a while and learn about. Easy to badly do an overclock and significantly shorten lifetime of components when it is not done right. Though the chips/boards are getting easier to do that with, it is hard to go drastically wrong anyway.

Nice bit of kit, and food luck with it :)

edit: sorry for repeating Daddystu already said some things while I was typing, though I'd say air flow these days with that system you can do plenty OC anyway, you don't have to go liquid ( to a point ) you can easily do 4.2 - 4.5 GHz with air and good fans.

Thanks for your feedback also mate, taking everything on board :) everyone i speak to recommend's overclocking looool, its soo scary tho, i think if i dont need to do it and am happy with the system then i probably wont overclock i think as i reallly dont like the sound of it lowering the life of components and damaging stuff :( i was reading the beginners guide to clocking on OC and a lot of it seems foreign lol let alone the advanced guide loool :(

thanks will 100% be investing in a beefy cpu cooler once my bank has recovered from this buy, and yes i have fell in love with the case, its blooming insane how many cases are to choose from out there, it was by far the hardest and longest choice to make.

Yes was going to use the onboard graphics card as im not interested in gaming at all so i will make sure to have good air flow across the mobo, how ever i will only have the two 120mm fans for now that come with the case till i can afford more, i know there is programs to monitor temps, does it alert you if you start to get too hot tho? this is another thing that scares me, cooking my nice new build :(

thanks for the good luck i think im going to need it lol

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AlexB67

AlexB67

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CPUs of the type you have will have a failsafe for overheating, they'll just throttle back on speed when that happens, but at the same voltage regulation and overclocking has to be done with care. The automated overclocking facilities provided by software give you a overclock for sure, and will probably be stable enough if you do not push too far, but the voltages are often on the liberal side and that is what with time can shorten lifetime, and where manual tweaking comes in ( and a lot of testing to make sure you know it is stable).

By default the turbo mode is often on anyway in BIOS, that overclocks to 3.9 Hz or so already when the machine is under load. You do not have to worry as long as system stays cool enough using that out of the box, or you can set it to standard and the 3.5 GHz limit will be strictly adhered to.

The BIOS will have settings in there so you can setup temperature cutoffs for the system to reboot, or shutdown or whatever you want to do should they be exceeded anyway. The PSU you had listed is enough but if you get a beefy graphics card later, the 720 watt may be a better choice. Thing to wach out for again in a PSU is the design and stability. PSUs can be strange things sometimes, you can pay a lot, they can be poor, sometimes you can get bargains that are actually quite good, for that best to read a few reviews of them by hardware experts who test them out. Power output is not everything but the design ( what voltages/current is supplied on the rails ) and how steady it is, if it does not fluctuate too much. This only becomes an issue when you are dealing with heavy graphics cards and heavy overclocking usually, or if the PSU is underpowered for the system to start with on one or more parts, or if it is just a poor PSU.

A I said above I have a heavy overclock two graphics cards, and an 850 watt supply, and it does the job no bother at all, the first PSU you listed would do. PSUs are easy to take out or replace anyway later. If you want to make sure and future proof for a graphics card you may want to get the bigger PSU, but note that only heavy/big GPUs eat up power ( and only when under load anyway ). If not interested in 3D or games you can buy a smaller one, it will be sufficient for everything else apart from games/3D.

Graphics card are also very good for things like number crunching if you have apps that make use of them but this is specialist stuff. Most of the astro software and stuff mentioned here, as far as I am aware run on CPU anyway and do not utilise the features of modern GPUs ( such as CUDA and OpenCL) but other specialist scientific software (usually in-house or specialist packages ) can do so when computer time becomes everything.

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tingting44

tingting44

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thanks alex for that veryy detailed info mate, thats good i can adjust the pc to turn off in BIOS at a certain temp incase it does overheat :)

i certainly wont be getting 2 GPU's, maybe 1 in the long future if i require one but i can say about 80% i will not be using any 3D programs or gaming so maybe ill stick with the origninal choice of the 520w psu...

once im familiar and use to my system i think i will look into overclocking, got plenty of stuff to learn before even thinking about OC'ing tho :)

thanks for all your help and advice, its most helpful to such a pc noob like me :) hats off to you all :D

edit, just come across this BEAST! thats insane lol

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-029-CS

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AlexB67

AlexB67

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For video work I would seriously look at adding a SSD as a temp drive for use during processing or even use it as your primary boot disk. Using a single HD means you will get a bottleneck reading/writing to the same HD

it would help for sure, but if too costly one workaround that I have used at various times, though can imagine it is a bit involving when getting started with PCs is to convert some RAM to a temporary drive. Since he's got 16, 4 - 8 could be used as a RAM disk ( if that is enough size for the scratch/temp files ( for video editing it may not be). Of course I should stress it is not good for permanent storage, once the PC is switched off data is lost. There is a workaround for that too, but you may be waiting a long time for the PC to switch off while it writes all that stuff to an actual hard drive, and should there be a power cut whilst writing data is gone anyway ( Unless that drive already happens to be an SSD you are writing to it will be much faster, in which case you'd probably not use the technique anyway ). For that reason I would not often recommend it, unless you are clear and know why you are doing it. RAM disks are perfect for temporary files, not only that, it will be quicker still compared to an SSD if you can get your stuff to work with it, often much quicker.

A highly underrated underutilised technique not many seem to use or want to use, but admittedly can be fiddly in some cases.

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tingting44

tingting44

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For video work I would seriously look at adding a SSD as a temp drive for use during processing or even use it as your primary boot disk. Using a single HD means you will get a bottleneck reading/writing to the same HD

yeah i will be adding an SSD after my bank recovers from this buy, id like to partition the SSD, 1 part for O/S and programs and the other part as a temp drive and leave the mech HHD solely for storage, if thats how it works lol, thats what im thinking in my head lol

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Photosbykev

Photosbykev

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yeah i will be adding an SSD after my bank recovers from this buy, id like to partition the SSD, 1 part for O/S and programs and the other part as a temp drive and leave the mech HHD solely for storage, if thats how it works lol, thats what im thinking in my head lol

That would work, a 200Gb SSD, 100Gb for the OS and the other 100Gb as temp storage

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tingting44

tingting44

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great :D as some times what i have thought would work in my head would not lol, thats a plan then :)

one more thing say i get win 7 OEM version where you can only install once, if i installed it on my HDD would i then be able to install it on my SSD once ive saved up for it? or would i need to buy another version of win 7 OEM to do another install on the SSD?

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Psychobilly

Psychobilly

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If it won't automatically authenticate after hardware changes the it will usually be sorted using the phone based activation service... just don't do it from a mobile as it is an 08xx number and the whole process will cost you a few quid...

Peter...

Sent from my GT-P7300 using Tapatalk 4

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Psychobilly

Psychobilly

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In theory it's easier to move with only one in use at a time of course... and you can get tech support from microsoft... You also get the 32 and 64 bit versios but can only use one or the other... You realky want to be using 64bit OS's if you want to use all the memory available..

I use oem versions... I have just bought a copy of Win7x64 Ultra SP1 OEM... while you can still get it at a reasonable price...

Peter...

Sent from my GT-P7300 using Tapatalk 4

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tingting44

tingting44

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Thats a nice list you got going there. One thing that you dont want to go cheap on is the video card.

thanks mate, what do you mean by video card? do u mean GPU? i have not even heard about a video card being mentioned.....please dont say ive missed something lol :(

In theory it's easier to move with only one in use at a time of course... and you can get tech support from microsoft...

I use oem versions... I have just bought a copy of Win7x64 Ultra SP1 OEM... while you can still get it at a reasonable price...

Peter...

Sent from my GT-P7300 using Tapatalk 4

thanks peter, so where did you get your OEM win 7 from mate? if i have to get retail version i will, but by the sounds of it i will be ok transferring win7 OEM from my hdd to my SSD once i get it, be it a phone call to microsoft, so think i will go with OEM then.

i will be using win8 trial version for 3 months any hoo to give me a chance to recover from this buy so it will prob be in 2 or 3 months till i buy a copy of win 7 OEM

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nmoushon

nmoushon

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thanks mate, what do you mean by video card? do u mean GPU? i have not even heard about a video card being mentioned.....please dont say ive missed something lol :(

video card = graphics card = GPU

Sorry must be a US thing to call it a video/graphics card.

It will help run PS/PI really smoothly. Which is what gets under my skin the fastest when programs dont run smoothly.

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tingting44

tingting44

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I tend to use overclockers.co.uk... for my PC components...

A decent video card with the right software can dramatically speed up image and video processing... it does require app support for either CUDA or OpenCL...

Sent from my GT-P7300 using Tapatalk 4

dam i have missed something then :( i will look up on video cards :(

video card = graphics card = GPU

Sorry must be a US thing to call it a video/graphics card.

It will help run PS/PI really smoothly. Which is what gets under my skin the mastest when programs dont run smoothly.

ahhh loool, yeah i will be sticking with onboard GPU, im not interested in any single/dual GPU setup as not into gaming/3D programs etc, dont count me on this lol but going to see how i get on with this spec for now as i got so much to learn

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