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Thinking about this scope.. (Skywatcher Heritage 130p Flextube)


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I use mine with a small folding alloy stool from the ground, we have no garden table and a narrow deck hiding from street lamps so have just got an alloy height adjustable shower stool to sit the heritage on, just need to use a spade bit and make a hole for the central nut on the dob base to poke through the seat before I can report on success of idea. RDF is ok to use just use right eye and then less contortions are needed.

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Thank you all for the advice I have listened and will take every bit of info in! :)

I plan to do some Lunar viewing also will I need a moon filter? If so could anyone point me towards one of these also thanks. :)

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The moon Filter will help to increase contrast and the moon won't be as awefully bright... With the 30mm eyepiece I have thought I was going going blind, as the eye Adaption is ruined, One eye unable to see in the dark... ;-)

There are some filters that enhance nebula observation, UHC s, Seben clr, but they only darken marginally (good with that aperture) and let more light pass then the nd or green moon filters.

If you have some money left over after buying two, three eyepieces, go for a moon filter. But it's not mandatory.

The green, blue one's are 8€ incl. Shipping at eBay, the grey/nd filters 15€, and imho due to the moon's high contrast even the cheap-ish one's are okey.

Alternatively you could cut out a circle on a piece of cardboard, thus reducing aperture (but also resolution) and use it on the moon.

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moon filters are like marmite....you either like or you don't. personally I don't. I'd suggest trying the moon without first, it'll seem very bright at first but it won't damage your eye (THE SAME CANNOT BE SAID FOR THE SUN). After a minute or two you probably won't even notice the brightness. It will ruin your dark adaption though but if the moons full you'll probably not bother with nebula/galaxy hunting anyway. The main thing to remember in this wonderful hobby is ENJOY yourself. otherwise it's just pointless :)

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A cheap way to try moon observing with a filter is wear sunglasses. Sounds daft but I do that when using my bins and it helps take the edge off the glare but still see detail.

Course it depends how dark your glasses are and how cool you want to look wearing sunglasses at night ;)

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A cheap way to try moon observing with a filter is wear sunglasses. Sounds daft but I do that when using my bins and it helps take the edge off the glare but still see detail.

Course it depends how dark your glasses are and how cool you want to look wearing sunglasses at night ;)

Ha you're right. But I do that my wife will think I've lost my few remaining marbles!

Barry

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I don't use a moon filter with the Heritage. That being said I don't know how it would be with one since I don't own one. I don't have an issue with brightness myself though and perfectly happy looking at the moon without a filter. It is true that once you look at the moon you dark adaptation will be gone for some time, but those nights that the Moon is really bright, as it was last night for example, the sky would not be really fit to look at anything else anyway.

I'd personally would recommend you wait, try the scope and see if you are happy looking at the moon without one. It is always very tempting to buy a,b, and c, with a first order, but you may find that what you buy is not what you need. Sometimes with certain items, and in particular a moon filter can be a very personal thing whether you feel you need one or not. On the other hand, a red torch may be a handy item that pretty much everyone will find useful, more than likely.

Good luck with whatever you end up purchasing :)

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Ha you're right. But I do that my wife will think I've lost my few remaining marbles!

Barry

You are standing outside in the dark looking at sparkly things in the sky ---- your wife probably thinks you've lost them all already, she aint going to notice the sunglasses.

Plus, saves money! (well for the next astro spend;) )

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Thanks for your help everyone I have decide on this scope now and will be ordering it tomorrow. :) Just one more question does the scope come with Allen keys at all and if it doesn't what size would I need to order in the hope it will fit my scope? I'm just worried if the scope isn't aligned when I get it. I have the Rigel Aline Collimation Cap already just need the scope! :) Thanks for everyone's help in this thread though it is much appreciated!

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Thanks for your help everyone I have decide on this scope now and will be ordering it tomorrow. :) Just one more question does the scope come with Allen keys at all and if it doesn't what size would I need to order in the hope it will fit my scope? I'm just worried if the scope isn't aligned when I get it. I have the Rigel Aline Collimation Cap already just need the scope! :) Thanks for everyone's help in this thread though it is much appreciated!

No alan keys come with the scope, just order a smaller set, they are really cheap and one of them will fit, it is of the order of a couple of millimeters. I can check later if you like what the exact size is, it is a really small one. You need a phillips screw driver too.

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No alan keys come with the scope, just order a smaller set, they are really cheap and one of them will fit, it is of the order of a couple of millimeters. I can check later if you like what the exact size is, it is a really small one. You need a phillips screw driver too.

If you could that would be fantastic what size screw driver would I need also? :)

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I just checked my set and it says 2mm for the alan key, that being said I have a feeling I dropped the 2.5mm somewhere as it was missing, and it may have been the one I used ( small chance ). To test it anyway I tried the 2mm and it fitted. I was able to use it on the scope, so I am 90% sure it is what I would have used. Unless the 2.5mm is a snugger fit and the 2mm has a small amount of slip, but it's unlikely.

Just want to make sure you do not end up with the wrong thing. If you want to make sure so could always get both :)

Places like lidl I got a whole tool set for 5 pounds one time, and it works great and and it is solid too. The Alan keys and screw drivers I use are all from that one set I use on the scope. It is very easy to overpay in other places like tool shops. Unless you really want the solid stuff made from expensive materials for longer lasting use, or when you have to apply a lot of force on a daily basis.

For the Phillips screw driver, it is a bit less critical, as it is tapered so a variety would do, as long as the end bit of the tapered head fits in the screw, but it cannot be too fat. On mine it says it is of type PZ1, this defines how tapered it is ( I think ). I measured it anyway and it is just a tiny bit under 5mm in diameter where the tapering ends, but expect it was sold as a 5mm.

Something like this is what I have as part of a set

http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/black-and-decker-x61043-screwdriver-bits-3-pz1-pz2-and-pz3

The PZ1 5mm works perfectly for the centre screw for the secondary mirror. But something near that size I am sure would do give or take. I tried one or two in my set and they all worked as well, as well some other screw drivers lying around.

Good luck. If you have my luck the secondary mirror was pointing the wrong way, it must have had a good knock in transport :D

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I just checked my set and it says 2mm for the alan key, that being said I have a feeling I dropped the 2.5mm somewhere as it was missing, and it may have been the one I used ( small chance ). To test it anyway I tried the 2mm and it fitted. I was able to use it on the scope, so I am 90% sure it is what I would have used. Unless the 2.5mm is a snugger fit and the 2mm has a small amount of slip, but it's unlikely.

Just want to make sure you do not end up with the wrong thing. If you want to make sure so could always get both :)

Places like lidl I got a whole tool set for 5 pounds one time, and it works great and and it is solid too. The Alan keys and screw drivers I use are all from that one set I use on the scope. It is very easy to overpay in other places like tool shops. Unless you really want the solid stuff made from expensive materials for longer lasting use, or when you have to apply a lot of force on a daily basis.

For the Phillips screw driver, it is a bit less critical, as it is tapered so a variety would do, as long as the end bit of the tapered head fits in the screw, but it cannot be too fat. On mine it says it is of type PZ1, this defines how tapered it is ( I think ). I measured it anyway and it is just a tiny bit under 5mm in diameter where the tapering ends, but expect it was sold as a 5mm.

Something like this is what I have as part of a set

http://www.powertool...pz1-pz2-and-pz3

The PZ1 5mm works perfectly for the centre screw for the secondary mirror. But something near that size I am sure would do give or take. I tried one or two in my set and they all worked as well, as well some other screw drivers lying around.

Good luck. If you have my luck the secondary mirror was pointing the wrong way, it must have had a good knock in transport :D

Thanks very much I will pop around a few DIY stores tomorrow and have a gander to see if I can find anything, thanks once again for your help! :)

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I've got the AZ-4 and the Heritage. They work great together, with the tripod at full extension I can actually put the eyepiece above my eye level (I'm 6 foot).

If you've got any more questions, feel free to ask :).

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Heresy!

Actually - does the lack of tube rings present a problem? What angle does the eyepiece end up at?

Not at all Andy, it's exactly the same configuration as the supplied AZ mount except it's just (a lot) higher up.

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