Tutorial for EOS Backyard or APT?

[emadmoussa]

Hola,

Looking for a kind of detailed video/script tutorial for either EOS Backyard or APT. Any out there?

Thanks!

IM

[SniffTheGlove]

I only use APT. I don't know of any tutorial but the docs are good.

APT is very easy to use, if you need any help?

[emadmoussa]

I only use APT. I don't know of any tutorial but the docs are good.

APT is very easy to use, if you need any help?

Thank you for the offer. I downloaded the free version to play with. The problem I don't know how to test the functionality indoors...any suggestions?

P.S. I used Canon 1100D to test.

[Yoddha]

IM, put your lens and try to simulate what you want to do under the sky Of course don't make exposures of 10min...

If you have questions, just ask

[emadmoussa]

IM, put your lens and try to simulate what you want to do under the sky Of course don't make exposures of 10min...

If you have questions, just ask

Thanks, Ivo. I'll fiddle with it tomorrow. Fantastic images you've got there -- All using APT?

[Yoddha]

Many thanks IM! I'm happy that you like them

I'm the author of APT and use it for every image I make APT is built for action...

[emadmoussa]

I am currently using free limited version, just wondering what lacks in it?

You know, limited version justvget my head around the software..

[Yoddha]

The free version has everything you need to control the camera plus many extras developed especially for astro imaging I had said it many times, but it is my contribution to our community.

In the full one there are few more things, take a look in the APT's site for details. I don't want to advertise the full version by any way because will violate the forum rules.

[emadmoussa]

Thanks a lot, Ivo. You've done great work there.

[Yoddha]

Many thanks! I'm trying to give my best

[emadmoussa]

Many thanks! I'm trying to give my best

Hi Ivo, it seems that my patience couldn't sustain me for long. I went through the software earlier and I think I'm starting to get my head around it - basically I took snapshots and long exposures with the cap on. The user interface is friendly and straightforward, and at first sight I can see the potential of the software - pretty good job you've done there. I was trying to achieve mirror lock-up, I understand there's a pseudo-lock-up in the application, isn't there? For the life of me, couldn't figure it out.

[Yoddha]

Hi IM,

1100D can't make true mirror locking, so the only way is a simulation. The good news is that Canon made their homework and this model doesn't suffer from amp-glow. So you just have to select anti-vibration pause to be greater than 0s

[emadmoussa]

Hi IM,

1100D can't make true mirror locking, so the only way is a simulation. The good news is that Canon made their homework and this model doesn't suffer from amp-glow. So you just have to select anti-vibration pause to be greater than 0s

Much appreciated, Ivo. Thanks! Will give it a shot.

[SniffTheGlove]

Start off doing Darks and Bias to get the idea.

You could start to build a library for yourself if you want to save time later as doing Darks after a Light session can take a long time.

Do Darks during the day, just make sure the lens cap is on and maybe even put the camera in a dark box or cover it to keep any light from entering.

Set up a Dark run in the editing plan. You will need to do a set for each iso you will use (mainly iso800 or iso1600). Do 25 exposures for each.

So for example Darks, take a note of the ambient temp (for example 0 Degrees)then do 25 exposures @ iso800 for 30 seconds in RAW format then group these images into a seperate folder marked as 0_Degrees\iso800\30s

Now do another run this time for 60 seconds and place these into a new folder 0_Degrees\iso800\60s

Now do another run this time for 120 seconds and place these into a new folder 0_Degrees\iso800\120s

Now do another run this time for 240 seconds and place these into a new folder 0_Degrees\iso800\240s

You slowly build up your library in increments of 5 degrees temp, this way when you come to do your AP you will not have to spend extra hours doing darks right after your lights.

When you create the dark plans I found it easier to alter the apt.xml file in the APT folder to make changes to the plans, it was quicker and easier.

[emadmoussa]

Start off doing Darks and Bias to get the idea.

You could start to build a library for yourself if you want to save time later as doing Darks after a Light session can take a long time.

Do Darks during the day, just make sure the lens cap is on and maybe even put the camera in a dark box or cover it to keep any light from entering.

Set up a Dark run in the editing plan. You will need to do a set for each iso you will use (mainly iso800 or iso1600). Do 25 exposures for each.

So for example Darks, take a note of the ambient temp (for example 0 Degrees)then do 25 exposures @ iso800 for 30 seconds in RAW format then group these images into a seperate folder marked as 0_Degrees\iso800\30s

Now do another run this time for 60 seconds and place these into a new folder 0_Degrees\iso800\60s

Now do another run this time for 120 seconds and place these into a new folder 0_Degrees\iso800\120s

Now do another run this time for 240 seconds and place these into a new folder 0_Degrees\iso800\240s

You slowly build up your library in increments of 5 degrees temp, this way when you come to do your AP you will not have to spend extra hours doing darks right after your lights.

When you create the dark plans I found it easier to alter the apt.xml file in the APT folder to make changes to the plans, it was quicker and easier.

I'm not sure I know what darks are for...kind of a photography newbie her

[SniffTheGlove]

OK.

When you take a long exposure using a digital camera you will get noise in the image from the sensor and the electronics plus amp glow.

To make your image look better there are a few things you can do to remove the noise, this is using Darks, Flats and Bias.

http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/theory.htm

If you do long exposure, then you need to to do darks,flats and bias.

[emadmoussa]

OK.

When you take a long exposure using a digital camera you will get noise in the image from the sensor and the electronics plus amp glow.

To make your image look better there are a few things you can do to remove the noise, this is using Darks, Flats and Bias.

http://deepskystacke...lish/theory.htm

If you do long exposure, then you need to to do darks,flats and bias.

Great read, Sean. Converted to PDF and uploaded onto my tablet for reading en route to and from work. Thank you!!! It seems like the same principle of layering to enhance images and eliminate imperfections - I do that on daily basis in Photoshop and Illustrator . I can see the massive difference this technique creates in astro-photography.

[SniffTheGlove]

Thank you!!! It seems like the same principle of layering to enhance images and eliminate imperfections - I do that on daily basis in Photoshop and Illustrator . I can see the massive difference this technique creates in astro-photography.

Yeah, once DSS has popped out a registered and stacked image, then the next step to to give it the photoshop tweak on cureves and levels and other stuff. Not done that myself yet but a good tutorial is on Dion's site over at AstronomyShed http://www.astronomyshed.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=19