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1100D cold finger sensor cooling with TEC and water cooling


Gina

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Been sorting out holding the Peltiers in place and applying pressure to maintain good contact. The former by plastic strips and pegs in the copper plate and the latter being applied by the camera body.

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Been working on my camera cooling system. Have cut out 2 copper plates, one to go between the Peltiers and the other in the display opening in place of the plastic window. I've marked out one for cutting out the square for the water block and the other showing where the smaller TEC was going. So far so good but... I cut the hole in the wrong one!!! :) So I'm going to have to cut a new piece to go between the TECs :) Having a rest now and composing myself! :)

It's turned warm here and I'm not used to it and overheating a bit.

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Thermal paste, didn't recognise it, I have some tubes of heatsink compound (as we use to call it many years ago) but that is white, need to check if it is conductive.

Been reading up and it seems that stacking devices also reduces the thermal stress seen by a device between its hot and cold side by lowering the difference across each device. So also good for reliability and durability.

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Do you need a plate between the tec's? all the stacked ones I see for sale don't have anything between them.

I believe when device sizes don't match it can help prevent hot spots, device stress and make things more efficient.

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Yes :) There would be a large area on the cold side of the bigger TEC that would only be collecting condensation and doing nothing to help the cooling. And yes, I shall have a digital temperature sensor on the intermediate plate. It also makes it easier to hold the TECs in position.

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Well, I've got the Peltiers, intermediate copper plate, plastic positioning frame for the 25mm square Peltier and pegs to locate the 40mm one all installed in the camera. The wires from the small Peltier come out through holes in the plastic frame and dividing plate. But I'm not going to be able to get it finished this evening for imaging if the clouds stay away. Be a while before dark yet though.

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Extraordinary job Gina. You have redefined DSLR cooling. Interesting to see how the additional Peltier performs.
Thank you :) I'm hoping to get it finished today and start testing.
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I think the camera is finished - still have the PWM controlled to make. Here are a couple of photos. The second one shows the new back plate fastened onto the camera with screws, plate and washers together with connector block for Peltiers and 1-wire for the digital temperature sensors. The black wires go to the MOSFET TEC controller, red to +5v and +12v and the orange + orange/white, 1-wire data and ground.

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That looks great, just think how much a one shot colour cooled CCD of 12mp would cost, you have a real bargain. Looking forward to the images.
Thank you :)
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That looks absolutely brilliant, will you be offering a modification service:D
Thank you :) I think it would come out too expensive to be practical for people - it was a lot of work.
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"Houston - we have a problem!" I'm getting "Err 30" when testing in EOS Utils :) I've looked it up and the Canon web site implies it's something to do with the shutter. The camera is working fine manually - this problem only shows with USB. The Canon site also suggests this could be a PC Registry problem but it's the same with two different computers (netbook and desktop P4) which rules that out.

I have dismantled the camera again as far as the main board. ie. taken the cooling part off the cold finger and removed the camera back. No change - it's still misbehaving :(I now thinking what to do next. I guess I'll dismantle it further and swap sensor assemblies then reassemble.

Meanwhile, anyone any suggestions? Please?

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TECs are off.

Just put the normal back on complete with display and controls. That says Err 30 too and although the shutter operates it doesn't actually take a photo. Live view works fine.

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Only thing I can think of now is to strip it down more, removing the main board and image assembly and having a good close inspection. I can swap imaging assemblies again and try that. Or maybe main boards.

At least I shan't be missing any AP tonight - too much cloud. If that's any consolation :)

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Are all the ribbon connectors seated firmly and not damaged. Is the sensor grounded. The shutter will work, but open circuit on the sensor.
Thanks for the suggestion - it gives me an idea :) Sensor works in live view though :)
It's looking great.
Thank you :)
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Stripped camera down and swapped the imaging assembly. Cleaned all connectors with IPA and put it all back together except the back part. Not working now!! :) But it looks like one of the power ribbons isn't quite right in so I expect it's that. Operation postponed for lunch...

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