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Plain motor vs GOTO tracking


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Hello, I have a (newbie) question about tracking. If I add tracking motors (RA + Dec) to an EQ5 I 'll be able to track but will the tracking be better if I instead add the GOTO motors/computer (with a 150p or 200p mounted)?

Same question for the HEQ5, are the syntrak version better than the plain HEQ5 (with motors) and will the HEQ5 synscan be even better?

Kind regards

Thomas

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Its a good question and one that Im not sure about. The only thing that would make it better is if the GoTo or syntrek used better stepper motors and control boards. Being a numpty when it comes to things like this Im not sure if this is the case.

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Hello Thomas

Can't answer all your questions but can tell you that the motors in a Syntrek and a Synscan are exactly the same. The only difference between a Syntrek and Synscan is the hand contoller with the synscan having full GoTo functions (with the object database, alignment etc) whilst the syntrek has slewing control and basic tracking control.

If you intend on hooking up your mount to a computer for imaging purposes then you can use EQMOD to do all the Goto and alignment stuff, therefore a Synscan system is not needed (and money saved on the mount).

Hope this helps

Jeremy

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Am I correct in thinking that the HEQ Syntrek can be upgraded to a Goto with the purchase of just the handset ?

If that's the case I'd personally go with the Syntrek, guide via computer (EQMOD) and save a couple of hundred pounds over the SynScan version.

You'll notice from my footer that I have a SynScan on EQ3-2. I had just the RA motor before but decided that I wanted something more interactive, since installation I have been visually catching up my messier list, having this facility at the mount (without a laptop present) is invaluable to begineers that want to get some value for money out of your equipment without all the techie stuff.

Setting up the Synscan for alignment is quite straight forward (once you've done it a few times). The RA process was far more manual.

I think it depends if you have a permanent setup or more mobile setup considerations plus your experience with computer software. Now I've figured out how to turn off the Level 5 beep on my SynScan ;) it's working for me now.

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Hi guys, thanks for you insights.

I am fairly familiar with computer software but not so familiar with making PA on a scope. I guess there is (at least) two sides to my question. One is if the motors/cogs etc are better on the syntrek/synscan but also (might be more important for me): Will the GOTO make up for a less than perfect PA or will it assist in PA. )

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According to the SynScan manual you point the telescope 'roughly' at the NCP or SCP, you then move onto 1,2 or 3 star alignments to fine-tune pointing accuracy. Motors and gears are not always the same quality so SynScan offers Pointing Accuracy Enhancement (PAE), sometimes called Periodic Error Correction (PEC) to improve accuracy.

With the RA and DEC motors the PA will have to be more accurate to track, use of a polar scope and following a guide like Astro_Baby's will help.

Simple Polar Alignment for Beginners

I've done both and see value in each method. I guess it's down to how important and accurate PA is to you. Visual doesn't really need accurate PA, astrophotography definetely does.

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I'm dead keen to upgrade to a motorised mount myself and was wondering something similar. Is the laptop guiding software described above open source or do we have to pay for it? I'm keen to upgrade my whole set up and was thinking about a ten inch newt on a motorised mount plus DSLR for photography. I've never imaged before. Does this sound like i'm over reaching?

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I've never imaged before. Does this sound like i'm over reaching?

I think it's easy to over reach when you look at some of the amazing images on this very forum. Even with the best equipment in the world you still need patience and experience to turn out quality images.

From my perspective I'd say it's over stretching to take on learning the new mount, new dslr and new software all in one go ;)

I'm getting to the point where I think I'm nearly ready to do something similar and I've been getting ready for 2 years.

I bought my first scope, non-goto mount, 6" Celestron reflector 2 years ago. Bought and learnt everything about my Canon 450d dslr 1 year ago and upgraded to a SynScan goto kit about 1 week ago.

I suppose you could get everything in one go - I'm more about the walk as apposed to the run + I wanted to be sure that I'd stick with the hobby. Going outside during the winter when it's freezing cold to look up at the stars and get everything setup and put away takes some patience. Luckily I'm happy to say I absolutely love it.

Hopefully someone that's in a similar position will give some feedback on your plan.

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I'm dead keen to upgrade to a motorised mount myself and was wondering something similar. Is the laptop guiding software described above open source or do we have to pay for it? I'm keen to upgrade my whole set up and was thinking about a ten inch newt on a motorised mount plus DSLR for photography. I've never imaged before. Does this sound like i'm over reaching?

EQMOD is open source: EQMOD. With regard to the 10" newt .... well, wiser heads than me would probably advise against it, especially in the first instance. You may be better off with a decent refractor, flattener/reducer, camera, guidescope and guide camera, and motorized mount to cut your teeth on first.

Imaging with a big newt is possible, but it is fraught with frustration. I know. I've done it. That is not to say it cannot be done. There are many fine examples of images taken with big newts, it's just that it is .... well, a lot easier imaging with a frac. Especially I imagine, if you are just starting down the imaging path.

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Cheers Andy,

I've been in the hobby for several years but have strove to learn it from the ground up with a manual EQ mount. Thought i'd get a camera and some motors and have a go at imaging. I'm happy to take it easy and pick it up at a relaxed pace. Just need to know where best to put my limited funds ;)

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What are the pitfalls with newts as an imaging scope? ;)

I don't have much experience with fracs, but the imaging pitfalls with newts are: collimation (particularly on faster scopes) and coma (which can be corrected). Also, you get diffraction spikes from the spider vanes but I personally quite like these.

Newts don't suffer from Chromatic Aberration, unlike all but the very expensive (apo) refractors!

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Yes i quite like diffraction spikes too. Sounds like the major niggles aren't too drastic. I'm still very much in the mulling it over stage but by the looks of it a decent apo OTA costs roughly the same as a ten inch newt with motorised mount.

The newer Skywatcher Newts are designed to prime focus photography i believe so i'd probably plumb for one of those i think.

This is a tough one, I would love a good frac but my wallet may end up fatally wounded if i did

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I am also considering a refractor for my first scope but as far as I have read there are some (severe?) CA when using those for astrophotography. I can see that there are "minus violet" filters to remove some of the CA but how effective are such filters?

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If i do get a frac it won't be my first scope but my third. It'd be my first bought with astrophotography specifically in mind though. Still unsure though. I'm very familiar with newts Wouldn't it be nice to afford one of each? :smiley:

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