iwols

Hi all trying to pinch a bit of back focus to allow me to insert a rotator ,on the image arrowed do you think this would unscrew at the arrow thanks

17 minutes ago, astro mick said:

Hi.

Thanks for the comment.

You too have produced a very nice image  as well.But as you say the core is blown out.The answer is to take another set of images of the core alone.We are talking seconds here,you will have to experiment to see how long to expose for.Just aim for a nice detailed core.

You now have two sets of images, one of the long exposure image,and one of just the core.In photo-shop alighn the images.You will then go on to paste the core on top of the main image.

You will then apply a mask.

There are several videos on youtube showing this so have a look.

If you get stuck,get back in touch.

Mick.

Thanks mick been using pi but will give it a go when I find a tutorial, not used photo shop much cheers iwols

superb mick also just revisited this ,5 min subs RGB but core blown out any advice cheers....p.s. running man had just run off😄

the only other way would be to remove the reducer,is that a good swap?

hi all thinking that some point i may want to fit a rotator to my imaging train but dont think it is possible the rotator has a 19mm length but i can only go in another 12mm possibly and a possible couple of mm  as per image ,any suggestions guys??

21 hours ago, MartinB said:

Nice images from what I suspect is quite a low amount of data.  What I like is that your process has been sympthetic to the data you have and you have worked very well within those contraints.  The Ha colour is spot on, same for the stars.

How much imaging time do you need is a very good question and a long involved one to answer properly!  Here is a good article by Craig Stark https://www.cloudynights.com/articles/cat/column/fishing-for-photons/signal-to-noise-understanding-it-measuring-it-and-improving-it-part-1-r1895

Thanks each image has 30 mins of each channel 

Simply superb bet your well chuffed?

hi just a couple of quick processed images.How do you know where to stop with imaging time?

hi can anyone recommend me  a ha only target for tonight apart from the horses head thanks

turned out well ,the moon always amazing

thanks guys success i hope

hi just trying mosaics with panels but after calibration of my 2 panels in weightbatchpreprocessing i finish up with the below panels,very different in tones,using same darks and bias on both,any advice how to get the same tones before joining the panels,thanks

thanks wim really struggle with the processing side of things its either great or drab,watched so many videos but find they are using files i dont have or some other reason why i cant proceed with the tutorial,going to have to make an effort to get a basic workflow that works everytime,do you use flats,bias and darks at all?

Whats yours please

Hi does anyone have any raw fits rgb frames i could use to try my mosaic  techniques (or lack off) pref 2 or 4 frame thanks and the resulting image of what it should look like

hi all just about to try mosaics just wondered what your workflow is for lrgb imaging thanks

can iuse a different image that has all the sisters on ,plate solve it then use my manual rotation adjuster on my scope ,will nina alter the extra mosaics to suit my camera setup if that makes sense,thanks

this looks good but is the price justifiable,not sure.

https://pegasusastro.com/products/falcon-rotator/

1 hour ago, Jonk said:

This is the reason for 'needing' a rotator when doing mosaics...

The camera position didn't change here, so when aligning adjacent images, they must be rotated in software in order to correctly overlap.

One problem of not having a rotator, is if you don't have enough overlap, you could end up with gaps.

I've wondered about it, but for this images scale on a small refractor (3.2"pp on a Star 71) I couldn't fit a rotator in anyway.

Just make sure you have enough overlap to avoid gaps bwtween, and also when you do a final crop, to avoid losing some of the target.

Note this is a test mosaic using 4 x 30m ha subs, just to see how the final mosaic would look.

This was taken using SGP's mosaic feature, which only shows a flat grid, so not a final representation of how the frames go together. Actually, I'm not sure if adding a PA (pointing angle) to the settings will show the rotation in the wizard, (I'll try this next time).

that explains it exactly thanks

1 hour ago, tooth_dr said:

Moonlite do a nice focuser/rotator package

https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p9100_MoonLite-NiteCrawler-3-5--Rotating-Worm-Drive-Focuser-incl--Adaption.html

wow what a price thanks though

3 hours ago, tomato said:

Assuming you have an equatorial mount for AP, rotators are used to automate the rotation of your camera assembly to facilitate framing, especially for mosaics. They are expensive as they are engineered to rotate a significant mass precisely.

A lot of folks rotate their cameras by hand or keep them in a fixed position once initially aligned, but they are useful especially on remote set ups. They do add to the all up weight that your mount has to deal with.

My own view is I would rather spend that kind of money on a camera, filters or telescope.

fare comment

3 hours ago, michael8554 said:

I thought Rotaters were used to compensate for the Field Rotation on Alt/Az mounted imaging rigs ?

So I'm not sure why you need one on your HEQ5 ?

Do you have slight Field Rotation on your adjacent images due to poor Polar Alignment ?

I would use the Rotate function in PhotoShop etc.

Michael

mainly for mosaics cheers

wow some great comments here guys thanks

hi after first time trying to work mosaics out just wondered how good rotators are and why are they so expensive,any comments suggestions appreciated cheers