Ouroboros

…… and you are correct. Now why didn’t I think of that? The STF takes its setting from the image it is tracking. So I will now apply that to a histogram to fix the stretch. I haven’t been doing much or indeed any processing for a while and unfortunately my “forgetting curve” for Pixinsight is very steep. Thanks Scotty.

Is there a way to retrieve STF settings previously applied to a linear image when the STF process has now been closed? I’ve tried unsuccessfully to recreate the STF settings on a clone of the originally STF’d image. Pixinsight must “know” what the original STF settings are because the image has been saved, closed and reopened to appear on the screen with those original settings applied. They don’t seem to be in the header or history explorer data for the file. It’s no great shakes if this is not possible. I’ll just have to try harder to reproduce a pleasing stretch. I just thought someone might know. Cheers.

🤔 https://youtu.be/Wvx0esVGKwY?si=T8ZEb9T3cX3kc0rg

Nice one, @Paul Holdsworth. Is that with your 150P? You’re right, I think the centre is a tad blown out. Colour’s good though. Any mileage in revisiting the stretching of the image do you think?

PS. Sorry, forgot to add I hope your probs are solved quickly.

Thanks for posting this. I’m glad I spotted it. I actually dread Pixinsight updating for the very reasons you describe. I shall stay put with my current (stable) version.

Absolutely gorgeous. Lots of detail and lovely colours. I have never tried a mosaic, and know almost nothing about how it is done. I’m always slightly astonished that it appears to work so well. I naively suppose that even the slightest differences in conditions for each set of images would make it almost impossible to make the images meld as well as they obviously do. The wonders of software presumably - and skill in applying them.

…. and often, though not always, wrong. Usually the physics is the easy bit. Making it work. ie the engineering, is the tricky bit.

I agree. We only truly understand the world in scientific terms through scientific theories. All scientific observations or experimental results are ‘theory laden’ or, putting it less succinctly, only make sense in terms of an underlying scientific theory or explanation.

It’s a common form of optical aberration with Newtonian reflectors in which stars appear elongated in the corners of the image. Zoom in to your images and see what the stars look like towards the edges and corners. You can get coma correctors for Newtonians. Whether one is available for your telescope I’m not sure. I use the planetarium App SkySafari to look for suitable targets on a night. You can input your equipment for the app to display a rectangular field of view over the target to see if it fits.

OK. APS-C sized sensor then. Do you see coma in the stars towards the edge of your images with that scope? I do with my 200P.

The 510mm focal length (with reducer/flattener) and APS-C sized sensor is good for targets up to M31 galaxy (just) and the great nebula in Orion (easily). It has a field of view of 2.64° x 1.76°. It’s not good for really wide-field shots or specific targets like the Veil Nebulae, Heart and Soul Nebulae etc. You didn’t say what camera you have. I wonder a slightly shorter focal length might complement the 750mm fl of your SW150P rather better than the ED80. As for Lego Ninjago XD never heard of it, sorry. The Ouroborus is the ancient symbol of infinity, the cycle of life, eternal renewal etc. represented as a snake eating its tail. I feel sometimes I’m chasing my own tail.

My experience of using the Evostar 80ED plus reducer/flattener (you’ll need one of those) for imaging with APS-C sized sensors in DSLR and later a ZWO2600 OSC camera has been mainly good. The only real problem initially was with the focuser. It wasn’t beefy enough to support the weight of the reducer and camera when the scope was pointed at steeper angles. A bit of fettling on my part, and the addition of a SW motor drive cured that. If I was buying a scope of similar spec and price range now I’d look into more recent offerings like the scopes made by StellaMira for example.

Thanks, Ian.

Thanks @Adreneline & @Stuart1971 😀. I sent my concerns in an email to FLO and the reassuring reply suggested the sticky sliders might be down to an iPad screen sensitivity issue. This has been seen before apparently. Strange I hadn’t noticed it before with my other AAir. The problem seems slightly less obvious on my iPhone, which rather confirms the diagnosis. Fortunately once it’s set, it’s set. It might just take a few swipes to get there. As for voltages displayed they are best taken with a pinch of salt it seems. That 0.4V of yesterday on output four was displayed as 12V today. I also measured the external voltage at the input of the ASIair as 12V whilst the display showed Tge input voltage as 11.8V. I’m now really looking forward to getting to first light imaging with my new ASIair and new AM5 mount.

I read somewhere recently that early risers are less likely to suffer from depression than night owls who sleep in. I was wondering whether amateur astronomers as a group might defy that finding. They always seem to me to be a fairly buoyant, cheerful lot, yet a lot stay up late when the opportunity arises.

I have been putting my new ASIair Plus through its paces and have found an odd anomaly with the four voltage outputs. Firstly, the outputs are incredibly unwilling to be either switched on when off, or off when on. For example when I slide each slider across from Off position it turns green, and then as soon as I take my finger off the iPad screen it switches back to the Off position. In the end I managed to turn them all On, but now they are similarly resistant to being turned off. Secondly, I have noticed some odd things about the voltages measured. There’s a small discrepancy between the voltage displayed on Outputs 1, 2 & 3 i.e. 11.8V displayed and 12.03V measured. OK. No huge problem there. But on Output 4 I see 0.4V displayed and 12.03V measured - as per screen shot below. Thirdly when choosing Dew Heater I measure 12.03V at 100% output and 10.9V at 5% output, and values in between at intermediate outputs. I should add that the ASIair does power my ASI2600 camera and two dew heaters alright. Is what I’m seeing here consistent with what others see with their ASIair Plus?

I think I’ve cracked it. Simple really. It always is, eh? The newly downloaded App didn’t have access to the Local Network. I found this by comparing the Air’s App settings on my phone with those on my iPad. Thanks for people’s suggestions.

Yes.

I don’t think cache is an iPad thing. OK I might try the reset. I’m surprised it doesn’t need to be reactivated. How does it know it has been? Surely it’s like starting over?

I’ve done what is sometime described as force closing the App and that didn’t help. The other thing is to do a proper “power off” achieved by holding down the on/off button for five seconds. I always imagine that’s equivalent to the Microsoft switching on and off thing. It often does get iPad apps out of a pickle, but not in this case.

Hello Bosun21, Thanks! So do I. I’m sure it’s something simple. The problem started after I was stupid enough to delete and then reload the app. I have wondered whether resetting the ASIair to factory settings might sort it out. It would be kind of like starting from scratch. It would mean the ASIair having to be activated again.

I didn’t think baud rate applied over a WiFi connection.

Hello, I just acquired a new ASIair Plus and after initial success I am now having difficulty connecting it to my iPad. This is a replacement for my old ASIair Pro and, apart from the occasional connection blip, I have always used that successfully in the past. So I am not a complete novice. OK so initially I activated the new ASIair and succeeded in getting it connected to the App running on my iPad. All seemed to check out except I could not turn on the voltage outputs from the ASIair apart from the first one used to drive my ZWO camera. Just to be sure I switched to my old ASIair Pro and found I’d lost the ability to control the voltage outputs on that one too. As far as I can tell the 12V 5A power supply checks out OK. So I reasoned that the only common factor now is the App on my iPad. So I deleted the ASIair App on my iPad and re-downloaded it. It was then that I found I could no longer connect to either ASIair. What I am seeing is as follows: I connect my iPad to the ASIair’s WiFi hot spot. I then fire up the App on the iPad. The app simply displays “ASIAIR not found”. If I press Scan I get …. If I press “Go Setting” I can see my WiFi connections and I see my iPad is still connected to my ASIair’s hot spot. So why can’t the App see it? Changing the WiFi setting to my home network router gets me nowhere. I’ve tried switching everything on and off umpteen times. I’ve tried connecting the app to the ip address of ASIair. Oddly I can still connect to my iPhone to the ASIair. My iPhone still has an unrenewed (although latest version) of the App on it. Frankly I’m flummoxed. Any ideas anyone?

As per this photo …