bosun21

Always padded cases for my eyepieces and other optical equipment. Large, medium and small plastic boxes with lids for everything else.

I have indeed read several articles from learned folk that small errors in alignment will make such small indiscernible differences in the image quality (at least with your eye). But once again they didn’t define small.

Depends on your definition of “very tiny“.

I have never considered this aspect. If I ever do decide to buy another Maksutov I’ll make sure that it’s at least f15. I think Skywatcher have made too many concessions by making them shorter focal lengths.

Remember that the CC has a much larger central obstruction than the 150 Maksutov. This will definitely affect contrast.

I use a concenter to set my secondary mirror then a Cheshire. I finish off with a 2” Hotech laser which is perfectly collimated. The Hotech collimation is repeatable and takes seconds to check the collimation on my 12” before each observing session.

I just tried my 14mm in my Starfield 102 f7 and the tone is just fine. I did see a slight yellowish ring around the edge of the FOV however it disappeared when I positioned my eye properly.

I tried to buy mine secondhand and placed a wanted ad in the classifieds. I managed to buy three of them this way all in immaculate condition. I however became impatient and bought the other three new. I then added the designated case for them. All in all it was money well spent.

Back on track now then?

There’s several Crayford style focusers that fit on the 150 and 180 but not for the 127.

What’s it doing in the binoculars thread 🤔.

Nice write on your new scope. Regarding the adjustable pivot points for the altitude movement on both my 8” and 12” I simply placed it in balance with my heaviest eyepiece inserted and haven’t adjusted it since. A good idea is to get yourself a magnet counterweight which you can simply move it up and down the tube to achieve balance. I have since fitted a starsense unit, multiple synta finder shoe adapter and simply re balance it with a movement of the counterweight. I bought my counterweight from Amazon and wrapped it in an old sock to protect the paintwork.

Sorry for going off topic Paul. @globular and @Franklin has explained it clearly showing the 2.6x insertion with the plastic ring (good job I held onto them). I will now give my MBII’s a go in my 12” dobsonian. Back to topic everyone.

I thought you meant screwing it into the 1.25” nosepiece telescope end in which case it’s in the wrong orientation. Does the nosepiece you are using have threads all the way up to allow the GPC to be screwed in from the binoviewer side? The one I previously owned only had threads half way up the nosepiece barrel. In that case it’s problem solved. I think we were talking about the same outcome all along. Thanks again.

As the convex side of the 2.6x GPC must point to the sky and can’t simply be opened up and the cemented lens doublet reversed like the other two, if screwed into the nosepiece it would be in the incorrect orientation for the 2.6x GPC. This is what I’m trying to work out.

Thanks Paul. I currently have all three of the GPC’s two of which screw into the binoviewer itself. I will try it with the 1.7x (which is closer to 1.5x in practice) GPC the next clear night. I am trying to think of a way to use the 2.6x GPC in the stack as this can’t be screwed into the binoviewer🤔. I at present have pairs of 32mm, 25mm, 16mm plossls, 18mm BCO’s and 10mm UFF’s. I will need to buy a 1.25” nosepiece if I need to go the barlow route. What sort of magnification factor does a 2x barlow end piece provide when screwed into the nosepiece? Sorry for rambling on.

How do you find using your binoviewer with your dobsonian? I have been looking at using my MBII’s with my 12” dobsonian. I was wanting to buy the GPC from Baader designed for Newtonians but unfortunately they are in the process of designing a new model and no longer sell the old one. How are the aberrations off axis? Thanks.

I have now adjusted the tension allen screw and it's now holding the binoculars at high altitude targets just fine. I still think I will upgrade to a fluid head in the near future.

Nice image Mandy. I also like the twilight sky in the background. A few of the brighter targets can benefit from this, Venus especially so.

For a complete beginner the two most important points to determine are the moving and transportation of an 8” dobsonian to wherever they are going to observe from and storage space. Once these are out of the way I still think that for the majority of complete beginners a 8” dobsonian is a sound recommendation as Ed Ting has been voicing for 20 years. I would also enquire how hands on they are to address the collimation aspect. A refractor is also a good choice but I would choose a longer FL to allow decent views of the planets as that’s usually the first targets of choice for a beginner. A Maksutov is another good choice.

As already recommended M51 is a good start, but also consider M33 and M81. Good luck and happy hunting.

It will need to be placed on a wedge which is bought separately. This will allow you to use it in EQ mode.

In that review the writer obviously had no clue what he was doing. It's a great little scope.

Yes that's the one. I found the adjustment allen screw on the bottom of it and have now tightened the movement action on it. It now holds the weight of the Apollos at high elevation. I will be able to use it in the interim however I think I'll upgrade it to a Manfrotto fluid head of sort. Thanks for the link

What mount does the C6 XLT come with? Planets are tiny and require a high magnification and a smaller FOV. Nebula and other wide field targets are just that, wide.