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MalcolmM

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Everything posted by MalcolmM

  1. My partner does not 'get' astronomy but she does appreciate the fine lines of a Takahashi , so much so she doesn't mind one on display in the lounge 'ready' to grab and go. She's not averse to the odd peek through my Erfle either and makes all the right appreciative noises when I get all excited about finding another feint grey fuzzy Malcolm
  2. I think the 60CB would really compliment your 100DC. It's very different (portability and wide field) whereas the 76 will be less so. And the beauty is, as has been mentioned, you can buy the 76 objective unit later and you then have 3 Taks And then you can get the (cheap for a Tak) 1.7Q module and then you will have 5 Taks And as I'm discovering, you simply cannot have too many Taks:) Malcolm
  3. I have have just gone outside to check for obstructions as a few of you have suggested and it's possible that a washing line may have been in the way! I'm hoping to try that target again sometime if the rain and clouds ever go! I'll wait till it's higher in the sky and be careful of washing lines and telegraph lines! Many thanks for all your help and advice, Malcolm
  4. That's a great idea and I'll definitely try that as soon as I get another clear night. Last night was the first time I'd clear skies in weeks! The inverse lighthouse beams do not bother me and I'm a visual observer just dabbling in AP for fun but I'm intrigued as to what's causing the spikes! @inFINNity Deck thanks again for taking the time to help me Malcolm
  5. Hi, Just as an update I cannot see any obvious obstructions in either the camera or scope (pics attached - though very difficult to see!). Also I have attached a picture that was taken with the camera and a 200mm zoom lens. No telescope. The same artifact appears there too. Malcolm
  6. Thanks for all your replies so far. I'll check the scope and the camera for any obstructions when I get home from work. Malcolm
  7. Hi, I have never used the SW so I can't compare! All I can offer is my very biased opinion that the FS60CB is fantastic! Like you I got an FC100DC earlier this year. I liked it so much I got the FS60CB as a travel scope. It's brilliant. I love it and it gets more use than it's big sister for the reasons you mention. I actually got the FS60Q and later got the 76 objective unit as well. Somewhere on this forum I have expressed my opinions in more detail. So in summary, I would have no hesitation in saying get the Tak, but I'm biased and can't make any comparisons for you. Good luck whichever you choose, Malcolm
  8. Hi, Would someone be able to tell me what is causing the spikes in the bright stars in the attached pic? This was taken with a Nikon attached to a Tak FS60CB directly. No flattener. It's 10 x 10 sec exposures at ISO 1600 on an alt/az mount stacked in Sequator. Though I have seen something similar just using the camera plus a 200mm zoom lens which might imply it is the camera itself? Many Thanks, Malcolm
  9. What drew me to Takahashi was that after much research on this forum and others and other websites too was that it seemed to me that those who owned Takahashi literally fell in love with them and many who did not own one would have loved to have one. There just seemed to be 'something' about these scopes. I bought one, loved it so much I bought another and then started on the Takahashi eyepieces and accessories So I've very definitely caught the bug! I love looking at them, through them and reading about them and reading about other people's experiences of using them! For me they are scopes for life, have a personality and I get huge enjoyment out of owning a couple! Malcolm
  10. Thanks for all your comments. With the lack of decent skies, I can only get my astronomical satisfaction by gazing longingly at my scopes, hearing others talk about their enjoyment of Taks and enviously reading about bigger Taks like the FS128 @F15Rules Malcolm
  11. Observing weather has been atrocious for me over the last few months and so I have taken to just using my FS60CB/Q and running outside to get a few minutes here and there between the clouds! I managed to grab 10 minutes on the moon the other night; I just took telescope as was and ran outside ... 'as was' happened to be in Q mode with a Tak 28mm Erfle in the diagonal. I was absolutely astonished at the amount of contrast this combination gave me. So the magnification at x21 was much less than I would normally use on the moon but the image was so sharp and contrasty I just soaked up the view for 10 minutes until the clouds came in. I never even thought to go in and get a more powerful eyepiece. I was so impressed and taken with this high contrast combination I simply had to share Malcolm
  12. Thanks for the reassuring reply @Highburymark. I do not think the tuner is loosing pressure so it's good to hear that winding it all the way in is fairly common. I'll simply have to experiment with different eyepieces; lack of clear skies has hampered me so far. I too don't particularly like the helical focuser but given that it 'does the job' and I have been very extravagant on new kit over lockdown it'll have to do for now Malcolm
  13. Hi, Does anyone use this combination (Lunt LS50THa & 3-6mm Nagler Zoom)? I find I have to rack the focuser all the way in to get focus. I feel I am probably not at 'perfect' focus because I cannot rack the focuser in any further to obviously defocus. i.e. I can only defocus on one side of the 'in focus' point. I hope this explanation makes sense! Has anyone else found the same issue? I also find I have to have the pressure tuner wound pretty well fully in to get the surface detail and proms. Is this normal? I have seen elsewhere on this forum that some people have to wind the pressure tuner pretty well fully in. I should caveat the above by saying I have only used this scope a couple of times and it took me 3 sessions before seeing the proms and surface detail. But when it all comes right the views are fascinating! I can get good focus and fantastic views with a Type 5 Nagler 16mm, but this obviously gives quite low magnification. Many Thanks, Malcolm
  14. I do the same as @Tiny Clanger for grab and go. Photo tripod, small refractor (Tak FS60CB) permanently attached, carried outside with the tripod leg sections fully closed up (or if extended, one leg folded in). I also have a 4" refractor but it gets taken out in 2 stages; tripod then scope. The combination is just too big to fit through doorways without being bumped! Regarding storage, I'm afraid I'm a drooler, so the scopes are left out in full view gathering dust Though I like the sound of @Franklin's idea of covering it with a sheet. Malcolm
  15. Sorry, it was my confusion I rushed in too quick with my reply. My own opinion; I think the FS60CB/Q is such a fabulous scope it deserves great eyepieces. It was largely due to @JeremyS that I discovered the delights of owning a Takahashi so I would be very happy to take his advice on eyepieces for them! Malcolm
  16. I must admit I have never used a 24 Panoptic but I only ever hear good things about it. I would think long and hard before selling it. It must give a pretty good wide field view with the 60CB?
  17. I have the same scope setup and whereas I prefer the Tak TOE eyepieces for high power it's hard to beat the Nagler zoom for versatility. You can change the magnification easily to match the seeing conditions. So I would recommend the Nagler zoom and maybe a budget one for low powers? Possibly even sell the Celestron as it's 7.5 is quite similar to the Nagler's 6mm?
  18. Very excited to see my first prom through a Lunt 50! It took me three sessions, countless searches on SGL for advice and a bath towel over my head! One quick glimpse at very low magnification before the clouds covered the sun. But it was definitely there and really was very thrilling when, with a final turn of the pressure tuner, the surface turned dappled and the prom appeared! Malcolm
  19. Wow - that is some set up! LOL we are going down the same path only you are ahead of me! I find the helical focuser a pain and of limited use and was considering getting the click lock. I do like the Tak stock focuser though you need very deft movements to get focus sometimes - I see you have a 10:1 focuser? I also have been admiring the Baader Max Brights but have seen some reviews suggesting that optically they do not provide much of a jump in views. So the verdict is still out on that one. I have also considered the Power Mate but I have found I cannot use my Celestron barlows at all anywhere in the light path and I have them up for sale! I wonder would the Power Mate work in my configuration given it is optically different from a barlow? It would be yet another expensive suck it and see Malcolm
  20. I should have been more explicit! No, I have a T thread to 1.25" Helical focuser. And then the Binoviewer just slots in. I'll attach another pic which might make it more obvious, written English was never my strong point You can see the WO 1.6 nosepiece attached to the other end of the diagonal Malcolm
  21. I'm told the D in FC100DC stands for digital (i.e. imaging) but I have very little focus range. I suppose that's why Tak sell so many extenders etc. Dunno about you but ever since buying a solar filter I seem to just get wet from standing in the English rain Malcolm
  22. Hi, I have attached a pic. The bit ringed in red is the bit that can be removed apparently; I have not felt the need to try this yet - call me vain but I love the look of the scope as is I alternate between cyclops and bino mode and have a way of doing this which works for me. I have my WO Binoviewers permanently attached to a Baader prism and the 1.6x nosepiece is permanently attached to the prism on the scope side. So when I want to change from cyclops to Binoviewer mode, I just remove my Tak prism and eyepiece and plug in the Baader. I need the Baader as the Tak prism does not have the standard thread to take the nosepiece. I must say I have not noticed any vignetting with the 28's but maybe if I look for it I'll see it I just did a wee check there in daylight and if by vignetting you mean a dimming of the image at the edge of the FOV then there was nothing obvious to me; that's not to say a more experienced observer would not notice it! It was a bit of trial and error getting to this point, but for me anyway, that's all part of the fun of this hobby! Malcolm
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