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Grifflin

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Posts posted by Grifflin

  1. When I started with NINA I messed up my imaging tab.  For what it is worth, if you go to Options>Imaging then you will find a reset layout button at the bottom right.  May not put you back yo where you were but it will put everything back so you can start again 🙂

    • Like 1
  2. Thanks Vlaiv....yep, all good and calibrated.  Used the Crop tool to shave off 1 pixel of the resized flats and PI was happy.  A useful learning in changing the geometry of images in PI.  I think the lesson for me here is to double check settings before taking the images....all round easier that way!  😃

  3. 23 hours ago, vlaiv said:

    PI has integer resample which is software binning - simply bin your flats x2 in software and you should be fine.

    Worked a treat....almost.  Original size of Flat (in pixels) was w=4144  h=2822.  After using IntegerResample they came down to w=2072 h=1411.  However, it appears that the Lights and other calibration frames (all originally Binned 2x2) are 1 pixel out (w=2072 h=1410) and PI doesn't want to calibrate.

    One pixel out 😔

  4. Hello Everyone

    Took the rig out into the back garden the other weekend just to spend some more time going through the set-up process and getting used to the software etc.  Once set up, chose M27 as a target, again more to get some time using the image capture software (NINA).  At the end of the evening took my Flat Frames and packed up the rig.  All good.

    When I came to processing (PixInsight) I discovered that I couldn't calibrate my Flats with my Darks.  Some error talking about incompatible geometry.  Did some investigation and realised that all my lights (and other calibration frames) had all ben taken Binned 2x2 but I had failed to set my Flat Frames to match and they had been taken Binned 1x1. 

    To my mind that is a busted night of imaging as I had already dismantled the rig completely so would not be able to reproduce the Flat Frames.  Fortunately for me I'm still experimenting so no great loss.  However, is there anyway of recovering from this other than just processing without Flats...or is this just a good learning experience?  🙂

    Any thoughts?

    Neil

  5. On 25/05/2021 at 20:03, Nik271 said:

    You could use a star diagonal to add distance to back focus if all else fails.

    In fact the reason you need so much extra extension is that the focusers of these telescopes are designed with the visual user in mind who are expected to use a diagonal.

    Thanks Nik...makes sense.  Also good to know as I do tend to switch around between imaging and visual.

  6. 1 hour ago, Neil H said:

    Hi I have a 127/1200 refractor if I use my asl224mc I have the 2 extensions that came with it and a 35mm and the 2inch to 1.25 adapter if pop an low power eyepiece in to get focus then remove the eyepiece when you fit the camera you will need to rack in focus point is closed to scope than with eyepiece 

    watch this video on sharpcap the guy shows you he focus point of camera to eyepiece so this may help

    I found an image of mine when in focus

    IMG_20210328_101034.jpg

    IMG_20210328_101026.jpg

    Thanks Neil....Yeah...looks like I need a bit more space...thank you for the pictures as well ...it does help to visualise.  I haven't watched the video yet but will give it a go later.  Many thanks.

  7. 1 hour ago, Laurieast said:

    I have the SW Evostar 80 ED, I use a Canon EOS 500D, the focus tube is out 46mm. Then a T adapter, T Ring, Camera. 
    I have to go out to 72mm with a 2x barlow in that trail. 

    Back focus in this camera is about 46mm

    Different camera, but it does all add up.

    ~ 180mm  altogether.

    This was last used on NGC2903 at 33 million light years away, so pretty much set at infinity 😉

     

    20210523_154358.jpg

    Thanks Laurence.....Ok...yep ... that makes sense....looks like I probably need about another 30mm.  Many thanks for taking the trouble to take the picture. :0)

    • Like 2
  8. Hi Everyone

    Recently took delivery of my first refractor...SW 80 ED...and was putting it on the mount during the day to work out balance, focus etc.  When looking for the focus point I aimed it at a distant tree line (miles away) but, even with the focus tube all the way out I could not reach focus.  I added in some spacers (about an extra 50mm worth) and I could see that it was starting to get there but it looked like it still need more 'distance'.  Maybe another 10 or 20mm.  Now I know that I can get another spacer to add that distance in and I feel it will probably work but somehow it doesn't feel right that it should be so far out.  However, that could just be my lack of experience and this is something which is perfectly normal.  Grateful for anyones thoughts before I go and buy some spacers.

    For info, there is no focal reducer being used here and I am using a ZWO ASI294MC camera connected to a laptop using SharpCap.

    Many thanks

    Neil

  9. Ok, I'm new to AP but here is my first DSO (M42 of course!).  Taken with a Celestron Nexstar 6SE and associated Alt-Az mount so no guiding and no filter with a 73% moon.  Camera was a ZWOASI294MC. About 100 x 10s subs with darks, flats and bias.  All stacked and processed in Pixinsight.  Having got the camera refurbed from FLO I was anxious just to try something while waiting for an EQ mount etc etc.  This was very much a case of lets see what we can see night.

    Second was first light with an RC8 (just as it came out of the box so no view on collimation) on a CEM70 mount on M81 (new gear had finally arrived!).  Unguided, 34 x 60s, flats, darks and bias.  ASI294MC, no filters and 93% moon.  All processed in Pixinsight.  This was the first run out with the new rig and also using NINA for the first time.

    Lots of issues and I have a list as long as my arm of things I need to work on here but for me, a happy start....shame we are moving into the summer months.

    Neil

    M42 Reduced.jpg

    M81-Bodes Galaxy Reduced.jpg

    • Like 1
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