Which one is Polaris

Yup, some of these parts look very much like they have to be there. Sounds like you have it all sorted out. That is good news ! Cheers Tim

I have a TS 80mm Photoline Triplet and TSFlat25del Flattener with its red spacer tube, I added a William Optics CAA, then to a Nikon Z6ii camera. No OAG, Filter Wheel or EAF. Guiding is a separate Guide scope and camera. I only do One Shot Colour, as in the UK a clear patch of sky is infrequent. Also, I have to drive to a site, setup / breakdown every time. It isn't possible to image from home so I try to keep everything as simple as possible. This is my original configuration when I had added the CAA (63mm both ends). Note I ended up with only 2mm inward travel left. I still needed approximately 2mm more backfocus to get sharp corners. So I ended up in your predicament. From the back of the red spacer tube flange I had the following: 2mm shim -> 30mm spacer tube -> 10mm spacer tube -> 1mm shim -> 0.5mm shim -> M48 / T2 adapter for Nikon Z mount (9mm) -> Z6ii Flange to Sensor (16mm) = 68.5mm This is the final configuration with the CAA downstream of the Flattener. This gave me back the 20.6mm inward focus travel taken up by the CAA. It also delays the necking down M63 to M48 to the camera, which seems to have helped reduce Vignetting. I needed to buy different spacer tubes so I bought a TS Variable M48 Adapter 17 to 23mm. Now set approx 21.5mm. I have not finished precisely tuning the backfocus (clouds) but am very close, in the 0.2 to 0.4mm adjustment range, so it will all work. The Variable tube is brilliant. The Flattener comes with an empty red spacer tube and I use it. Removing it would give around 20mm space for additional equipment. FLO has all these parts. From the back of the red spacer tube flange I now have the following: CAA (20.6mm) -> 2mm shim -> Variable spacer set at ~21.5mm -> 1mm shim -> M48 / T2 adapter for Nikon Z mount (9mm) -> Z6ii Flange to Sensor (16mm) = 70.1 Hope that helps. Cheers Tim

OK, great. I will send the details later today. I have to go out right now. Cheers

I had this problem. I moved the CAA to downstream of the Reducer. Now the Reducer is hard up to the backend of the focuser. This released a lot of inward focus travel (the length of the CAA). Also, the CAA is now used as a Spacer, and in my case was M63, so helps delay the necking down to M48,. This improved vignetting. Cheers

I get into trouble at high Declinations, so the limits are good. You can tell the mount what its behaviour should be at the Meridian. I have my CEM26 set to Stop, which helps. Or I start imaging just past the meridian. I am always near to the mount (mobile setup) so can just do the flip manually and check the new alignment to the target. I often rotate the camera. I am buying a Pier Extension for my new Mount as it seems to help a lot with avoiding collisions.

The terrible grinding noise is usually just the stepper motors jumping steps if the axis can't turn for any reason. Normally no damage is done, you just lose the current position and have to setup again. Note that the mount will beep and stubbornly 'fail to move' or 'not Track' if it thinks you are at the Meridian. Ii is worth checking that the worm engagement to the main gear is not too tight. Mesh adjustment procedure is simple.

Great report on your first impressions. I am waiting for mine to arrive from FLO. I went to the European Astro Fest in Kensington, London yesterday. It was a shot in the dark to order the Nyx 101 some time ago and seeing it in operation by EvansG made me very confident in my choice. The exhibition is also open today, Sunday. Lots of equipment to see all in one place. The standard Pegasus CF tripod is beefy and has a very wide stance. My Payload is a 5" Refractor, Flattner, Nikon Z6 ii, Guider, misc. at 10.5 kg. Definitely no need for counterweights & shaft to prevent tipover. Very portable. I do have the pier extension on order.

Excellent news, thanks. I am waiting for mine.

Thanks Deadlake.

Thanks for the info. I don't use Facebook. It would be great if all the news and photos could be on the Pegasus Astro web site for all customers and everyone else to see.

Well that is good news !! No mould. I am not proficient enough to contemplate removing the lens cell. I don't know about the Warranty, but I would be worried that I would cock up the alignment and quickly spiral into problems I couldn't fix. I do have a few specks of dust on the inside of the objective but by all accounts it is immaterial so I will ignore them.

I can't image at home. I drive out, setup and take apart every night. Setting up I take the flattener cap off and put my Nikon Z6ii camera onto the scope as soon as it is safely on the mount. That is quick, extension tubes still cool, and no condensation forms on the sensor. I put my objective dew heater on the scope and turn it on, then take the big cap off. No condensation forms on the lens. At the end of the night I check the objective and put the cap on before I take the heater off. The cap is a snug fit with felt. I leave the camera on, taking Darks. Drive home. I bring the scope + camera into the house and put it in the spare bedroom as it is, turn the camera off. Some condensation forms on the outside, wipe it off after 30 mins. Next day I take the objective cap and camera off, check no condensation (never is) and leave the caps off for a day or two. I take the card out of the camera, transfer the Lights, save the first 10 - 15 Darks. I did try taking the objective cap and camera off the scope as soon as I got home and had bad condensation on the objective and camera sensor immediately. That took a very good cleaning to get them both clear again. Sensor in particular. Lesson learned. I am happy to hear of any improvements possible in my workflow.

Sorry - I didn't notice you had already explained everything. I have deleted my post

Deleted

Are your batteries OK, showing red. Cheers