powerlord

yeh examples i had were: site with big empty grass field as it was october or so.. "can i just park the motorhome over there in the field - I don't need any electricity or anything?" no, thats for tents. motorhomes on the concrete row, all must be front out.. "yeh, but there's no tents there, so can't i just go in there?", no, thats for tents. motorhomes on the concrete row, all must be front out.. site with van parked around sides, with big open grass in middle.. so I parked side facing the big grass bit so I can have door open, and sit outside and dog can be on long staked leash and run about. "hello, can you move your motorhome please. all motorhomes must be either nose in or nose out" why ? "because as you can see, the other motorhomes are" why ? "you will have to move or go." ok, bye then, ill make sure and leave a review Then again I've also been on a 'relaxed' site where a group of scrotes were quite happy to use the back of my motorhome as a 'wall' to bounce their football off...Hence I try to stick to ones so basic no one would take kinds to, and with no fixed pitches or electric hookups which usually keeps the more, shall we say, satellite tv, awning, leveling chuck and fairy light type away...

Nothing is gonna 'just work' like the asiair - that's the important thing you need to bear in mind. So be prepared to compromise and spend a lot more time faffing around. I'm not saying don't do it. Just be aware of the trade off and be happy you can live with it. That is one of the main benefits of a closed system - mac vs windows/linux, package holiday vs roll yer own, nina vs asiair. But the other major difference is the UX - mobile app vs one or multiple PC apps. There is no viable mobile app alternative to asiair, nor do I think there will ever be, as the venn diagram of asiair users and 'the others' don't seem to have much cross over in their valuation of mobile app/user friendliness as far as I can see, so efforts are either non existent or so basic and buggy as to be useless. Lastly it might be worth mentioning if you want to shoot with multiple controller. I now regularly shoot with 4 asiairs on the same night, 4 different setups, 4 different mobile devices connected (not necessary though, I could just use one and swap between them). Though not impossible, I'd be impressed by anyone doing to same thing with a PC alternative. However, If you do decide, I'd do it BEFORE you get a non asiair camera and get it all working and live with it for a while, then make the move - that way you know you'll be happy. If you already have an asiair, no need for new HW - AND you can go back to asiair by just popping original sdcard back in. Just get a new sdcard, and have a look at stuff out there - you have options of running astroberry, stellarmate, openastro on it, or you can think about something like VirtualHere, which exposes everything plugged into the pi to a PC in your house as usb - and you can then use nina or something on a PC in your home, BUT it will be connected to everything as if it was outside. Joey Troy seems to be the guy hacking all this - so have a look at his site: https://joeytroy.com/ As I say, the benefit is you can play with what you've got and see if it's a trade off you are prepared to make. I say trade off, because you have mentioned 'just works'. And though much of this other software is more powerful, more configurable and has more hardware support, it does not by any stretch of the imagination 'just work' Personally, I decided (after trying most of them), that my time and sanity was more valuable to me that the couple of 100 quid I'd save buying non zwo gear. However, your mileage may vary as the saying goes - more power ta ya. stu

Oh, I will post some pics of it in action - or maybe even publish the website if I can be bothered. Should be up by tonight once the silicone sets 🙂

Is that with Thomas's software Stuart, or something else ? Originally, with the asi120mc-s version I made I was trying to original zero - increased the swap space, etc - and it did just about work, but it was cpu maxed all the time, and videos took 6 hours+ do create so was not practical. I did buy a Zero 2 W to try, but in the end, just thought why bother and stuck with the 4 for flexibility. Thomas still doesn't recommend the Zero 2 unless you absolutely have no option, but I'd have thought it will work, just need tweaking like the zero did - more swap space, less image taking. maybe lower res videos, etc.

well, Thomas doesn't recommend the 1 or 2. I think the 2 (imx219) is limited to 11 secs max exposure which might not help. But, hey - try it - you never know.

I stay clear of all CCC sites anyway - as you say, lighting, militant rules, etc, etc. I prefer back to basics sites - a field is all I need. Loads in Suffolk/Norfolk. The farm sites are ok sometimes, but often are in wooded areas, etc (its a farm- its crap land they can't otherwise work), and actually quite small areas. But it's definately a matter of looking at pics, google earth too, etc and seeing if it's viable.

Raspberry Pi added a new camera module at the beginning of the year - 'Camera 3' - imx708 12mp sensor with autofocus. While the autofocus is not really relevant, it is quite a decent camera and can take long exposures unlike modules 1 and 2 making is quite suitable for all sky night work. Thomas Jacquin's excellent allsky pi software works with it from May or so this year: https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky You do need to add one tweek to the config to disable the autofocus, and focus it at stars manually (set by trial and error, but should be more or less as below): --autofocus-mode manual --lens-position 10.19 Which I found out for myself, and Thomas will be updating docs in the next few days - so looks like I'm the first to do this. Anyway, the benefit over using an HQ camera (or asi120, etc) is: 1. much cheaper since it comes with 120 degree lens 2. a purpose build enclose is available for it which would not fit the HQ. Plus this is a big win over making yer own - I tried my best to make a sealed enclosure for my asi120MC-S based one, but after 6 months or so, it had started to dew up inside - and I really didn't want to have to start doing dew heaters, etc. The cons: 1. It is only 120 degrees. So if you want 180 degrees look elsewhere. For me, 120 gets me most of the sky I can see, and as it's for cloud cover mainly and pretty star videos secondarily thats fine. 2. prob more noise at night that HQ, but to be honest so far in my quick test last night the results are MUCH better than the ASI120MC-S I was using before. So what does it cost and what do you need: Pi wise, it will run on the Zero 2 W, just about. You will need to take less pics, and experiment a bit to see what videos, etc it can create each day with it's limited CPU - but it will work. Currently in stock at pi hut and 17 quid. Alternatively if you want more pics, more videos, quicker web, etc - get a pi4 for 35 quid. Both in stock now. https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-zero-2 https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-model-b Camera: wide camera 3 (note there is also a version without IR filter - not got this to try, but might be even better for allsky work?) 36 quid https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-camera-module-3?variant=42305752072387 This is vs an HQ which is 52 quid, and then you'd need a lens - probably another 20 quid. So saving 35 quid or so here. And the camera enclosure - this wouldn't work with HQ or any other camera - asi, etc - this is the real benefit of going the camera 3 route. 36.50 quid https://thepihut.com/products/entaniya-waterproof-case-for-raspberry-pi-camera-modules This is a really well designed bit of kit - multiple seals, desicant inside - it really should be air tight. water proof pi zero case (well small case - nowt specially pi zero really). For pi4, seems pi hut don't do one, but nip into screwfix and you'll get a waterproof junctionbox for around the same price which will fit a 4 easy - I'm just using a project box I had lying around. 8.70 https://thepihut.com/products/flanged-weatherproof-enclosure-with-pg-7-cable-glands power supply for the pi: 9 quid https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-psu-uk I'll assume you've got an SDcard kicking around to use. So total: 17 36 36.50 8.70 9.00 ------ 107.20 with Pi Zero 2 or ~128 quid with pi 4 (and assuming you source your own waterproof pi enclosure (screwfix, etc) - camera one is fine of course. There are maybe cheaper options, but this is getting you a camera that can shoot up to 200 second stills (I find 60 seconds is giving me very clear bright sky and stars with very low noise), and a multipurpose computer out in the garden - so a fiver to add a rain sensor and a bit of python gets you a rain sensor alerter as well, etc, etc And it will be generating lovely quality 4k 30fps daily videos, Keograms and Startrails. And it comes with a public web server as well as the admin interface, so you can make your website available to the unwashed public should you wish! I'm still letting the silicon sealing dry on mine, and the tests I've done have just been pointing camera out the window, so can't post many pics just now, but here is mine assembled (well open just now) - I'm using a pi4 as I had one already and want to add rain sensor, and other stuff to it, so makes sense to have spare cpu power for the sake of 17 quid extra. note: The heat sink gets mildly warm in use only - I'd imagine you probably don't need it. stu

impressive amounts of oiii there in 'only' 9 hours. well done. And more innocent times when this was named the squid rather than the butt plug 😃

nice detail. mayb you're clipping the highlights ?

What models were u thinking of instead ? I noted the lower efficiency, but I suppose it's a pay off for the higher mp vs a 2mb job.

I was thinking of getting asi678mc for this sort of thing ?. Quite cheap and decent res.

The same night the 200pds was imaging Pickering's Triangle in NB, the redcat and another asi2600 was shooting the whole Veil Nebula in wideband. With 40% moon, it was not ideal, but it was far enough away to not seem to impact it much. I've shot Veil many times before, but never for such a long time in broadband, so it was nice to see some dust and dimmer features coming out. I also had to restart the edit when I realised I'd captured a galaxy on the right, and cropped half of it off the first time - so I restarted from scratch and kept it in - I like how it's just sitting in that valley of dust. I tried to maximise my subs for this more than I would usually - I've been doing that more often with broadband recently - maybe overflowing the wells of the brightest stars, but managing to get more faint details? These were 5 min subs - 7 hours of em. Editing wise - lovely as they are - on shots like this the stars just take over - there's just so many of em. So I applied some curves, luminosity layering, etc to try and find a happy medium.

I tend to mostly shoot 10 mins subs with the L-ultimate - it's a 3nm dual band. 10 mins vs 5 mins seems visually obviously better to me ? Surely it depends on aperture, target brightness and a bunch of other stuff ? I just tend to stick with what works for me - clear skies are rare enough without using ones to experiment with when things are already working. The only time I drop em to 5 mins is if I'm imaging somewhere with a very high FL and struggling to get a low enough guide RMS.

I'd have like longer on this, but the weather didn't play ball. 3 hours of 10 min subs with my 200pds, asi2600 and L-ultimate. It's a bit noisy, but noiseX was just mushing it up when I tried any more noise removal, so I've left it as is - still lots of fine detail in there.

Indeed, I'm looking forward to lending mine out to friends - it's easy enough for them to use and I think when they can see stuff like above from their back garden, it'll kinda blow their mind. stu

I have a motorhome. I fitted ethernet and 12v supplies to the garage. I carry my astro equip in the garage along with all the other toys (paramotor, electric bike, kayak, drones, etc). It's a great way to get to quiet places - at least in scotland. down here (I live in ipswich) every council is no anti wild camping that it's really difficult to find dark places to park for the night that don't have either 'no overmight parking' signs or a local population who are intent on being anti the idea of a motorhome parking for the night. So much so, that I now constrain myself in england to only campsites. stu

I reckon it's PGC 28225

Same here, u need to be ready to go as soon as dark enough. This is me at 7pm just before it dips below neighbours roof.

Oops yeh sorry bout that. Yes, I noticed that wee galaxy so made sure my crop kept it. You just just see the edge left in the phone crop. I think M33 came out best personally. It even brought out some of the ha regions. I was going to do m82 too, but ran out of time.

Right, this took a while, so probably last time I do it - but very useful for folk thinking about whether to get one I think. Here are all the images I shot last night - all 1600 pictures integrated! On the left, the live stack as it appeared on phone and saved to gallery. On the right, integrated and processed on computer - also with name and total imaging time. I've tried to crop only as much as I needed to. I think they are all respectable tbh, but you can certainly see that for best results, computer processing and manual manipulation required (for me, AstroPixelProcessor for stacking, Siril for colour calibration, Affinity Photo and NoiseX, StarX for editing). But if I could have started out with an S50 3 years ago rather than the bits and bobs I did start out with, I think I'd have been very happy. About 70 mins seems to be enough to get a pretty good image of most things.

60 mins is all I get in a night from my location. This is about 30 mins longer than before I built my obsy - which has a slightly clearer line of sight, plus the piers elevate it by 50cm or so. 200pds, asi2600 and L-ultimate. I tried a hubble palette on it, but it's too noisy to work at the moment imho.

Is it supposed to ? I just assumed it was the plate solve data/id like you get in asiair - for info overlay. not saved with image. If you have logo on, you get the title at the bottom which will tell you what it is (assuming it knows)

30 mins to an hour. though i think M81 was a bit longer, as I left it going till it was 5% battery left (that was after it had drained a 14ah powerbank that was attached to it) Sorry, I turned off the logo at the bottom that shows that stuff - maybe should turn it on again. I'll post the processed pics and integration times (each was a single live stack so will match) later today

First Light - IT WORKS!!!!

This is the culmination of an experiment I've been working on - basically cutting up a 2" L-extreme, and fitting it inside my full frame Canon 6D. I've never had good results with screwing a filter on the front of lenses - either it gives big nastly vignetting that is difficult to remove even with flats, or it does weird things to all the stars as they go further from the centre. Details here: Anyway, this is 'first light' for what I am calling the 'Stu-extreme'. And you know what - it works. pretty awesomely ! This is 5 hours of 3 minute subs with the 6d and stu-extreme fitted. It was on my crappy old EQ5 and guiding refused to calibrate last night, so I was relying on tracking alone - 3 mins was as long as I could go without trails. I shot wide open on the canon lens and was well chuffed to see pin point stars edge to edge with the lens, and no distortion caused by the stu-extreme. This looks like a successful experiment and I'll be using it a lot now with the 6d and camera lenses!