powerlord

Sorry..website kept saying wait error so kept trying to post it. 🙄

Tip - if using camera 3, try --denoise off rather than the colour denoise. Yes, it's more noisy, but you can then clearly see milkyway and stuff like plaeides are much better.

Tip - if using camera 3, try --denoise off rather than the colour denoise. Yes, it's more noisy, but you can then clearly see milkyway and stuff like plaeides are much better.

Tip - if using camera 3, try --denoise off rather than the colour denoise. Yes, it's more noisy, but you can then clearly see milkyway and stuff like plaeides are much better.

Tip - if using camera 3, try --denoise off rather than the colour denoise. Yes, it's more noisy, but you can then clearly see milkyway and stuff like plaeides are much better.

cool. As it's relevant - I took delivery of an asi678 on monday to do my own sort of 'S50 max' - sticking it on my 200pds - and took the blown out core by just lucky image stacking around 5000 100ms and 1sec images.

All ios apps work on apple silicon macs . It's one of the benefits on apple silicon. I run asiair on my macs sometimes. What is frustrating is that they only let one instance run. Sometimes I image with 4 asiairs at once. It'd be great to have 4 instances of asiairs running side by side on my mac, but apple don't allow it. Stu

I tried a few experiments last night my my new asi678 on my 200pds. This is core of M42 using lucky imaging. A combination of 100ms subs and 1000ms subs. I've included a pic showing the area you are looking at as it's not normally that obvious in M42 shots since it's so bright.

Asiair video really improved a lot. So this is first time I've done jupiter with it automatically from the comfort of my bed. Usually I'm out there manually focusing, faffing with laptop and eyepieces, etc. But with new asi678, fov is enough for it to goto it on my 200pds, and get a decent pic. Makes the whole thing a heck of a lot easier. This is first light for asi678. Well impressed with it.

plastic bag ? I mean, why over complicate it.

I do like that - can see orion, pleiades, etc. I suppose it also depends on sensor size. my lens on the asi120 doesn't get me a circle fish eye for example - it fills the whole sensor. I they supply the same 2.1mm for all the cameras, the fov is gonna change I suppose depending on sensor size.

Good work. And just in case you've not worked it out - I didn't originally. There are 2 websites - the admin, and the public: Http://allsky.local/ admin/secret admin site Http://allsky.local/allsky fancy public website

You can set it to ftp the pics to somewhere else. That way just needs outgoing, not incoming. Then host website elsewhere. Stu

I think they are 2.1mm 150 FOVs ?

I think with an asi camera, you need a dew heater - its a big block of ali, and will get cold. With the cam 3, its just the board, so the small amount of heat that generates goes directly into warming the air - so no need for dew heaters. that's what I think anyway. Plus, there's the heat of the pi4 - in my enclosure it sort of warms the enclosure, therefore the top and lens, etc. It's probably possible to just stick a mobile wide angle lens on top of the camera 3 I reckon, with a bit of experimenting. it is after all, a mobile phone camera. then you get the wide angle too. you'd just need to get a sort of round mount on the cam 3 - maybe a big o-ring, 3d printed bit or something - wide angle popped on the top - and voila - you should get your 170 degrees or so if desired. stu

fair enough. to be fair though I can't see how once set focus would change any more or less than on the HQ and lens ? And I did talk about the 120 degree lens. Good move with the RPI4 though, give you a lot more oomf. so far anyway mine is keeping focus. I do agree that the 120 degree lens is something you have to be happy with - or don't bother. For me - it's ideal. I suppose it depends what you want it for too - my main purpose is just cloud checking really - while I'm imaging, is it still clear, etc. The timelapses, keograms, etc are all just added bonuses. for others - focus faffing wise - just install https://github.com/Gordon999/Pi_LIbCamera_GUI it allows you to live view stars, distance, etc and adjust manually focus to work it out - then you have the value (whatever it is in libcamera divided by 100).

Pic. And turns out it's resistive..so can't paint. So I've made so when corrodes and stops working can plug out and plug new one in. Looks a bit like a rubbish satellite...

Just to be clear, it would see Internet if you'd joined it to yer home WiFi. I assume u mean if you'd not done that and were just connecting direct to seestar hot-spot. Then, yeh depending on phone settings, yer phone may lose Internet at that point. I can't remember how activation works, but it may be that once added seestar, you can flip back to home WiFi to activate app, thrn flip back if yer phone can't use mobile when no WiFi Internet (as I think that was quite a new android thing ?)

The one on ebay sold for £780 @!!!!/ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145386923967 Madness.

Just added a rain detector. So for info on anyone else who wants to do it - just get summit like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354993852102 I use voicemonkey.io to setup a trigger and link voicemonkey to my Alexa. then in Alexa I can trigger that when my voiceMonkey trigger is called, Alexa shouts out to me that it has started raining. I want it to only do this if my observatory is active. So basically logic is: If my observatory (oiii is its name - fyi in code) is active, check for rain, and if raining, alert me. then don't alert me again. when it stops raining, reset the alert so can be alerted again if starts raining again. Limitations of Alexa mean I have to manually tell it if my observatory is on even though I turn it on/off with alexa - so I do this via an API call and I have two shortcuts on my phone to call that to effectively arm rain detector or disarm it. that's it basically. its python v3.9 and just runs on yer Pi, and monitors the digital pin on the rain detector (which you have tuned via the board to detect rain). Hope that make sense - but in a nutshell again - when I open the observatory roof and decide to image, I click the 'arm rain detector' button on my phone. if it rains at any time, alexa will shout out and tell me throughout the house so I can run out and close it all up.. but IF.. its just a spot and I decide to leave it as it dries up - it will still alert me later if it rains again. Whenever I shutdown, either during night or in morning, I press 'disarm rain detector' on my phone, and it won't monitor rain or send alerts anymore. I've got some testing of the detector yet - it's capacitive so makes sense to protect it with plastic or paint, etc to stop corrosion, then tune it again. And I'll mount it at an angle, and polish with car wax (as I will be doing on allsky lens) to aid water beading off. attached some code to get you started. rainDetector.py

Yeh, minus the focusing filter, that's what I do. Just pop a 48mm ext on adapter. Can't hurt. I do it more to avoid stray light from neighbours gardens.

Doesn't do anything in scenery mode I don't think. There you just tap to focus.

Keep yer eye out on ebay. I got my set off there for just over 200 quid. Even my parents were impressed..and that is a rare thing indeed with technology.

So, yesterday the first time sky clear enough to actually see stars for any length of time - so here's the video (200mb as it's 4k) and the keogram: allsky-20231030.mp4

Ah, sorry misunderstood. Yeh, so there are 2 directories for each target: target target-subs target has one fit file in it - that is the stacked fit - which you see on the app, stretched and whatever else it does when it opens it. target-subs has the individual subs if you wish to restack yourself. As you've found out asistudio or Quickfits will let you view. I don't use asistudio so don't know if it lets you save ? But quickfits does - it allows you to export it as a stretched tiff, which you can then open in yer editor of choice. quickfits is free: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/quickfits/id1551075981?mt=12