Ian McCallum

43 minutes ago, wesdon1 said:

I do understand totally where you're coming from, I almost quit imaging on many occasions due to struggling constantly! I guess if visual makes you the happiest then thats definitely the right path! 

I do like AP, but I've don't have an APO refractor or DSO cooled camera.  I find that sometimes the software on the RPi can be glitchy, but when it does run it does work well.

42 minutes ago, Mandy D said:

It's unpretentious and there is no doubt about what it is. I like it. It's better than my attempts on Mars, so far.

Believe it or not, that was imaged with a second hand SW Evostar 120 achromat, on a EQ5 Pro mount with a Raspberry Pi running Astroberry OS, a ZWO ASI224MC camera fitted with 2x BST Barlow and FireCapture software.

Just now, wesdon1 said:

And to think the night started off terrible, everything that could go wrong, did!? LOL

That's partly the reason that I've gone back to visual.

Nothing grandiose from me, just this image of Mars.

3 minutes ago, Mr Spock said:

Not so impressed with the Baader contrast booster filter. It might help a little on Mars but seemed yo introduce some false colour. Hmm..

It does give a yellowish tinge to objects, especially the brighter ones...  I was going to get a 2" version for my 28mm LET EP, but am now convinced that I don't need it.  I've still got the 1.25" version, if needed.

I had some fantastically clear seeing of the lunar disk, earlier this evening.  I used the SW ST120 achro, initially with a SW 2" 28mm LET EP.  Then did a bit of observing of M45 and M42, using averted vision to see some more of the nebulosity around the Trapezium.  The CA wasn't too bad at all, even on the edge of the moon.  I think switched to the SW Evostar 120 achro, starting of with the same 28mm EP on the moon, then onto M42.  I finished up with higher magnification of the moon at the terminator, moved on to Mars, Betelgeuse and back to M45.  The mount was the AZ5 on the stainless steel tripod, for simplicity.  I did use the Baader Contrast Booster filter on the moon and Mars for the higher magnifications.  It gave the moon a slight yellowish tinge, as has been reported by others...

I've removed my YouTube subscription from some channels, based on their snotty attitudes towards others or simply because they have a heavy commercial slant to them. 

I'm still subscribed to Chris's Astro La Vista channel, Ed Ting, Jenham's Astro and Small Optics. 

After a while, you may need one of these filters!🤣

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/narrowband/antlia-125-methane-ch4-planetary-filter.html

2 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

Colour? Come now, that is precisely what a camera can capture. These are natural colour RGB.

 

Olly

You know what I mean. The whole human eye experience can't be replicated by a camera and screen, at present. 

A camera can't capture the dynamic brilliance, colour and magic of a view through the eyepiece.  For the time being, a 'live' view can't be matched on bright objects like stars and star clusters, etc.

I get it. 😂

1 minute ago, Ratlet said:

The 28mm that came with the scope is pretty decent for widefield and if you are just getting going it will be ideal for a lot of stuff.

That's probably my most used eyepiece.👍

Was just talking about that today...

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/404394-averted-seeing-corner-of-the-eye-phenomena/

Some dew heater straps from Auntie @FLO, plus some heatshrink tubing from eBay for another astronomy gear related job. 😉

Thanks for everyone's input, as I was a bit dubious.  This comes from being a former "ghost hunter" who was and is still sceptical of the human senses.

I've always been a bit wary of 'averted vision', as it reminds me of 'corner of the eye phenomena'.

When looking at DSO's using this method, are we actually "seeing" them or is our brain just filling in the blanks that we expect to see?🤔

http://www.assap.ac.uk/newsite/articles/Corner eye phenomena.html

6 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

You are probably right. Using DSLR body on such scope is probably not recommended - but why not use mirrorless camera?

In fact - we might be expecting too much of a beginner. Perfect flats for mosaic?

Yep, that is no flats mosaic on ST102 (notice lack of chromatic aberration, who said fast achromats can't be used for OSC imaging?) taken from Bortle 7-8 skies with ASI185 - uncooled.

I think that while image is not perfect, many beginners would be satisfied with such result?.

Can I ask what the strange repeating square and dot pattern is, looks like a domino?🤔  Not the usual dust bunnies...

1 hour ago, pipnina said:

From my own experience, I can say that a 130-PDS (about as cheap as they come) is very good for the price. Once you learn how to handle collimation yourself it's pretty rock solid and trouble-free. Mine paired with the Baader MPCC did let some out-of-frame reflections through but for 350 for scope and corrector you can't complain.

I did find that it wasn't very suitable for a mono setup though, as the focuser is weak and the cost of upgrading it didn't make sense for the scope. All-in-all it is a strong recommend for someone on a tight budget!

I will say though that for some reason, even the step up to an 8" newt is probably a bad move on a budget. For some reason even though it doesn't sound a lot on paper, that weight and size creates a huge amount of flex. My TS PHOTON 8" F4 was a nightmare that I eventually ran from light-speed. I guess that larger than 6" newts are best left to more expensive, higher-quality models...

My 2p anyway. Adding this for any newbies reading the thread.

I've already got an 8" Newt, but not exactly EQ mount friendly!🙄🤣

8 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

As Peter says, above, a Newtonian is an inexpensive choice and will trounce an achromatic refractor for imaging.

An achromat really is not a good option.

Olly

But I love the challenge...🤪🤣

It looks like that the worm gear isn't engaging with the teeth on the cog below the dial.

Some will claim an achromat for AP is sacrilege, but to some of us, it's all we can afford!😱

3 minutes ago, geoflewis said:

I think you’ll be fine with what you’ve got for starters. Give it a try and good luck.

I already have. 😉

46 minutes ago, alacant said:

Hi

Stick a yellow filter, available cheaply, before the sensor.

A #8 will control the blue without removing it completely. A #12 or 495 long-pass will remove most of it.  Former preferred.

If you're looking for a software method, split to rgb, use deconvolution with stars+halo selected on b only, then recombine.

Cheers and HTH

I've got the Wratten #8 and it does help, it's the poor man's Baader Contrast Booster. 👍

I'm only dabbling with planetary imaging, compared to you guys. 😮

I've worked out that my Sky-Watcher Evostar 120 achromatic refractor, using a 2x Barlow and ZWO ASI 224MC camera, seems to follow this formula (I think). It gives me an F ratio of 16.66.

It would seem to be from what I've read that the Barlow that would suit me best, based on the pixel size of the camera is 2.24x magnification. I've got the BST StarGuider 2x Barlow, so that'll suffice. 

The Baader Contrast Booster seems to be better for reducing CA, than other Baader filters. Your mileage may vary.