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Posts posted by shropshire lad
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43 minutes ago, Elp said:
What version of PS have you got? The modern ones have a similar function built in, which you can try first. Alternatively starnet is free which you can also try. It's not essential, I still process with stars in the image.
I have the latest version 2023 , and what is the built in function please ?
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51 minutes ago, OK Apricot said:
I use StarXTerminator in photoshop. Very good plug in, does a great job of removing stars and leaves minimal artifacts if any. Really helps you focus on nebula, dust etc.
I have downloaded that plug in but it just crashes my photo shop.
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Is there a programe that will remove the stars from my image so I can play with the background.
Or may be even a way to do it in photo shop
Paul
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I have a Canon 80D and Skywatcher AZ-GTi in EQ mode (non guided), my question is which lens from below (and what focal length) would be best to capture NGC7000 in bortle 6 skies.
50mm f1.8
24-105mm f4
70-200mm f2.8
150-600mm f5.6-f6.8.
Also any tips would be appreciated e.g. shutter length (t) ... iso value ... advice on extracting the best image to see the nebula colour.
Thanks Paul
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@NoFlyZone, I took this image of the milky way a few years back from our B&B in Springdale Utah ... not too far from you I think .... we dont get skies that clear in my home town.
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Welcolm to the forum .... from a wet and windy Ironbridge Shropshire England ....
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do you have a link for this site please
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It will be 36 for you ... I live at latitude 52 so my wedge is set to 38.
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Yep .. one of the best.
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I always adjust mine to "9" as well, moves well then.
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Anyone got an answer please.
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Just purchased a CLS filter for my Canon 80D as I live in a bortle 6/7 area ..... my question is ;-
Do I do a custom light Balance before I start imaging or remove colour cast in post.
Thanks in advance
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Thank you for the detailed reply, it's much appreciated.
I am in bortle 6 area with a main A road street lights to my North East, East and South East and no view to the west due to a hilly treelined wood close
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Cut the actual star/nebula light therefore requiring a longer exposure or not ?
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Was it on batteries or power adapter when it died?
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6 minutes ago, Nik271 said:
I came to the similar conclusions some time ago, faced with ever increasing local light pollution:
1. Invest in smaller and portable scopes which are to be taken to dark(er) sites as often as possible.
2. Thankfully the Moon, planets and a few of the bright double stars are still visible.
3. Longer term, I have planted some fast growing evergreens to block as much of my neighbours silly lights.
and when all else fails: thick bath towel over head.
3. who's head yours or the neighbours ... lol
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I don't have a scope at all, just a Dslr and lens.
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Can Sky Safari workwith NINA ?
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Glad I read this, I thought my poor results in the last week was down to my technique or errors in setting up ....... mind you it probably was ... lol ... 😝
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19 hours ago, Franklin said:
Upside down and right/left reversed. You can get right angled adaptors which will correct the upside down bit, much like a refractor used with a diagonal.
Thanks ... so in the image below (View through polar scope) polaris is positioned between 8 & 9 oclock where through my camera lens (same as viewing with your eye) it should be placed between 2 & 3 oclock for true north.
Is this right?
Paul
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35 minutes ago, AstroNebulee said:
Nice 😊, hope it goes well tonight. I've not trued m102 before. I got 4 hours on M101 past 2 nights and trying a few cheeky subs on IC405 until it disapears over a neighbours roof, guiding is a pain tonight with the gentle breeze in my wind tunnel area. Then will go on Markarian's chain for a bit, good luck 👍
Yes and good luck to you also.
I was hoping to do M104 but my neighbours roof is in the way .... lol
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Just now, AstroNebulee said:
Brilliant, so pleased you've managed to sort it and your mount is performing well, good luck on your next outing 👍
Thank you... just set up to image m102 tonight.
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Obtaining focus
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
This may be a daft question, but it may not be so I will ask it...
If I get a nice sharp image of the moon (focus spot on) will that focus setting be good for every other object in the sky?. e.g planets, stars and deep space.
Thanks Paul