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Malpi12

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Posts posted by Malpi12

  1. 15 minutes ago, ONIKKINEN said:

     ASTAP, platesolve it 

     Thanks, yes I tried that but but never got  it to work, even giving it an accurate, rather than approx. location, - still "unsolved" :( so either it does not  like my non-round stars or I am doing something stupid ! I think I got the cats. downloaded, but perhaps not correctly !  I'll try again with some nice bright stars and shorter exp. , , 

    Meanwhile,  any chance someone with a dslr, and meter +/- ASTAP. could try the 50% histo method :) 

  2. This site is interesting
    https://pbase.com/samirkharusi/image/37608572&exif=Y
    Briefly : he derives m/sq thingy by the length of exp needed to get the histogram (in a jpg not  a  raw) to 50%. He  says the method was calibrated at a dark site but the calibrating device is not specified (or I missed it !)

    I wonder if anyone with a sky quality meter has evaluated this or similar camera type measures?

    Reason for my interest :
    Until now I have relied upon Mk1 eyeball to know how good the night is. However it seems a long time since I saw, unaided, the Andromeda Galaxy or the Rift in the Milky Way. Is it my old eyes or global warming ?!

    Also, after playing with fixed cameras on a tripod, my thoughts are turning to a tracking device and sub lengths.

     

  3. On 16/10/2022 at 00:24, glyderman said:

    I really don't believe I could be lucky enough to capture a dying star

    I remember some time ago reading discussions about the possibility of seeing (visible spectrum !) a GRB with amateur equipment, I thought that I remembered magnitude 9 as being a reasonable estimate, so I googled to refresh my brain-cell  and was astonished to find this :--

    GRB 080319B was a gamma-ray burst .... 06:12 UTC on March 19, 2008. ....a peak visual apparent magnitude of 5.7 and remained visible to human eyes for approximately 30 second....
    From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GRB_080319B


     

  4. Things to do when it is cloudy/raining outside - ponder upon the little bit of data one already has :)
    Are you sitting comfortably :-  

    More reading about this phase folding lark : the period does not need to be known in advance, it will produce a smooth plot with guesses near the correct interval, and a scattered plot at other guesses, more about that lower down.
    First we look at the linear time plot,, ,

    lin2.thumb.png.63becfb0309dec2f67728d20b1723690.png

    Even with the very limited data that I have so far I think we can have a guess at an approx. period. (hindsight is a helpful thing as well :) :) )
    It looks like my first obs. (27 Aug) was near a min, then three more, near days 15-19, 24-25 and 33-34 (pink)
    The first long, cloudy, interval is about twice as long as the following two, so assume that there were at least 4 minima in this 33 to 34 day period - the red line with an uncertain start point but a fairly well defined end between day 33 to 34.

    I say 'at least', but there could have been eight or 16 ! However there is no indication of a missed minimum during the reasonably filled last period.

    So, a best guess of between 8 (=32 days) and 9 days (=36 days) for the red seems reasonable ???

    It turns out that I need not have learned spreadsheets, my fav. Gnuplot also has a Modulo function., which makes it easy to generate many phase plots with guesses at the folding period

    I first chose 8, 8.2, 8.4, 8.6, 8.8 and 9 days. 

    1multi.thumb.png.60a8628769e700157d8d3365bb6319a8.png

    and Lo! the plots magically come together best at a 8.4 day period, how satisfyingly close to an actual 8.38 that is :) , , , or have I just introduced some severe observer bias with afore-knowledge ;)  I show a multiplot but can upload individual larger ones if anyone wants them.

    Trying to narrow it down with 8.35, 8.4, 8.45 etc. plots was less convincing - more data needed - I wish!

    • Like 2
  5. Using my Canon 60d to observe the variation of U Sagitta (an Algol type eclipsing binary) was quite interesting 
    https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/398978-u-sge/
    but so far I have only caught it going in to minimum, not out the other side ! Trying to time minima with British  weather I have decided is a mug's game ! !

    I found, in Burnham's Celestial Handbook, S Sagitta, a continuosly varying candidate nearby.  Much more convenient for occasional viewing between clouds. Bright and  a good  1  magnitude range.

    A month of obs  later I had this not very smooth set:

    lins.png.8e7d9aa677684ce68b525dce9658611d.png

    However, with a hint by @IB20  and @robin_astro  in
    https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/395015-algol-variables/?do=findComment&comment=4277498 I delved into the rabbit hole of Phase Folding, learned how to code it in LibreOffice, and produced this quite interesting phase diagram.

    phase.thumb.png.5b877d16d53218878dea425d25e7913e.png
    A wiki page
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S_Sagittae
     on S Sag  has a plot which, when resized and overlaid in  Gimp, is a nice (I think !) match.

    phase2.thumb.png.ba9b42b0c491c726f1f00116c8cc5c0d.png

     

    Some brief details of my home-brew method  (a  full description would be a bit tldr!)
    images were variously stacks of 10 to 25 subs in DSS, camera fixed on  tripod, vintage lens 135mm @ f2.8, exp 2sec, 800iso
    magnitudes estimated in Gimp using a 10x10pixel aperture in histogram mean, then in Gnuplot I fitted the data with a 1/x^2 curve to match the aavso comparison stars between m3.8 and m7.8.
     

    • Like 6
  6. 17 hours ago, JeremyS said:

    Slide 5 is the answer !
    " using   5second exposures
    lOOmm lens (58mm aperture) down to 8 magnitude
    200mm lens (72mm aperture) down to 10 magnitude
    "
    The clue is "aperture". yup! that makes sense 

    From Wiki  n=f/d for things far away

    or in my case  d=f/n
    d=28/2.8=10mm
    d=50/1.8=28
    d=135/2.8=48

    So yes, as you said, I should stay with the 135.

    Thanks.
     

    • Like 1
  7. my first go at an Eclipsing Binary, Data from night of25/26 Aug

    Using a DSLR camera (60d) with a 135mm lens on a fixed tripod.
    I didn't know what to expect so I collected bursts of 25 exposures ( each 2sec at f 2.8 iso800 ) at intervals from about 11pm through to about 3am when trees stoped play !

    to speed processing  time and  for a first look, I choose samples of 5 subs at  suitable intervals from the whole set.
    In Gimp I used the histogram-mean tool 
    (with a rectangle selection of small size to just encompass the stars without too much background noise)
    to measure each star and plotted the results in Gnuplot.

    I was surprised at the sharpness of the entry into the long minimum phase of the eclipse.
    Gnuplot has a crafty tool to enable a 'best fit' of a polynomial function to a set of data.
    I have chosen a 2nd order quad g(x) for the fade and a constant f(x) to fit the min. data.

    EDIT : the x-axis is in decimal hours, local midnight bst is at '2' hours, the y-axis is in AAVSO style magnitude (m x 10 ) so eg. 80 is  m8.0.

    A_dat.png.c51525a8528744ebf349a4f854e2a02d.png

    • Like 1

  8. , , or should the title be Photometry of variable , ,

    My setup : a camera with lens on a  fixed tripod (pan & tilt, no tracking)

    Should I use (A) 135mm (telephoto-) lens to get "close in"
     or (B) a shorter lens, perhaps a 28mm wide-field ?

    I have been doing A, but that allows only short exp. of 1 or 2 sec  to avoid too much trailing.

    Now, over a cup of coffee I got to thinking (! an unusual thing I know :) )
    With A  all the precious photons get spread over many pixels
    whereas B they get concentrated on fewer ?
    135 and 28 have f=2.8 or a 50mm f=1.8 , all are vintage (1960s) M42 with poor to horrid star shapes !  Camera is a Canon 60d (lots of small pixels ??)


  9. I mentioned in @IB20 's Algol topic that U Sge looked like an interesting target with a sharp swift eclipse might fit into an evening/night viewing. I was mistaken  ! :-

    With Stellarium helping and a few tripod shots with Canon 60D + 28 & 135 vintage lenses I found my target at about mag 6.5 a few nights ago.

    So far so good, then the task of extrapolating the one recent AAVSO obs  on 29July. Using a period of about 3.38d  x8 brought me to yesterday evening. Just as I had completed my back of envelope calculations 11pm, I found there was clear dark sky  and  Lo! a few more quick shots revealed it down at 7.5m  already !
    I followed until 3am (when it went out of view in trees) at about 8.5m ( EDIT actally on closer inspect about 9.09 ! see later post ) or thereabouts, I still have not processed all the images,

    Such a long duration minimum (on closer inspection zooming the avsso obs confirms it) surprised me and implies a much larger dark companion, in proportion, than in the case of sharp Algol.

    I am surprised that it has not got more obs on aavso given its prominent position in northern skies,what am I missing ?
    Nicely placed near M72 [ediit: M71 init :) doh!] and the The Coathanger, always nice to see.

    • Like 1
  10. On 17/06/2022 at 17:34, IB20 said:

    ’m doing naked eye and may try binocs for July.

    Need a new target now…

    Very nicely done @IB20 , very interesting. Have you found a new one yet?

     From @JeremyS's link this one (sort of a bit below and left of Lyra) in Sagitta looks interesting for bino (or in my case dslr on tripod because my eyes are very old !)
    U_Sge,  Max, m6.5   Min2 m6.7   Min1 m9.3   Period, 3.38d  Dur, 14h
    a swift sharp fall to min1, and a rapid interval should give us a chance between storms !

    • Like 1
  11. 1 hour ago, cajen2 said:

    and the universe is in steady state.  There's be cosmologists leaping out of windows all over the world! 🤣

    I am sure you meant only some of them, the others of us who fondly remember Fred Hoyle will have a big smile :)

     

    • Haha 2
  12. On 15/08/2022 at 15:07, Iasus said:

    DSS shows them as "Gray 16 bit" and correctly IDs the camera.

    Hi, I am still trying to get my head round the Imgur page (it is asking me to take more cookies and whitelist my adblocker ! (neither of which I wish to do on this browser )
    However :) a quick look and I have got your settings image off it (dont you just hate message boxes in programs that dont let one copy/paste !)  and examined in IrfanView, see lower down :-

    Firstly - I am still a beginner imager with a 60D (astromod) which is similar to the 600d and, after a steep learning curve with DSS, a long time ago, I do get colour ! I was surprised to see "Gray 16 bit " Ah ! I thought !! but it tuned out to be a red-herring and mine also says that ha ! so I have learned something thanks :) 

    So then I compared your settings (on the right below) with mine which (after I removed my bias frames and allowing that I am using Kappa-Sigma clip) looked similar to yours except for the Red Arrowed bits.
    I wonder if that may be a cause ?

    image.jpeg.feedc1ec13c79590c43b13d46ff48466.jpeg

  13. On 12/08/2022 at 16:40, Mandy D said:

    Ah, good old VLC. Looks like that might be what I need to get started. I'll see if I can grab a few minutes of video tonight.

    VLC is very good but a bit of a steep learning curve, which my old brain needs to relearn each time I need to use it :) !

    An alternative for MOV to AVI is VirtualDub, which is also freeware. ( It can do lots of other things as well, like brightness/contrast/crop and more plugin effects )

     

    On 12/08/2022 at 16:42, Steve Ward said:

    The MOV files are just a stream of JPEGs and very compressed.

    Interesting, I didnt know it did jpeg, that explains why the files are so much bigger when converted to AVI !
    I wonder if Canon is limited to only MOV !?
     

  14. On 03/07/2022 at 11:54, pystab said:

     the glasses-on-glasses-off hokey-cokey is very irritating,

    I'd like to know what other solutions may exist for this problem!

    Yes, very irritating.

    Buy cheap reading glasses from the £1shop (actually £1.50 !)
    Remove one lens from the glasses for your scope looking eye.
    Use the remaining lens side for your reading eye.
    Works a treat for me.

    For the future, to do job : add a flip-down dark patch to preserve the dark side (to save having to remember which eye to close 🤣:)  )


     

    • Like 4
  15. 6 hours ago, Jiggy 67 said:
    Sunshine said:

           Imagine what the corrector looks like"

    Wasn’t that a John Lennon song? 

    :) and 50y on we are still trying to imagine it :(

     

    4 hours ago, Mr Spock said:

    It's the Meade of Kintyre by the look of it...

    Or   Lovely Rita Meter Meade

    " Lovely Rita meter maid
    Nothing can come between us
    When it gets dark I tow your heart away " ....

    • Haha 4
  16. 43 minutes ago, feverdreamer1 said:

    that method and test it out. 

    It is good for star-fields and small nebulosity  but wipes out wide nebulosity which it thinks is background !

     

    41 minutes ago, feverdreamer1 said:

    Ill add my final edit too, played with curves and levels, a bit of saturation and crops here and there:

    I like it, good rescue :)

    • Like 1
  17. 57 minutes ago, feverdreamer1 said:

    Alright, have been touching sliders here and then and reached to this:Looks much better, but theres still that vignetting, will continue messing with it hahaha

    some further messing in Gimp for you to try  :- construct an artificial flat,
    Duplicate the image to a new layer then with with Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur choose a size in both X and Y which is a large fraction of your image pixel  dimensions
    Change its Layer Mode to Subtract then merge down.

    Here is a quick first attempt to illustrate possibilities (it is a bit heavy handed !) using size 500 in both X and Y

    I have cropped the margins as this method creates edge artifacts where the blur runs out of ststistics.
    happy gimping ,,,Im no expert, give it a whirl,,, 

    01s.thumb.jpg.eb0f8188586225b02ea97347f91ee9b5.jpg

  18. 5 hours ago, happy-kat said:

     delay is only the gap before the first frame taken,

    Good point !
    In my previous posts I said "delay between exposures" >> To avoid confusion I should have said "interval between exposures"

    They say a picture is worth a thousand words!, does this help.
    My wired   (if anyine wants pics of a wireless one let me know)    'ometer set for a start-up delay of 4sec.   3 bulb exposures of 15sec each   and a write-enable-delay-interval-wait of 5sec.
    Vals.jpg.be98a82f99057296c4e474f1ec31fcbc.jpg

    • Like 1
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