Wyvernp
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Posts posted by Wyvernp
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Wow, that's a hell of a rig! I like the idea of mounting on the roof, I'm plagued by trees from my garden and have been thinking the roof would be a good vantage point. Did you need planning permission for that?
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I integrated it into my homemade powerbox.
12v goes into the powerbox then I use
a dc-dc adaptor to step down the voltage https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Converter-Regulator-12V-Stepdown-to-5V-3A-15W-Car-Power-Supply-Module-UK/142407861263?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
which plugs into the back of the usb hub.
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I cheaped out on my USB hub and bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DWEQGIK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_PH56Eb06JA5EJ although I had to power it for it to work properly. Probably wouldn't recommend one as I may have just gotten lucky with mine but I run both cameras and mount through it with no issues.
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Already posted in another topic but I’ll update this one as it’s a bit more specific to these filters. Received my Oiii today, well packaged and am impressed with the attention to detail of not only that but the black seal on the edges.
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There’s not much info on these guys filters out there at the moment but I thought I’d take the plunge and buy the Antlia 3.5nm Oiii filter. If it works out I’ll probably look at replacing my Baader 7nm Ha and sulphur too.
came nicely packaged in a magnetised case, decent looking sealed edges on the filter itself. I look forward to using it!
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Beardy, as I understand you are using a Nexstar 8se and standard mount. Being one of those that started imaging with this scope and mount I can tell you it's no picnic for deep sky. I've not had the chance to use it for planetary imaging.
I too was very new to astrophotography and I have researched and researched, from learning how cmos cameras work to how different scopes affect which sensor and pixel size to buy and I'm still very much a beginner but I'm happy to walk before I can run.
Reasonable images can be had with the 8se and standard mount, I used a micro 4/3 camera and a max of 10 sec exposure time for each image. (the 0.63 reducer works great too as it will reduce the required exposure time)
As freddie said deciding what type of imaging you want to do is incredibly important as it will influence what gear you invest in.
Just my 2p
Wyvern
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Well I've ordered the Oiii, It won't be parfocal with my baader ones but I'm not too worried as autofocus will take care of that. And besides I'll probably replace the baader ones if these are any good.
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No one?
Just found a good review here https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/689752-antlia-narrowband-filters/
Might give them a go.
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Mornin'
I've been trying to get hold of the baader Oiii 4.5nm however it seems that there are none anywhere in 36mm. In my searching I came across these
https://www.365astronomy.com/antlia-ultra-narrowband-3.5nm-oiii-filter-36mm-unmounted.html
Has anyone had any experience with them?
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I think this could be to do with a very bright star just out of frame, based on the location and the angle of the light i'd guess the star Acrab.
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Just taken delivery of my new imaging/processing laptop.
Ryzen 7, 8 core
16gb ram and a 1TB nvme drive.
would have gone with a desktop but like the practicality of being able to travel around with my Astro gear.
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Just now, wornish said:
Where did you get the print from.
my-picture.co.uk
I think they are based in Germany but they arrive pretty quickly. Not always in great condition sometimes but I have never had any issues getting them to reprint the damaged ones.
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Decided as they were on offer at £30 For an 80x60 I thought I’d get an aluminium print done. Not sure it’s done the small details any favours but it looks ok.
actually they come out better in the photo of the print 😂
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Just been looking at this area of the sky in the SGP mosaic planner. I can see myself spending quite some time in this region.
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That's really something special.
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Hmm, I've not used any LP filters for visual but as you've asked about a camera in different thread I'd recommend maybe getting one that you can use for both visual and photography.
Maybe something lie this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/astronomik-cls-filter.html
***Disclaimer***
I'm not sure what size your imaging train is, so be sure to make sure it will fit.
As for the moon filter, I just use the 1.25" bog standard celestron one. Having a deeper look at it, I like the look of this as you can adjust the amount of light that is passed through.
Hopefully someone with more viewing experience can give some more concrete advice.
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Do you want them for viewing or for astrophotography?
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+1 for the dslr if you have one. If you go ahead you'll also be wanting a bahtinov mask for focusing.
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19 minutes ago, Adreneline said:
Hi.
- Unzip the contents of the StarNet++ zip file and copy all the files to the bin subdirectory within the PixInsight subdirectory (C:/Programme Files/PixInsight/bin on my Windows laptop).
- Open PixInsight and goto the Process menu and select Install Modules...
- Browse to the bin subdirectory and click on Search and select StarNet from the list.
- Click on Install
In my case the StarNet process appeared in <Etc>.
HTH
Adrian
P.S. I gave up trying to use it on my MacBook - too much hassle using the command line option and the install option is not available.
Exactly this if you use pixinsight, although just one thing to add, and where I went wrong is that the default download won't work with pixinsight. You have to download from here https://sourceforge.net/projects/starnet/files/PixInsight_module/
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Hi Mick,
Are you using it from within pixinsight? or from the commandline?
Wyvern
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21 minutes ago, MartinB said:
I've tried and failed in the past to pull out the dust around the Iris. You've done a great job here and I suspect your skies aren't that dark.
Thanks! No such a thing as dark skies this time of year
I'm told I'm around a bortle 5 although I suspect its more like a 6.
I'm not sure what I did to bring the dust out so much, I think starnet++ helped a lot as I could remove the stars, mask off the bright nebula core and run some Multiscale linear transform on the dust areas and then pixelmath the stars back in.
I'd love to have a bit more definition in the nebula core too, maybe at some point I'll run some 2m exposures when the nights close in.
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Ahh good point! I tried integrating the luminance subs but they also didn't seem to change the image at all. I'll probably try again with both them and the 30s ones.
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There are a some 30s subs, about 20 of each lrgb but they didn't seem to add anything so I did not include them in the final stack.
I would have liked to get some more data but the nights are so short...
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If anyone has any constructive feedback I'd love to hear it.
A couple of things I've already addressed/am addressing
The stars in the corners are elongated, these subs were taken with the wrong backfocus adaptor, this has now been fixed.
The focus is maybe a little bit off, especially in the blue subs, this caused blue rings around the stars which I have toned down in this photo. I've just bought a dial gauge to more accurately calculate the backlash on my focuser.
Anything else you can think of? More subs? Different exposure times or gain? These were all at 300s at 139gain.
Dual-band, tri-band, quad-band nebula filters
in Imaging - Tips, Tricks and Techniques
Posted
In theory there is no reason one can't have both, taking some RGB frames along with your narrowband and using starnet++ to extract the stars from them and pixelmath them into the narrowband images. Planning on trying this myself over the next week with the veil nebula.