Wyvernp

 Well, feeling a bit frustrated with my full moon Ha subs being a bit washed out I pulled the trigger on the 3.5nm Ha's. I think next month I'll get the SII then I'll have a full set. It means I'll be putting mt Baader ones up for sale.

I'll have a look at those, thanks!

I'm definitely interested to see how the one I ordered turns out. £47 for a 102x72cm dibond print is very cheap and if you want a whole wall I think they can go up to 3m wide.

I probably would print my own but I tend to get my prints done on aluminium as they are nice and easy to wall mount without frames or excessive use of spray mount to get them to stick to a board.

Having a quick google of Baryta paper it looks like printing paper has come a long way since I last did any, would be good to see some of the results when you use it.

Afternoon all,

I guess this should go in the imaging topic as well... us imagers have lots to print!

Up until now I've used mypicture.co.uk for my prints but always wait for an email offer and have been pretty happy with the results but have had a few damaged during shipping which have all been replaced whenever I raised a case.

However I have put through an order with https://www.pixartprinting.co.uk/ as their prices seem a lot more reasonable without having to wait for discounts. It looks more geared towards commercial use, however this seems to allow a bit more flexibility in terms of choosing the dimensions of your print.

It's due to arrive on the 13th so I'll update this thread as and when i receive it. However I'd love to know if anyone has used this supplier before.

Wyvern

Also hoping to snap some images this month, not sure how well it will work on my mono+RGB filters but I'm going to try if weather permits.

Ideally the night of the 10/11th where my framing would also include the broken heart cluster, although not the most interesting of the open clusters it would add a little something extra. 

I am also fighting the same issue with my GT81, even with the field flattener. It seems very sensitive to backfocus. Waiting for a clear night to have another play now that I have my calipers out.

3 hours ago, TerryMcK said:

That's settled it! Also your good experience with the OIII. They look like they are at the top end of the mid tier and are worth while experimenting with. I'll order the Ha.

Let me know how you get on with the Ha, I currently have Baader 7nm Ha/ 8nm SII and will eventually look at replacing them with these

Utterly stunning, I can only hope do do something like this someday.

I think you've done a lovely job on that, especially with an uncooled sensor in this heat. Were you using any filters? 

Stunning! Lovely smooth but well defines dust. Love it!

2 hours ago, Beardy30 said:

Many threads arguing decent images are possible 

Definitely possible, although decent is a subjective term. 

17 hours ago, GiorgioF said:

Good one. Try also on nebular subject. There you can have a more impactful effect.

I just did this as part of the processing for my veil mosaic, although I prefer it with stars it does have quite an impact.

That aside, the amount of money that you's have to spend getting the 8se to a point where you can get really good images is probably the same as buying a new scope specifically for that purpose. Have a search on youtube for Chuck's Astrophotography, In his early videos he was using an 8se and you can see the modifications made to it to get the images that he did from it.

An OAG is an off axis guider. Rather than using a separate scope and camera it splits off some of the light from your imaging train and uses the stars in that image for guiding.

37 minutes ago, Beardy30 said:

Quite a few comments I’ve read that the se is capable of some reasonable imaging 

It is but with caveats. Planets definitely, small galaxies also possible with excellent tracking (probably with an OAG as this will help with mirror flop) and a lot of integration time. It is also very difficult to focus manually so I'd recommend some sort of electric focuser, preferably one capable of autofocus. 

Most nebulae are too big for the focal length of this scope however planetaries are possible with excellent focus, tracking and integration time.

The stock mount in my opinion is not suitable as you are already approaching it's limits in terms of weight. I'm also not sure if you can autoguide the 8se mount.

Coming from someone who started imaging with the same scope, it is hard and there will be a lot of disappointment along the way, however there will be times that you will nail it and get some decent images.

I now no longer image much with my 8se and just use it for visual, I'll probably set it up for imaging when I want to try and image the iss and when the planets are a bit higher in the sky in 2023.

edit. some examples of 8se pictures.

https://www.astrobin.com/162412/?page=5&nc=user

https://www.astrobin.com/mbaf4l/?page=5&nc=user

Well, despite a few setbacks here is the "final" mosaic, I say "final" because there is no doubt I'll revisit it often.

well I've had a bit of a play and things are looking better but still needs some work

Good work! Although as soon as you mentioned you were after the linux version I knew it wouldn't be long before we saw the results.

Oh by the way, I'm always happy to share my imaging data if anyone wants to practice with it. 

4 minutes ago, GiorgioF said:

Nice? Oh, thank you! Living in a high pollution area, with really few chances of clear sky, I try to get as much as possible from my poor data.

The starless version is done in pixinsight with the starnet+ process. It's a sort of plugin as it's not included in the main software but it's fantastic.

There is a standalone version too, not used it as I'm a pixinsighter... 

available here https://sourceforge.net/projects/starnet/files/v1.1/

I think theres a pretty good thread on it here

I'll definitely keep this topic updated on my progress.

7 minutes ago, MarkAR said:

How will sigma clipping cope when you have multiple trails, possibly re-inforcing each other on different subs?

That is a worry, I guess it will depend on the orbits.

1 minute ago, carastro said:

Well once I get my 3nm Oiii I might be up for selling my 8.5nm 1.25" Baader filter, but how long is a piece of string?

Carole 

Twice the distance from the middle to the end 😛

I have ended up going for the Antlia 3.5nm range. Decent pricing and the results are really good. I Should mention that I went for the 36mm ones as it gives me options if I want to upgrade my scope/camera however these seem even rarer than the others.

1 minute ago, SteveBz said:

Actually, possibly QHY too. I've tried both manufacturers and they both work eventually.

Personally I use a QHY163m and am very happy with it. very little noise, no or unnoticeable amp glow and it uses the same sensor as the ASI1600. Although I think the drivers / software is a little less polished than the ZWO range. But it is considerably cheaper.

For your 1000mm focal length you should be fine with a guidescope as long as its focal length is no  around 4x less than the main scope, and even then it will depend on the pixel size of your cameras.

Have you check astronomy.tools? they have a good ccd suitability calculator which you can use to match up your scope to camera.

19 minutes ago, carastro said:

Baader 8.5, as said best to keep to the same brand.  

Carole 

I'd definitely second this, I have mismatched filters and it causes no end of focus issues when switching. Now I'm going to have to spend a load more money on replacing the mismatched ones.

Although Baader filters are as scarse rocking horse poo at the moment.