SimM

My Newtonian OTA has an aluminium plate attached at the mirror end with three tapped holes in it. It is on the opposite side and opposite end to the eyepiece. I never used the three weights that are each 500g to observe. If I tried them, the balance point moves 0.5" to 1" down the tube e.g. it's not significant. With hindsight (and I never thought much about it until now) I realise this is to balance out around the OTA e.g. add a camera etc. and it can be balanced by using the weights. Simon

Yes - absolutely and it seems really good. My "intended" scope has a weight of 6.5kg - well within the spec. Initially I will use it with my large but lightweight "old" newtonian that has a weight of 10kg. My current project is fixing my old mount to the Vixen mount - bought some M6 bolts and will be drilling and tapping the dovetail and scope mount plate tomorrow. First light with the new mount/old newtonian pending clear skies, of course! I referred to the USB port on the hand controller *** I upgraded it easily on my Mac (Bootcamp) with Windows 10 *** I used it with a printer cable to upgrade the firmware to latest level - so no need to have a serial cable to make an update. One small surprise was the RA setting circle. The Declination circle is easy to understand - set the latitude and adjust it and lock it. I can't figure out the RA setting circle - it can be locked on one side (so isn't too stable unless the polar scope cover is kept tight). When it's locked at 0 RA, it can be screwed in firmly but it can also be locked at any RA. However it doesn't rotate with the RA movement. Perhaps there is a reason for this, but I expected the setting circle to rotate so that it could be used to star hop. If I release (or remove) the locking bolt then it rotates with the RA movement - but it also slips so it can't be relied upon. The instructions (I read everything) uses it for calculating Polaris but the SynScan computes this angle anyway so it's not needed for normal use. Perhaps all Sky-Watcher mounts are like this? Am I right unthinking the operation of slewing the scope is independent of how the locking bolt is used e.g. no harm can come by leaving it tight, locked or loose/removed? Simon

You are right! I noticed that the charger changed from green to red very quickly. After trying it, the recharge time was also ridiculously quick. I had the unit replaced and now it has taken a long time to charge up. The problem may be with the charging circuit and not the battery so replacement is the only option. One way to ensure a good charge is to not plug the charger in and use a CTEK (or equivalent) “intelligent” charger connected to the clips. BTW, each clip only conducts on one side of the grip. I have one of these chargers already and they are quite sophisticated. Update The supplied charger delivers a voltage to the battery to charge it. When the battery is charged the green light changes to a red light. I measured the voltage on the battery e.g. across the red/black clip. When the battery is charged the voltage is about 15.9V with the charger plugged in and switched on. When the charger is switched off or unplugged the voltage immediately drops back to 14.5V and a few minutes later will stabilise at about 13.6V. This indicates two things. The first is that the battery is fully charged because it should be at least 6 x 2.2 = 13.2V. The second is that the charger (wall unit and internal electronics) does not switch off completely. Although it may potentially limit the current, it still puts a voltage across the battery so it will eventually degrade the battery if left permanently attached. An "intelligent" battery charger will charge a battery and eventually stop charging the battery, it then waits for the battery voltage to drop before trickle charging the battery until it's full. The "intelligent" chargers can be left permantantly attached and the battery will always be close to fully charged. The Halfords charger is not quite so sophisticated so leaving it permanently attached could be a problem. A good solution is to initially charge the battery for 18 hours as the manual suggests - this quickly (or slowly?) restores the battery to a fully charged state. After the light turns green, a voltage is still applied to the battery so there is benefit leaving it for the full 18 hours. After use, the battery should be recharged and using the supplied charger, disconnected when the light indicates that it's fully charged. Leaving the charger attached and switched on so that the battery voltage is elevated would not be a good idea e.g. it's not 'plug and prey' and is closer to 'plug and manage'. Better charging would be achieved using an 'intelligent' charger e.g. connected to the clips with the external charger unplugged/removed - this type of charger could be permanenty attached. Forgetting to charge the battery so that the voltage drops below 6 x 2.1V = 12.8 V will sulphate the battery and quickly cause it to fail. Leaving the battery on the supplied charger after it's charged could also potentially limit the useful life. Also, letting the battery fully discharge rather than topping it up after each use will also shorten the life. The chemistry of all lead acid batteries is the same, there are variations e.g. sealed and AGM batteries, but the operation is the same e.g neglect the battery and it will deteriorate. If a battery can be recharged 300x (more with partial recharging) then it is deemed to have achieved it's full working life/capacity. One potential problem with lead acid batteries is leaving them on a damp concrete floor at low temperatures - this is avoided with the Halfords unit because it's contained in a plastic housing and so is at least insulated from the floor. Simon

Setting up my new HEQ5. The same issues are present (by design) on RA setting circles on the other mounts? Instructions missing for RA setting circle thumbscrew Can the RA setting circle actually be used as a normal setting circle - it seems just "cosmetic". It's either locked or slips when free to rotate. Simon

I should change this from “buying” to “using“ because my new HEQ5 arrived today! I would have been disappointed if it did NOT have USB because I checked with OVL before ordering it from RVO. I would also have been disappointed if the USB couldn’t be used to drive the scope e.g. not just for firmware updates. My laptop and PC don’t have serial ports and I’m not wanting the unnecessary expense of a USB serial adapter cable. The Sky-Walker website doesn’t contain the latest manuals so it’s not easy to see what you get. So my new HEQ5 is supplied with a HC SynScan V5 controller. The manual is SSHCV5-F-1708V2EN. The manual for the Mount is for HEQ5/EQ6. It is 130405V1. It has a 2nd part for the German equivalent. There is also a single sheet update for the polar scope. The supplied one is the same as EQ6 e.g. it has 3 rings for setting the year and a pattern for Southern Hemisphere but no star patterns ( these wouldn’t match the field of view anyway). It also has 0 - 3 - 6 - 9 like the pattern representing a clock face. The HC Setup confirms date/time/location and provides an “hour” for Polaris e.g. 09:25. This means that the polar mount alignment “calculation” using a slide ruler type setup is no longer required e.g. you simply line set the Mount with the declination set to zero e.g. weight is down and then use the hour of Polaris e.g. put the position of Polaris at 09:25. For 2020 that’s using the middle circle at 09:25. The traditional method of using the slide rule on the polar scope is also available or the SynScan has a polar alignment e.g. if Polaris isn’t visible. The ports on the mount are for Auto Guider and Hand Controller. There is also 12V power input. The ports on the Hand Controller are a Mount port used to connect the HC to the telescope mount and a multi port for a camera, GPS etc. There is also a USB port. The USB port is for connecting a computer. So no need to use a WiFi dongle or a PC link cable that connects to RS-232C (that most laptops no longer have). The USB port is also available to “talk” to the mount using the “PC Direct Mode” to drive the motor directly. The USB cable is Type B e.g. like a PC uses with a computer into the PC and the square (peripheral) is provided on the HC. The firmware of the HC can also be updated using the USB port when connected directly to a PC. Using the “PC Direct Mode” the same port can be used to update the motor firmware. There is still the option to use either the mount or multi port for serial communication. For these I don’t have the cable or a laptop with the D type connector. So to summarise the V5 HC keeps the Mount and Multi Port and adds a USB port that provides alternative methods of driving the mount or HC and for keeping the Mount and HC firmware up to date without requiring a serial cable. I don’t have a SkySense but it can be also directly plugged into the HC. Simon

@Merlin66 Good to know. I compared the first edition to the second edition. I searched for "new" things and (obviously) only found them in the new one e.g. RASA, ZWO, Hyperstar etc. but in general I found the sections I could see (at Amazon) were similar. If you have the first edition and want to see/read the differences with the second one, then see his website and in particular see the new "stuff" link: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/dslr/NewDSLR/index.html#Decade I now have the 1st edition which I like. Not quite at the point were I can appreciate the new stuff - I also read the changes (see link) and (for now) it's a bit confusing ... too much to take in. It's certainly a good appreciation of the subject without being too science orientated. Simon

I don't know the first thing about "dew" control. Is there any FAQ on how to manage dew especially when moving from a relatively immune newtonian? If I keep my newtonian scope in the house (heated and dry environment), what's the best way to take it outside e.g. in the winter months? Should I leave the eyepiece adaptor covered? Leave the scope cap on? Carry it outside and set it up pointing slightly down, leaving it to cool down e.g. 30 - 50 minutes? When bringing it inside, Leave the eyepiece out and the cap off. Carry it inside and leave it to warm up. Later, cover the eyepiece and replace the scope cap? I don't have either a refractor or SCT but plan to eventually buy these. Will I do the same as above (but add a dew shield cover when setting up an SCT outside)? Where is the optimum place to store a scope e.g. a shed, unheated garage, in the house e.g. an unused (unheated/low heat) bedroom? NB It's been awhile (about 25 years) since I used it (showing my age and (lack) of enthusiasm, until now... Simon

Is this book any good for "simple" astrophotography? Available at Amazon and recommended by R.V.O as well. I downloaded a sample from Amazon and it seems quite good and up to date IMHO. Digital SLR Astrophotography (2nd edition October 2018) Michael Covington ISBN 1316639931 I wanted a simple way to get into "casual" Astrophotography without too much additional expense and this book seems to have sufficient detail without being too technical/overwhelming. Simon

The battery is 12V 17Ah and the car clips are directly wired to the battery via a switch (see below) - so voltage and current are v. stable/dependable for a scope - hooray! There are six screws on the back. The battery is replaceable e.g. a Yuasa NP17-12 battery (180mm x 76mm x 167mm) is a drop in replacement, however the cost is £42 (Amazon), so the Halfords unit represents v. good value. Mod 1: The case has small slots beside the holes for the battery clips - for a "neater" look the cables can be disconnected and the cable ends passed through the hole/slots (requires a small spanner). Mod 2: If the starter cables are disconnected then the switch can be "repurposed" to allow quick isolation of the pair of 12V car ports e.g. Move the black wire from the battery to the other side of the switch. Simon

1. Doesn't the initial charge time depend on when the unit was made and how long it has been self discharging? 2. Transferring energy to a (dead) car battery will flatten it 3. Sky-Watcher doesn't show power when in use

Like a see saw - if it's balanced with two adults at each end, a child can push it up/down with ease. Likewise the motors would struggle if it wasn't balanced. Probably better to add weight to exactly balance it and best to make it balanced by extending the rails without adding weight. Some units work better with a loading so balanced and then a slight tweak to load it (probably best to consult the manual). Simon

The HEQ5 requires up to 4A at a low voltage e.g. 11V or up to 2A at a high voltage. That's worst case. The power used is much higher when doing work e.g. slewing. So I would expect the capacity to last a long time. It couldn't sustain a continuous high current for too long e.g. for a dew heater set with a high duty cycle. Simon

I signed up for the house "Night Sky: Orion". Course is available for another 42 days. I'm convinced that one's enjoyment of something is increased by what you know about it. Last time I learned Astronomy it was a 2 hour couse in a (cold/damp) village hall (here in Hampshire). FWIW there are other Astronomy courses e.g. the course on "Moons" which also looks interesting and in-depth (8 x 3 hours). Or Higgs Bosun and the universe. Search "Astronomy" in the search box on top RHS to get a list). Simon

This afternoon I placed an order for an HEQ5 Pro Mount. I wanted to get a portable PSU but I didn't think a Power Tank 7 Ah is sufficient or a 17 Ah is cheap enough. So this morning I "invested" in a Halfords 4 in 1 after reading about it here last night - thanks guys! The spec is quite interesting. It's a plastic case with a sealed lead gel battery (no spills) and has a good capacity/money spent, it's 12V 17 Ah. Inside is an "intelligent" charger and a 5V USB 500 mA supply for phones etc. Externally there is an AC adapter (looks unregulated) 12v charger. I suspect that it's really more than 12V in - otherwise the battery wouldn't easily charge up e.g. read 12.6V. They also supply a car connector to plug - looks to be the same as a Sky-Watcher cable. Only the PSU brick is labelled - the outputted for the connector isn't speck'ed. I will be checking it but I'm sure the polarity wouldn't be different (otherwise, it would be a problem to plug the cable into the input - a short if it was (incorrectly( reversed). The combined load for equipment is limited to 10A although it can supply much more e.g. when connecting to another (flat) battery. 12V 17 Ah, 10 A means it's a 6 cell 12V battery (like in a car) with a good capacity e.g. 17 Ah means 17 x 1 amp or equivalent. the 10A means that it an supply high current e.g. up to 10A for just over an hour and a half. There are at least four things to note from the manual: 1. The battery won't leak e.g. orientation isn't important 2. don't use it when it's charging e.g. suggests input PSU isn't regulated 3. output is going to start at 12.6V and eventually drop to about 12V (a car battery is the same) 4. don't let it go flat (the technology isn't like a marine battery - so keep it charged 5. don't expect to start a car using the battery (connect to a 2nd battery and let the power transfer across e.g. wait a short time) NB points 4 and 5 will cause problems for anyone who doesn't take the time to read the "manual". Halfords offer a 12 month guarantee and a 28 day money back deal. It seems a good deal - I paid £45 (asked for a discount). The needs of a HEQ5 Pro are a voltage between 11V and 15V and 2A at high voltage or 4A at lower voltage. NB this is only when "slewing". When "tracking" the supply will be a very small fraction of this to keep the RA in "sidereal" motion and the internals in readiness. 7 Ah batteries are probably more than good enough but 17 Ah is better. I may take a peep inside later... It has some advantages/disadvantage over a Power Tank: the PT won't display the voltage status when it's being used the PT can't supply both 5V and 12V at same time the PT has red light (better for the eyes and acceptable at a Star party if dim) - I will wait a week, put it through it's paces and only then "mod" it Simon

The connection to motor for control and firmware updates is now USB (I'm told). If that's true then updating the firmware would be easier for me.

Hi Carole I have been debating which mount to get to replace my Super Polaris mount on my (super lightweight) newtonian telescope for about a week. I first looked at Celestron mounts but quickly decided I liked the Sky-Watcher mounts more. I convinced myself that I should buy an EQ6-R PRO - very capable and popular (but also quite expensive) and super big/heavy. I read the Nexstar and SynScan manuals. It's my impression that the Sky-Watchers are reliable and technically advanced but that Next may heave the edge on usability over SynScan. So I looked at all the smaller models and searched for amateur astro imaging with Google and YouTube. I found some American influencers who get all their equipment given/discounted and wanted to find something closer to home. I was looking for evidence of successful use of the HEQ5 PRO. Perhaps you recognise this quote "An HEQ5 is also a good mount if you don’t think you will be buying a heavier telescope at some stage. Although heavy I have been extremely pleased with the performance and accuracy of this mount and cannot praise it highly enough". I decided that the price and features matched how I eventually plan to use my scope 9again after 25 years "astro' vacation) e.g. will be mostly for visual observing and eventually with a v. casual interest in imaging. From what I've read about astro imagine, it can be frustrating, expensive and very time consuming - there are many warnings that it's more about technique and lots of pricey equipment doesn't automatically guarantee success. I've scaled back my plans somewhat... I can't see myself diving too much into imaging. Anyway, it's now more about "walk before you run" time. I do have plans to eventually get something like an ED 80 which I think the HEQ5 PRO will be ideal for. The deal was done this afternoon. All being well I get it on Friday - it will be cloudy for another month now! Hopefully I will enjoy the new mount as GOTO and computerised (not just tracking) is all new to me. One difference with SynScan appears to be how it handles across the meridian. I see an option to manage it automatically or control it before the next GOTO - I have no idea if this "works". Perhaps Nexstar have a better method? It's interesting that the hardware is not the same and firmware is so different when I know it's the same parent company. Simon

Thanks Ken, Is the saddle the part that's attached to the mount and into this fits the dovetail that's attached to the scope rings? The "what's in the box" says with a vixen dovetail - but I wanted to be sure that one is provided. I'm learning that Astrophotography is much easier with a low FL refractor. Is the ED80 still produced? Does ED mean it has three separate objective lens e.g. good colour alignment of rgb? Thanks Simon

I want to get a GOTO mount for my newtonian scope. Originally I looked at a bigger Sky-Watcher EQ6 mount but I'm now thinking something smaller would be best. Otherwise it may be a bit too heavy to take out into the garden for me, so I'm looking at the EQ5 series and the HEQ5 Pro looks to be very good. I've compared it to the Celestron Advance VX which is priced about the same and like the specs for the Sky-Watcher. Some questions, before I buy a new HEQ5 Pro in the UK - I think the spec has changed very slightly as changes get rolled out: 1. Is the supplied SynScan HC a V4 e.g. star base of 40,000+ objects e.g. used by all the other Sky-Watcher mounts, it has been described as 13,000+ which may be a typo in the on-line literature? For me a few 100 would be OK... 2. Is the polar alignment scope built in (included) and does it have red (adjustable) illumination of the reticle controlled by the HC? 3. Is there a D Type connector or is it now USB e.g. to control/update HC? 4. For visual use, is a 10kg scope within it's workable capacity? 5. Is there a supplied Vixen (green) dove bar included in the box? It comes with 4 bolts to attach a scopes rings? I'm assuming it's not possible to use a Losmandy (wide) dovetail saddle e.g. only a (narrow) Vixen mount e.g. it doesn't allow for both types? 6. Discussion about a PSU suggests Halfords 17A car charger @ £50 is a good way to remotely power it? 7. Can it also be used for "casual" astrophotography as well as visual e.g. reasonable tracking? 8. Is there anything not to like about it or that you should be aware of before buying? Thanks Simon