joe aguiar

i never done it that way but i have seen people who just buy a 4 or 5 shelves and just put ots on it, you can put thin rolls of soft padding on it if you want padding.

joejaguar

8 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

I’m going to say no here, I think there is little wrong with the stock ed80 crayford focuser.  It can handle a FR, EFW and CCD.  It’s on the limit but ‘good enough’

I dont think it's good enough when sw had their apo evostar sale in Oct I bought the sw 100f9 evostar.  I bumped the focuser on the first night and it didnt work again.

I sold the scope. I even did a utube video explaining what happen.

It's great it comes with a dual speed to begin with but they r not great quality. I would say ok quality for visual maybe but not for imaging. 

A focuser can be like an acromat scope some find the colour ok while others think the colour correction is not ok.

Maybe u got a very good one where I didnt.but most people who do ap have to upgrade to a better focuser. 

If you feel u dont and like it that's fine too of course I cant speak for 100%  for everyone either but from my findings this is what I think

Joejaguar 

If your doing imaging then those stock focuser are not good enough. U need either moonlight or feather touch focuser. 

They are not cheap tho i paid $713 for my moonlight on my takahashi 102 TSA.

For visual it might be ok without a camera but even some 2 inch ep give those regular stock focuser slippage. 

It's kinda normal to upgrade the focuser if u do ap.

Joejaguar 

I also agree some of those pointers dont have enough slack to get it perfectly to the main scope.

Try aligning it at dat then again closer at night. As long as u get the object in fov in low power ep then that may be the best those kinds will get u.

If after a month or 2 it still fustrates u then u should get a rigel finderscope instead.

Joejaguar 

ohh ps

that auction I was gonna try to go for (meade #4000 full set of super ploosl ep and with case) I choose not to go for it. the seller only took payapal money only and I don't use palpay. and it got up to $155 last time I seen it so iam sure it go over $200 which would be too much cause then I would have shipping which was like $45 they wanted and customs duties and breakage fees. But anyway there no point to even try if that's the only payment he will take tho.

When I use my cc they don't charge me anything to use it Yes I know CC have fees too but if you keep no balance and pay it totally when the bill comes theres no cc fees. That other way I have to pay 3.5% everytime I use it then I say no thx

just updating on why I changed my mind from that other post I made I was gonna bid on them.

joejaguar

On 19/12/2019 at 14:37, Timebandit said:

 

Hi . I have never been a big fan of the Meade eyepiece.

If it was me and in your shoes. I would look out for some second hand TV plossls. Or some second hand BGO or BCO . quality optics on sensible money budget.

 

Hope this helps 

 

 

 

take into account the cost tho

in the last 2 months I also bought a full set of radians and almost a full set of TV plossls/ 32/25/20/15/13/11/8mm sizes. Even being used TV plossl they are not cheap.

the 32mm tv pl I paid $100, new they are almost $200

the 25+ 20mm I think I paid $75 each, new they are $150 plus taxes. etc

so just saying even used TV plossls are pretty expensive and since people know they are top quiailty name brand they don't lose a lot money, in fact like all quality item they lose % from a new item but not as much as a lesser quality name brand eps. and they sell ASAP they don't last long.

you can buy a used Meade #4000 same sizes for $30 to $40 each 50% to 60% cheaper or more then a TV pl.

even less name brand I have seen going even lower $20 to $30

In another tread it was said TV plossl costs 10x more then a regular pl do you think you will see 10x more?

anyway I think at the $30 to $40 each I think the meads 4000 are still good bang for your buck

joejaguar

yes that's correct 25 degree

so for someone trying to find polaris for example don't really know where it is, but you know the dig dipper. use the big dipper bowl stars with that degree its 28 to Polaris so 3 degrees more then your finger/thumb.

you can use these basic formula for any of the stars and don't have to worry about power wifi internet etc

joejaguar

yes if u have the same focal length then mag is gonna be the same since power is made from the focal length of the scope by the ep focal length of the ep

but that mak is a long tube since its f13.8 and that reflector is short compared to the diameter.

just in case someone says no the mak is pretty short length overall and that's cause its folded 2x, if unfolded it would be 3x as long, same size as a 90mm f14 refractor would be.

joejaguar

it doesn't have to be complex at all

even if the terms was manilly used for Ap it still has a purpose to tell someone if their scope is if you want to call it

fast is short tube

med is med long tube

or slow meaning the scope is long compared to size

it gives the new person an idea the ratio based on that size.  2 scopes same size collect same light BUT one scope will have a wider fov since its short the other can be highter power and narrow fov.

guess if u don't agree then we can disagree to agree then

cheers

joejaguar

9 minutes ago, alacant said:

No it wouldn't!

I think you maybe confusing camera lenses with telescopes.

View the same object at the same size in each telescope and it would be exactly the same brightness.

Equally: image the same object using the same camera at the same size and you would need exactly the same time on both telescopes to record it equally.

As @vlaiv recommends, don't say 'fast' [1]

Cheers, HTH and clear skies.

[1] but if you do, then please say what your definition of fast be;)

sorry iam not confusing them

I never said it wouldn't be same brightness did I?? both are same size telescope so brightness is same but if its f/10 the focal length and power would be different and in f10 the item would be much closer

As @vlaiv recommends, don't say 'fast' [1] I already explained whats fast and considered slow

joejaguar

we are talking about this in the other thread focal length HAS nothing to do with focal ratio

u cant just use a focal length if lets say 1200 and call it short or long byself as it has no meaning by itself. BUt once you divide by the aperture of a scope it then tells if its short med or long compared to the aperture.

(Interesting thing is that for 8" F/6 scope)  this scope per your IE is fast. This mirror in diameter x by 6 times gives you how long it is being IE it being f6

(6" F/8 scope) and this one is medium even tho both have same focal length. this one is 6" dia so its focal length is 8x the mirror giving u a f/8

in the mak its different again its f/13.88 making it long compared to the aperture and yes narrow fov

joejaguar

11 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

Interesting thing is that for 8" F/6 scope or 6" F/8 scope no one is saying it is high power narrow FOV scope - and most will qualify those scopes as ideal scopes for serious beginner - ones that can turn into life long instrument, but telescope with same focal length (ok, not the same but 50mm longer 1200mm vs 1250mm) is suddenly long focal length / high power / narrow FOV scope?

yes cause the maks 1250mm fl ON a 90mm is long on a 10" scopes its short

1250/90 =13.8 focal ratio equals slow and narrow fov

on a 10"scope that's 1250/250=f5 which is fast and wide field views

5 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

No, please, don't perpetuate that slow/fast scope - longer/sorter time to take the image thing as it is not true.

It just creates confusion, as a person can come and think, "look I have F/5 scope - that is supposed to be fast, and if another person with their F/8 scope can take certain image in 2h, I should surely be able to take it in less than 2h" - but that might not be the case, and people will have a wrong idea why they are failing to meet "fast scope expected exposure time".

 

I created nothing that's how it been for the longest time, short or long term was around since the slr camera. I didn't make up the term even tho it was created for the image its still used now.

a scope f5 takes half the time the time as an f10 this been true like forever.

people should also educate themselves, AP takes a lot time money and know how to get it right. 

joejaguar

I think the 114 is a better first  scope , not only cause its bigger you will see more.  But with the mak being slow telescope long FL high power narrow fov, it will be harder for new people to find items in it.

There will be lot items since it's high power small fov it wont be able to see.

So the reflector having a focal ratio that's smaller will be easier to find things in and the larger objects can be seen in it.like m45 and many other things.

Joejaguar 

2 hours ago, Brutha said:

Thanks, funnily enough I did try the fingers method and it sort of worked, no doubt I could improve the accuracy by calibrating my fingers!

I think I'll try the DIY inclinometer though, there is something satifying about building your own gadgets!

I mean theres a formula for the width of one finger with your hand stretched out is a certain degree. Your fist is another and your thumb to your pinky spread out is another degree . Did u learn this formula?

Joejaguar 

On 21/12/2019 at 09:26, Brutha said:

Hi All,

I still don't really know my way around the night sky that well, so I often have trouble identifying which star is which, relative to what I've seen in Stellarium etc.

One thing I thought might help is if I knew the elevation/altitude of the star in degrees, I could easily check that against Stellarium. I would like a quick and easy way to do this, without having to get the scope out etc.

So, I tried the "Measure" app on my iPhone, and sighting along the side of the phone worked very well! But it's a bit of a pain - you can't see the readout at the same time as sighting on the object you are measuring.

Does anyone know of an app which could give me the elevation read out while looking at the front of the phone? Then I'll 3d print a little sight to pop on the top of the phone!

Also interested in other suggestions for achieving the same thing!

Thanks,

Brutha

I would recommend the book night watch and a planisphere. 

Joejaguar 

9 hours ago, Alan64 said:

"Slow" and "fast" are photographic terms.  They do not apply to telescopes, per se; only when a camera is combined or contemplated with a telescope.  If you were to attach a camera to that 32" f/2.8 Newtonian, would an image be collected fast, or slowly, given the telescope's 2276mm focal-length?

It would be fast compared to a scope that's 32 inch f10 let's say.

And we always still use fast and slow term still to describe if a scope is short or long.

That scope being fast at f2.8 is also low power wide field making it fast for the pic, if it was f10 it be much higher power and closer view and more narrow making that image much longer to take.

Yes oringinal use was for camera but we still use fast and slow to tell us if it's short medium  or long. U cant just go by focal length alone cause as different scopes and sizes focal ratio will be different 

Joejaguar 

It's based on focal ratio not focal length so f2.8 is fast

Theres easier none teck ways that dont need a phone apps internet or wifi

Using your hands and fingers u can measure how far stars r or how high trees or houses r from the horizon 

Joejaguar 

7 hours ago, Alan64 said:

Newtonians: f/3 to f/5(fast), f/6 to f/7(medium), and f/8+(slow)

Refractors: f/4 to f/6(fast), f/7 to f/11(medium), and f/12(medium-slow) to f/20(slow)

Maksutovs/Schmidts: f/10 to f/15(slow)

That's what I said

F10 would be medium

F12 to f20 is slow

F3 to f5 fast

F7 to f10 med

Joejaguar 

no that's not a dob click on his link and u will see it

a dob just sits on a woden base (kinda like a lazy susan) if you guys use that tern over there in UK? and it sits on the ground instead of a tripod and mount.

joejaguar

theres still many factors to consider, each will have pros and cons

do you live in a house with a backyard? and if so will it be setup in the living room or somewhere close to the back room where yopu can just take it outside let it cool?

do you live in a apt/ condo type where you have to take it down in parts or carry out inside elevator to the outside? where portabililty is more important?

do you a scope that you have to colimate every couple months? scope like reflector dobs and sct needs this some more then others. this means both mirror have to be aligned for good views .

do you want to deal with this as a brand new person?

scopes like refractors norm are set so they don't have to.

ok so if you pick a dob 6" in this price range.

yes best bang for your price basically means biggest for the money. you will see the most with it but a dob needs to be collimated sometimes if u bump it travel with it or are rough with it. 

Its only like 3.5ft tall so even looking upwards you will be bending down and halfway on the sky you will be on your knees. You can get a small 2x2 table BUT it has to be sturdy if its not it will shake it and the scope. Plus this is another cost to consider. As I said b4 if you live in an apt/condo type then another item to carry out which may be a deal killer.It has no manual slow motion controls of any kind so you cant track the planet as it moves in the sky. at about 200 power and more the planet can be in the ep like 20 to 25 sec max. Do you want to keep pushing and pulling the tube every 20 secs? and I found the basic dobs Teflon is not smooth enough for micro movments at high power compared to a slow motion controls.

if its a reflector on a eq it prob be a 4.5" or 5.1" on a eq2 type. Don't get one that's on a eq1 that mount may be a tad too small. it too may need to be collimated every few months unless you are just putting it from the living room to the back yard without any hard bumps or with travelling with it. A eq mount may be abit harder to use at first BUt once u do I find it ok. even at the lowest height will be perfect for a teen or adult. BUT you have to get used to using a EQ mount as it has some weird angles and getting used to how to polar align too. It does have slow motion controls tho and u can put a drive on it later so it follows the planet as it moves. Of course that costs more about $50. make sure this kind has a parabolic mirror.

if refractor prob be a 80mmrefractor on eq2. everything is same on this mount as the reflector type. BUT you don't have to worry about align this kind it will be set. Of course a 80mm referctor will see a lot less then the 6" dob. The refarctor can also be used in daytime too, but you may need a low power ep and a 45 degree diagonal at extra cost of course but u have this option.

so there are the pro and cons there are probally bit more for each but that should be enough for you to decide whats type is best for u.

joejaguar

6 hours ago, bingevader said:

Just to leap to the defence of the Meade 4000 Super plossls!

I don't know what people are comparing them to, but I have the 9.7mm and 26mm that came with the ETX90 and both are splendid.

I compared the 26mm with my 25mm TV plossl and could not find much difference.

The Meade gives a slightly warmer coloured image and the TV plossl slightly better contrast.

I have some other Meade plossls, not all marked 4000 or Japan, or China and can't really find any fault with them either.

To counter the general Meade bashing, the ETX90 is a splendid little 'scope, an excellent grab and go and often comes on holiday with me.

Also, I've the 30mm 5000 and that's splendid too!

Maybe I've been very lucky!

i also think meade is fine.

my SW evostar 100f/9 apo focuser lasted one night then it didnt work any longer, i did a video on that scope etc, i did sell that scope few months ago but all companies have their good and bad products expecially when its a new product. Just look at the avx had lots issues first few years.

anyway i saw an add on bay for the whole set of the meade SP 4000 with case 9its the yellow writing) the last models have white writing anyway iam keeping an eye on it to bid so far its $53 cdn so if i win it then ill be happy but i expect it to go highter untill bidding stops. if it gets too high i may pass but if cheap gonna try for them.

joejaguar

I kinda liked those meade 4000 sp and I had the Japan versions as well

Joejaguar