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DaveL59

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Posts posted by DaveL59


  1. On 21/11/2020 at 14:38, Karen Johnson said:

    Stick with it, they are great little cameras but the menu format sucks!  I purchased a great book by David Busch.  He has written a series of guides for using Sony A series right from out of the box through and set up to working through every menu option.  If he does a guide for the A6000, well worth the money.  He gives recommendations on which settings to use and explains what they do far better than the Sony provided guide does.  I recommend it.

    may well do the same as I've now committed on an A77ii, once it arrives and I've had a chance to test it out I'll have a look for his guide as I see he has one for this model too.


  2. I have an IR illuminator ring off a camera that wasn't working, not tested it but they are regular old-style LED's rather than SMD type. If useful I could always remove a few if you want to try a few of those along the top edge. Will see if I can fire them up and check that they are the type that glow red as some don't.


  3. hi Glob

    as Mark says, likely in that lamp the LED's will be SMD, easy enough to desolder with a regular 25W iron if you don't care if they survive. Painting over the ones left with red nail varnish may do what you need and then a red film inside the lens, perhaps 2 layers of. Dismantling could be fun, hopefully it's clipped and not sonically welded.

    @Mark - when I needed to cull the IR for the cameras mounted behind glass what I found worked best was a layer of tin foil under a black felt pad, no stray IR bouncing off the glass. Perhaps similar on the casing would help with your build to eliminate the stray light, tho you'll need to be sure not to short the connections of course.


  4. ahh yes those vouchers certainly create an itch to spend 🙂

    A variable polarizing filter can be useful as you can increase the amount of blocking to suit the target (Moon, Mars etc).

    But as you have a moon filter and it perhaps is sufficient, an RA motor does help to give more relaxed viewing as it relieves you of having to be tweaking controls to keep a target in view.

    Another consideration perhaps, if you only have the supplied eyepieces would be to get a better eyepiece to replace the 10mm and also maybe the barlow. The 25mm is probably good enough but the supplied EPs are not the best. BST Starguider's are well recommended but one would eat your entire voucher. Vixen NPL are decent too.

    oh and welcome to the madhouse, oops forum 😉 

    • Thanks 1

  5. thanks Karen, nice to know they've fixed it. Nikon apparently used to suffer the same. I guess its a case of try it and see with regards to your A6500. For me the A7iii will be way above budget and I'm unconvinced on the compact-style mirrorless models as noted in another thread in the non-astro section where I was considering an A700. Am more leaning toward an A77 or A77ii now but yet to tap the buy button.

    For remote control have you tried Sony's Imaging Edge suite? I believe the A6500 should support live view on the PC when USB tethered as should the 77ii
    https://support.d-imaging.sony.co.jp/app/imagingedge/en/devices/#emount

    Smartphone app tho may well be more limited, for the 77ii it seems to act as a remote shutter release and not much more which is a pity.


  6. Hi Karen

    I've not tried with a camera as yet but I've been researching a new DSLR body and looking at Sony as existing gear was Minolta film so I wanted compatibility with the lenses I have. While trawling about I came across this

    https://petapixel.com/2017/05/04/star-eater-issue-no-longer-recommend-sony-cameras-astrophotography/

    Now I don't plan on doing much via the scope but might want to play a little so that rules out the mirrorless models to me, at least if you want 30s or longer exposures. Others may have already used this model tho and have different reports, worth posting which firmware yours has in case that gives any more info.


  7. perhaps an LED at each end would even up the illumination across the page a bit?

    I wonder too if roughing the surface of the tube would help diffusion?

    The 850nm IR LED's emit a red glow that doesn't light too much so may do what you need, tho taking a pic they'll still look very bright simply because the camera will react to the IR glow but our eyes won't of course. Downside could be that you'll also attract insects because of the IR so beware of a sneak bat attack if they start swarming around you 😉 


  8. The synscan will draw more power when slewing than tracking but 2A should suffice. I run mine via a 5A tho and that works well, or a LiPo car starter pack via a 5A buck converted to regulate to 12v. All the wall-wart and brick type PSU's will get warm, quite normal but hot is a different story as that means its too loaded.


  9. I'd test it with the supplied battery pack and see how it does. RA only should run for a good while off the 6v pack. Worse case, make up a rechargable one using 5x batteries in a 6x holder and bridge the 6th bay with a wire or dummy battery, NiMh rechargables should run a decent time and be low cost if you charge them up ready for use. No real need to try running mains out esp from a second floor flat - would that be dropped out the window?

    • Thanks 1

  10. The screws will always mark the dovetail on this type of mount unfortunately, you'd have to replace the head with a clamping type to avoid this but is perhaps not worth doing unless it is a problem that bothers you too much.

    The risk of inserting something to cushion the bolt end from the dovetail will be ensuring that you have things well clamped so that the dovetail doesn't slip or worse disengage and the OTA falls off the mount. Depending on the scope and accessories you use you may find you need to shift the OTA up/down to maintain balance. A very heavy eyepiece for example could change the OTA balance point. Having a filler piece between the dovetail and securing bolts could complicate that especially in the dark.

    • Like 1

  11. What sort of view are you hoping for, as Mars will look small in most scopes as will the other planets. You might be able to discern some detail in a larger aperture longer focal length scope but it'd still be a small disc. If your main interest is planets then perhaps something like a MAK like the SW127 would be a better bet tho it'll cost more.

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