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AnonymousAnimosity

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Everything posted by AnonymousAnimosity

  1. My first two pictures with this lens, Star adventurer and modded canon 100D. Stacked in Siril and quickly processed with StarTools. 72x120" lights at f2, calibrated with flats and biases 91x120" lights at f2.8 with l-enhance filter, calibrated with flats, biases and darks. Dark optimization in siril does seem to reduce pattern noise a bit.
  2. I would like to mount on this 30mm guidescope, it looks like it should fit even if I file the rear of the base.
  3. Today I finally picked up the WO redcat ring, sadly it clashes with my camera so rotation is impossible. I am not sure whether I should try to file it or just return it and buy something else.
  4. I've been using a star adventurer with camera lenses for some time and I was contemplating the same decision recently, I can offer a few comments on the scopes you have linked based on my limited knowledge. You will need a field flattener (more or less specific for each scope) unless you buy one that already comes with it, such as the TS Optics EDPH 61/274, so budget that in as well I have seen some good results from people shooting at focal lenghts over 300mm on a star adventurer, but keep in mind that your polar alignment will have to be spot on every time, the lengths of your su
  5. Thank you, since the Redcat ring is out of stock for a while I am looking for some alternatives. Mounting the guidescope to the support ring of the lens seems like the easiest way, but I'm struggling to find telescope rings of the right size, I can only find smooth ones (no holes to screw in a finder shoe). Perhaps drilling a couple of holes in these? I'm not sold on 3D printed PLA ones like astrokraken or astrojolo/ Do you know of any alternatives?
  6. I have just purchased this lens, I intend to use it with a Canon 100D on a Star adventurer (might swap it for an Az-GTI for mosaic automation). To mount the lens I will buy the William Optics Redcat ring and a short dovetail. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/william-optics/william-optics-redcat-spacecat-single-mounting-ring-black.html What is the best option for a guidescope? If I'm not mistaken this 32mm guide scope from FLO should be appropriate for my image scale. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/guide-cameras/astro-essentials-32mm-f4-mini-guide-scope.html Is it
  7. For now a raspberry pi running astroberry seems like a cheap solution to many problems, it should help with consistent focusing, faster framing and dithering to get rid of walking noise. I thought that stacking lights from multiple nights with slightly different framing would be akin to dithering but it doesn't seem to solve the problem. Undersampling seems unavoidable with a DSLR and the focal lengths I'm imaging at. But I will keep it in mind if I decide to upgrade the camera.
  8. I would like to take pictures of better quality where the background is smooth and fine detail is well defined when zooming in, something that would look good as a wallpaper or maybe even printed. I am aware that processing is absolutely key, but I don't think I can acquire data that is sufficiently clean and sharp to get the sort of results I have in mind. Another concern is maximising the opportunities to shoot, the amount of data I can gather (faster optics basically?) and the number of targets that I can frame up nicely (longer focal length?).
  9. I apologise in advance for the long post! Hello, I would appreciate some advice and perspective on finding the most cost-efficient way of optimizing my current astrophotography setup. I am in no hurry to upgrade as I have yet to push my current equipment to its limits, but I feel like I need a sort of long-term plan and sense of direction to keep myself from getting the "shiny new object syndrome" and compulsively browsing FLO whenever I see nice pictures. My first year of astrophotography was with an unmodified pentax K-S1, a tripod, a 50mm lens and very cold hands since the camera
  10. That is what I meant yes. I do believe we have the same lens judging by your picture. In the previous post the images of the three channels were in the wrong order, the out of focus one is red, so green and blue are very close. The filter definitely alters the focus across the 3 channels a bit, these are excerpts (R, G, B.) from a picture that was taken without.
  11. I have been using this lens for a couple of months and I've never managed to focus properly with liveview, maybe it would be easier with the camera connected to a PC. Yesterday I tried making a quick Y mask and realized that as you pointed out when the spike is centered the red channel is actually way out of focus leading to red halos around the stars. Maybe it would be helpful to still use the mask balancing the spike's position in the 3 separate channels? This is a comparison of the 3 channels of a quick picture from last night taken with a modified canon 100D and a clip in l-enhance fi
  12. Here's a picture of the Sadr region at 135mm (Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f3.5 at f4) with a modded canon 100D and the Optolong L-Enhance clip-in filter. 74x180" lights at ISO 800 plus flats and biases. Stacked in DSS and processed in startools, perhaps too aggressively. It was taken from a bortle 6 town a few days ago when the moon was almost full.
  13. What kind of power supply would you suggest for powering a DSLR in low temperatures (0 Celsius and below)?
  14. Thank you, it's easy to lose perspective of the quality of the images I capture when compared to more expensive setups. That said, I'm sure I can optimize both acquisition and processing far better.
  15. Hello, I have recently upgraded my astrophotography setup with a modified canon 100D, a vintage zeiss 135mm f3.5 lens and the optolong l-enhance filter. My previous camera did not support wired intervalometers, now I can finally just leave it outside at night. I have been lucky enough to find clear skies at home around the new moon (bortle 4 zone). The first target was the cygnus region, shot with a 50mm/f2.5 canon lens (m42 to EF adapter hadn't arrived yet) at f3.2. I took 36 3 minute lights at ISO 400. Looking at the red channel alone there is much more contrast and detail which I
  16. Yesterday night the sky was clear for a couple of hours so I got a chance to test my new modified Canon 100D. I bought a 135mm f3.5 carl zeiss jena lens but the adapter hadn't yet arrived so I shot with a canon 50mm at f4. Here are 36 180s light frames of cygnus shot at ISO 400. Processing was done in siril and startools. I am not fully satisfied with the outcome but I can't quite figure out what is missing here (apart from more hours of integration time, I was cut short by clouds). Any leads? I took 50 or so flat frames (camera in AV, smartphone with white sc
  17. Thank you for the input, I think I will buy either the optolong UHC or the l-enhance if I feel like spending more.
  18. I have done some more research on filters but I have yet to make up my mind on which one to buy. Is a UHC filter narrow enough to allow for acceptable results with a full moon? If I understand correctly the advantages of clip-in filters are blocking dust from entering the sensor and not needing adapters to use with camera lenses, is there something else? I noticed that sometimes 2" versions are cheaper. I have seen the optolong l-enhance mentioned frequently as a good filter for DSLR shooting, but the price is a bit steep, would the difference be significant compared to a cheap
  19. In my hometown I have fairly dark skies (granted the 3 minute shots were on a new moon and at f6.3), but I only visit about once a month and generally either the weather is bad or the moon is too full. The city where I study and live most of the time is much more light polluted, I have made some attempts but they turned out unsatisfactory.
  20. Thank you for the reply, I plan to use a camera lens (on my current setup I use a 70-200, I will borrow something similar for the canon) and eventually upgrade to a small telescope when I find a good deal. I aim for widefield views of deep sky objects. With a good polar alignment I have managed to shoot past 3 minutes at 200mm with about 40% discarded due to periodic error. I will do some research on the different filters, it seems that a light pollution filter or duo/tri band woud be more efficient than single bands as it would all the pixels, right?
  21. Hello, I am considering the purchase of a full-spectrum modded canon DSLR (I'm not set on a specific model, I found the 1200D for a good price) for deep sky astrophotography. Because of artificial and lunar light pollution I don't get to shoot as often as I'd like, and it seems that filters of some sort would allow me to collect data much more often. However, I am not sure whether it would be best to buy a hydrogen-alpha filter (and eventually add OIII and SII later on) or something like the IDAS D1. I understand the downsides of narrowband imaging (processing the different channels, long
  22. Here's my first attempt at M42 with a 70-200 f4 lens (at 200mm) from a bortle 4 zone. f6.3, ISO 800, 45x90" lights, no flats (I completely forgot, therefore it was necessary to crop the image drastically due to dust particles on the sensor) stacked in DSS and processed in Startools. I am going to shoot this again soon aiming for more integration time, hoping to bring out some dust.
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