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Fieldsy

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Posts posted by Fieldsy

  1. 1 hour ago, Adam J said:

    That is about what I would expect. I assume that's the focal length of the guide scope. What camera do you have currently is it still the asi178mm? 

    Yeah still the 178 , as long as that's the norm I thought the issue maybe the image train hanging from the side rather than the back .

  2. Hi all I'm using a EQ5 goto with asiair and 120mm guide and I'm unable to to get longer exposure than 90 secs without get star trails . Balancing seem as good as can be expected with the 130pds and the cam and filter wheel hanging from the side .does anyone else using the 130pds have a max time of exposure?

    Thanks Si

  3. Hi all I’m a little worried about the weight of my image train (coma corrector/filter wheel/Zwo camera) hanging on the two holding screws and any flexing the weight produces . Has anyone changed the way or the fixings to hold camera and equipment and if so pics would be greatly appreciated. Dovetailed t2 adapter, 3 locking screws , .

    thanks

     

  4. 9 hours ago, Gina said:

    I have an ASI178MM in my All Sky Camera and use Peltier TEC to cool the camera casing with water cooling of the hot side and reach -20°C with good results and no misting or frosting of the optics.  The camera has a thermal jacket and insulation to separate it from the outer casing and hot side of the Peltier TEC.  Though it might seem complicated, water cooling is very efficient and doesn't rely on drawing damp air through a fan.  The water cooling radiator, reservoir with pump etc. are inside my observatory with the ASC mounted outside on the roof.

    Gina I have done a little googling and water cooled seems very effective, but water cooling a scope on a mount seems very problematic, I have enough trouble with cables being tidy (ocd) the thought of water pipes and a tank with a pump is a little to freaky for me.

  5. Hi all 130pds owners .

    Has anyone changed the locking screws and ring for a better more secure one ?

    I've looked at the compression ring but that seems out of stock , I've been told a twist lock is more secure but requires a extra 10mm in focus which I'm down to a few mm left and already poking into tube.

  6. 2 hours ago, Gina said:

    I have an ASI178MM in my All Sky Camera and use Peltier TEC to cool the camera casing with water cooling of the hot side and reach -20°C with good results and no misting or frosting of the optics.  The camera has a thermal jacket and insulation to separate it from the outer casing and hot side of the Peltier TEC.  Though it might seem complicated, water cooling is very efficient and doesn't rely on drawing damp air through a fan.  The water cooling radiator, reservoir with pump etc. are inside my observatory with the ASC mounted outside on the roof.

    Oh Gina please post a pic I would love to see that.

  7. 47 minutes ago, Adam J said:

    You need a fan under it really pushing air up into it . I have seen people place an inverted dust bin over a pier and add forced air ventilation. That works much better than a cover. 

    https://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/advice/how-to-build-a-back-garden-telescope-pier/

    Would still add a fan even with a bin though. 

    Are you keeping everything out or just the mount?

    Well going by the amount of condensation I had even with a small fan inside I’m reluctant to keep anything out but my original thought was everything or at least mount and scope.

  8. Hi all I recently left scope and cams outside for a few days under cover ,I decide to just check and see how it is and everything was drenched with condensation.  So I'm now reluctant for the pier I'm building as the reason I want the pier is to reduce the amount of dismantling . Should I be worried about all the condensation on electrical parts in mount ?

  9. On 02/11/2019 at 21:42, Adam J said:

    The latest modification to my 130pds. The addition on a Pegausus Astro focus cube V2 and a new clamping system I designed to eliminate tilt cause by the eye piece holder (although not focus tube droop).

    The clamp works to pull the coma corrector tight up against the flat of the eye piece holder by placing two rings, one scope side and one camera side of the eye piece holder and then using three thumb screws to draw the coma corrector tighly against the flat. This method of longitudinally clamping the gear to the focuser is much better than any lateral clamping via thumb screws or a compression ring as it does not rely on the coma corrector being fully flush during tightening.

    Note: you need to mount the focus motor upside down and add a spacer or it will not clear the thumb screw that tightens the spider vein in place.

    focuser.thumb.jpg.bfee8c5bea4b229b3c998342c6500304.jpg

    Adam

    Hi Adam what would the result of image train tilt actually do to the shot?.

     

  10. Hi all I'm currently using 130pds scope with zwo 1.25 filter wheel with full baader RGB,Ha,Oiii,S,UV/IR filters 178mm camera .I would love to get a cooled camera but funds will have to wait a while I know the 1600mm pro is a great cam but I'm worried that the 1.25 filters may hinder the larger sensor and for that reason I am liking the 183mm cooled . Thoughts please

  11. Just now, pete_l said:

    Check the clearances of the mount and counterweights. Male sure there are no mount positions where one of the weights would collide with a corner of the top block.

    Was thinking I may angle grind corners ,but noted thanks

  12. Hi all I was starting to make a concrete pier 🥵 I worked out how much crete would be needed and thought theirs no way my back could do that so I've change to blocks £16 all done .can u foresee any issues be for a fix into place  .eq5 mount hence the ring onto and hole still needed in top plate .

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