teoria_del_big_bang

10 hours ago, CraigT82 said:

What a wonderful place this is!

I have had so much help from this forum I am more than happy to give a little back if I can 🙂 

Steve

11 hours ago, Gina said:

Fixed my printer - real bed surface temperature (as read by IR thermometer) was between 30°C and 60°C lower than the thermistor indicated!!  I've ordered a new heater pad and meanwhile increased bed temperature.

Didn't I say you would ?

Steve

A truly great image, thanks for sharing

Steve

Dave that is absolutely brilliant.

Steve

Just now, Gina said:

Much better than I'm getting ATM with my printer.  Seems I have serious finger trouble or more like brain trouble in getting my settings right!  Can't blame the filament - it's a new reel freshly opened and top quality.

Like all ub £1000 printers I do get troubles now and again, usually print not sticking to bed, but a quick going over the PEI sheet with very fine wet and dry and it sticks just fine again. Occasional issues with the 5 colour MMU unit but apart from that the Prusa just works, I really couldn't praise it enough. 

Printers can be finicky now and again as you well know and frustrating but somewhere there is usually a cause, not always obvious though.

But I am sure if anybody can find the problem you can so I am sure it will be running like a good un soon 🙂 

Steve

All Done 🙂

Worthwhile though. I admit the useful stuff I have printed is a small percentage of the stuff I have printed, but I find it real interesting designing things in 3D then creating the 3d model and finally printing it out. It does not always go smoothly and you cannot easily print just anything as you cannot print things in thin air so sometimes need removable supports but to think this morning I had an idea and a few hours later there it is in your hand and you did all that is a great feeling and one I would have said was fantasy 30 years ago.

There is a bit of a learning curve to it but nothing like there is in AP so I am sure you will be fine.

Steve

I have to put the STL file into another bit of software called a "Slicer" that breaks down the stl file into layers of whatever thickness I intend to print (in this case 0.2 mm layers). The software then outputs a file in G-Code that the printer understands and knows where to go and when to extrude etc.

Steve

Not a problem I have already sliced it so will be printed in a couple of hours (if nothing goes wrong) 🙂

Steve

Is it okay in Black PET ?

PM your address and I will do it, just cost of postage.

Steve 

On 31/10/2019 at 15:51, John Nodding said:

Spacecat & CEM 40

 

John,

I don't know how much of a threat it is and not sure if these Forum pictures are available through the general internet but I would remove your address labels before taking these pictures in future just to be sure. Your name and address can easily be seen just by zooming in on the photo.

You have something special there 🙂 

Steve

Very nice capture. Looks great on full resolution 🙂

Steve

Very Nice Image  🙂 

Steve

LookingGood 🙂 

Steve

This was pretty much what I was looking for. I have had PI and PS for a while and after a lot of practice have got a reasonable grasp of PI but done practically nothing on PS and really need to do so.

The tutorial is very good but a couple of odd things I have noticed so far is that on at least 2 occasions layers appear between one frame and the next without an explanation of where they came from.

1st instance  - At 10 mins the top layer is the blue layer

Then you explain how to obtain HLVG and a minute later the top layer is now a new layer but where did it come from?

2nd instance

Then 

Now I am sure that anyone with previous knowledge of PS will automatically realise what to do but it confuses a complete PS novice like myself.

This is not a criticism just a question and really I am so grateful to yourself and other member that make these tutorials, without them this would be so much more difficult than it is already.

Steve

Yes that is a lovely image 🙂 

Steve

As above, several SGL users have advised me not to use bias frames for this camera.

Steve

On 31/10/2019 at 15:51, John Nodding said:

Spacecat & CEM 40

If you don't get on with these I can always drive up and take them off your hands 🙂 

Very nice

Steve

I tried the bi-colour option and also reduced the star size a bit on PS and whilst I still need to improve my techniques I think it is better. Bottom image is the original for comparison.

Steve

22 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

The fact that you are asking this question indicates that you need a more fundamental grasp of what is going on in imaging, so take spillage's advice and read this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html

You won't regret it.

Olly

As an imaging novice myself I can concur that this book is a must. Explains such a lot in very understandable language. 

Steve

1 minute ago, ollypenrice said:

Thanks, Chris. As usual with images featuring a galaxy in a starfield, I've combined two stretches above a common background sky, one a hard stretch for things fuzzy and one a soft stretch for the stars. Mercifully only a handful of stars are superimposed over the galaxy so I dealt with them individually.

Olly

Yet another fantastic image 🙂 

I am supposed to be retiring next year I must book your Gite for some advice on all this, and some decent weather hopefully. Sounds like something I should to add to my list.

Steve

Thanks Martin, 

I will give it another go with the Bicolour. I thought of this but had not yet read up how to do a bicolour with 3 channels but that is a great tip 🙂 

Also I have so much to learn about which Nebula work best with which filters, my understanding is that not all nebula work well with NB and some require the RGB filters maybe combined with Ha.  I think without this forum I would be really struggling.

Steve 

16 minutes ago, MartinB said:

You have some very nice detail but I don't think you have mapped the colours as intended, the OIII appears to have been assigned to the green channel with Ha going to red and blue??

Hi,

I am not 100% sure what this was mapped as but it definitely had Ha, OIII and SII going to different channels. But yes I would agree it does look like that.

I originally tried the Hubble Palette (SII to R, Ha to G and OIII to  which still did not look quite right so I tried other combinations (but always mappin all 3 filters to different channels) but whatever I did I never seemed to obtain any blue, the green always there somewhere and the red was always very purple.

Now I do have the Ultra NB Baaders for Ha and OIII but only the normal NB Baader for SII so whether that is causing an issue I am not sure.

I know (or I think I know ???) that to imitate the Hubble Palette properly it is normal to have to go in with PS and tweak the hues of the colours but I would expect to see some form of blue there to begin with.

I will keep trying, nobody on SGL told me this was easy, but I will get there one day 🙂 

Steve

20 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Probably said it before but a image of a bright ish star with all three ultra narrow band filters would be great. 

Just looked through my images taken since obtaining the Baader Ultras (as I said I only have Ha and OIII) and really I have not had any with particularly brightest stars.

From info I had before buying them it was the OIII that was particularly bad and I did post an early image with a close up of some stars with the OIII filter.

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/339361-unmounted-filters-which-side-should-face-the-scope/?tab=comments#comment-3730484

But I will try this test when I can. but as I am due to fly to China working there till Christmas it might not be for a while.

Steve