david_taurus83

Line it with tinfoil.

Would taking a picture of a green or blue object during the day not have the same result @vlaiv ?

On 21/09/2021 at 09:21, Stuart1971 said:

This was my issue, the cover was great while not in use with low wattage heater under, but then when I used the mount and it was covered in frost at the end of a session, I did have an issue, I had to put the cover on but loosely until the next day when hopefully it was dry weather and could remove the cover and let it dry naturally, this became a real pain, and the observatory was built…👍🏼

No chance of an obsy in my garden! There's a big shed I've already claimed for myself so can't claim more garden space! I might have to rig up some sort of technical device to enable me to cover the scope in the morning but keep the TG slightly elevated so it's not wrapping around it. An old sweeping brush perhaps 🤔 

So, basically a Star 71 with helical focuser?

I've just bought a TG365 cover and I can also vouch for the quality. I too though, would like to know how others deal with frost for example. Is it a bad idea to cover a frost bitten scope and mount the morning after? I should hopefully be piered up before winter so wondering how to deal with covering the scope in the mornings after. 

2 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Always the same, I just tend to look out of my window now and see for myself, but unfortunately I can't see whats coming in the next few hours 😞 
If were going out or on holiday the wife just believes the best forecast 🙂 

@Stu whats that app where you can see the cloud cover ? Is it in relatively live time ?

Steve

Sat24 Steve. Its pretty good for seeing where the big banks of cloud are coming from.

I would say Stellarmate as well though I doubt it's as easy to use like the Air.

27 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Have you set  your 'Active Hours' to be during the night time hours ? also under advanced option make sure you've un-set "Restart this device..."  as a final kludge, you can switch-off / disable "Windows Update" service....

I'll have a look for Active Hours, thanks. I don't want to disable the updates completely, just don't want it to restart of its own accord. 

I have W10 Pro on my mini PC mounted to the scope. In 2 out of the last 3 imaging nights, it's decided to update and restart after 2am. Very frustrating when I have instructed NINA to carry on until 4am! I have got all the settings for auto updates switched to off in the control panel so why is it doing it? I'm also worried about the affect this has on my camera. I've just had it back from Atik for a service/sensor clean as the sensor had residue on it from where it frosted up or had dew on it from the previous owner and concerned the sudden PC shutdown has on this.

Anyone figured out how to stop the auto updates? I'm quite happy to update Windows, just not when I'm imaging!

I never bothered with the east heavy thing. It takes long enough to setup each time and get PHD calibrated, ensuring a meridian flip goes smoothly etc, without having to faff about with counterweights again and risking upsetting everything at 1am! Besides, I reckon I can move the counterweight 2 or 3 inches on my current mount without it swinging one way or the other, such is the gunk SW use to grease the mounts.

You loosen the 4 allen bolts circled below, adjust the grub screws (arrowed) as per the guide, retighten the allen bolts and check for play. If your happy that removed the free play, start the check for binding. Readjust if necessary. As wim says though, you can only do so much by feeling by hand but it should improve things a lot.

6 minutes ago, oymd said:

@david_taurus83

You mentioned that the EQ6 strip down guides apply to my AZ-EQ6 Pro, but I recall seeing that the AZ mount has the freedom encoders, which make a significant difference in the strip down? Not sure.

 

I have attached a pic of my mount showing MY understanding of the GRUB screws and POSSIBLY the ALLEN screws you meant, but not sure??

There are 4 Allen screws on my RA body, but which Allen screws should I look at on my DEC?

Many thanks

 

 

 

The guide I linked to is only to reference how to adjust the mesh between the worm and main gear. Also to check if the end float on the worm isn't loose. You don't need to strip the mount down to do this. Thats why the grub screws are there, to adjust externally. 

10 minutes ago, oymd said:

Can you please share the details on what you did to minimise backlash on your mount?

I have a similar mount to the one above in the video. It’s fairly new, just a year old. 
 

I too have significant wobble on the Dec, and minimal wobble on the RA. 

I can’t see myself tearing the mount down as on good nights I average rms of 0.7-0.9. 
 

I read somewhere that the backlash on RA and DEC can be eliminated WITHOUT opening the mount, by just using a 2mm Allen key through the two tiny grub screw holes on either side of the DEC and RA axis on the mount?

is that possible?

My first AZEQ6 developed play in the RA axis after about 6 months or so. I used the astrobaby guide to adjust out the backlash. The guide shows an EQ6 but its essentially the same process. I didn't need to touch the end float. Only the grub screws. It's important to check for binding after each adjustment.

https://www.astro-baby.com/EQ6 rebuild guide/EQ6 worm alignment.htm

2 hours ago, nonlinear said:

Just to buy and re-sell at a higher price in the same market seems peculiarly parasitic.

 

 

That's hardly a fair comment...

How is it any different to an antiques dealer?

That's the whole idea of trade? You buy cheaper to sell for a profit?

I managed 3 minute subs on my 6D and Samyang 135 at f4 and ISO 1600. You need to ignore the histogram on the camera as it's measuring 8 bit values. The images might look bright on the camera but the raw images will be much darker when you process them. I used APT to capture and the 8bit histogram showed all my subs as right on the right hand edge.

Great first effort with this. The Heart has lots of Ha but its not as bright as the NAN for example so needs more subs. Keep at it though! Here's what 5 hours worth of 3 minute subs can do with the Samyang 135 and LP filter, and my light pollution was a lot worse than bortle 5!

Hi Steve. Do you image with the Ha filter to produce monochrome images? Or do you leave them as colour? If the former, then a mono camera would be a far better choice. I wouldn't rule out the ASI1600 either as its not much more expensive than the 183. Whatever you choose, ZWO usually offer sale prices in the run up to Christmas so might be worth holding out for that as well.

I'm confused as well. PHD will issue guide pulses in both axis simultaneously with Skywatcher mounts, iOptron mounts etc

Surely your Mach 1 can do as well??

Sorry if I've missed it but what scope covers are we talking about that get hot underneath when the sun is out? I have a Telegizmo 365 cover I'm planning to use on my pier setup so just wondering if I'll have the same issues. My autofocuser is setup on a 3D printed bracket. Mini PC will also be under the cover.

I have a full set of Astronomiks and I have to say, when I checked with a mask, there is very little movement of spikes between filters. It's hard to tell if there is enough movement to say one is out of focus. And that's with an ED doublet. That said, I have an autofocuser and would always set it to check focus with a filter change just for the sake of it.

Have you got some drill bits Adam? That's what I use for checking things like this! Find the biggest size that fits by inserting the shank. It helps if you have those small ones that have 0.5mm increments.

2 hours ago, MikeP said:

Hi David,

IIRC I made mine from a pair of Skoda Yeti discs.  The central hole was a pretty good fit for the AZEQ6..  Specs change so best to check but there are sites that detail disc brake dimensions.

My drill press is also a cheap one but by drilling pilot holes and using increasing drill sizes, I was able to drill the holes very easily, the steel was much softer than I expected.

Mike

Thanks Mike. That's reassuring. I have a set of HSS bits to start off and an extra set of blacksmiths bits (14 to 20mm) to do it in increments. Will just set drill at low speed and use plenty of oil. 

On 08/09/2021 at 22:32, Jonk said:

I may be wrong, but I'm not sure you're measuring the adaptor in the middle of that bore.

Try with the callipers perpendicular to the plate, and slowly turn one end of it - watch the numbers as you put slight pressure on opening and they should go up, then back down. Of course if you already know this, ignore me!

After a few goes you will feel what's right and be comfortable I would be very surprised if whoever turned that was 250um out. It's possible though, so I would send it back if so.

If anything it should be slightly bigger than the mount.

When I designed mine and had it made by a friend. I specified 65mm and it's fine.

I did exactly that! Same as how i measure any circle. Keep sweeping and note the highest number! It's definitely too small and FLO have confirmed there's an issue with this batch. Waiting for an update. I may consider sending it back and go down the brake disc route but means I need to drill out 18mm holes through steel. Only have a cheap drill press!

Rother Valley Optics offer mount and scope servicing I believe. 

https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/services.html

5 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:

Its a pretty straightforward job - just take your time - photograph everything as it comes apart. Clean everything and use good quality lightweight grease.

There is a guide on my website - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gepzh1BL1M2oJCHEBoHVaOf-vWocMX7s/view

 

Did you manage to take out the shaft bearings in the housing?

Looks completely different to the EQ6R. The AZ has needle bearings inserted into the cast housing. Not sure how easy these would be removed. I would imaging the worm bearings could be replaced easily enough though like the EQ6R. Didn't @Skipper Billy replace bearings on his mount a few years ago?