Vroobel

OK, 20-30% is the acquisition, so 10-20% are the skills directly related to it. 🙂

Really? I don't think about it too much. I still use a set of darks + bias taken 2 years ago. I took them at night, in shed, if I'm not wrong. 🙂 People say that the good astrophotography comes from the good stuff at most at 50%. I would say no more than 40%, rest comes from the post-processing.

I have 17kg 10" F/5 Newtonian, so imagine it with all accessories needed. Believe me, as far as I know strength of 3D printouts, it will give up under the similar load. Of course, it depends on what filament you use. Anyway, fingers crossed. I like your idea and performance. 🙂 🤞

So start with an affordable (but decent) dual-narrowband filter ASAP, then try to modify your DSLR when you can. I agree that the astro OSC cam is better than the modded DSLR, but as you can see the DSLR can also satisfy you. Some cheap dual-narrowband filters may bring halos around stars, but it's up to you if you accept them or not.

I also think that the dual-narrowband filter is the must have. Here is one of my best pics taken with modified Canon 6D and L-eXtreme filter: https://www.astrobin.com/d2jqql/

I use two Xbox 12V 16A PSUs from ebay to powering my CGX + NINA setups and EQ5 OnStep mod + ASIAir setups. 16A is safe enough, I never regretted this choice. Some electrical skills and tools are needed to adapt them to individual needs. There are a bit newer PSUs offering 14A which is still more than needed. My CGX setups contain everything typical excluding a motorised rotator, but I power also a flat panel from my AstroPC. ASIAir also powers the flat panel. Edit. Recently I bought a Jackery 500 portable power source. I tested it with the two fully working setups at the time powered from 12V outputs - it's ok for one night, no more.

I did not need to open my 7x2" filter wheel for nearly half a year. Once I needed to unscrew my 2600MM the dust moths appeared immediately. So, I can rather confirm the above. Also, the dust has a little chance to land on the camera if playing with it is unnecessary. Even with that, I do flat frames for each used filter after every session.

What about Orthos? I have astigmatism and use glasses daily, but I prefer the Orthos over anything else for planets and Moon.

I just tried a new for me RACI finderscope with 102ED F/11. The scope has two Vixen/SW shoes so I can use the finderscope and an RDF for a rough aiming.

Another step towards a comfy Solar System observation. Not today, on Saturday morning I received a great RACI finderscope from @Hairycamel. It's much easier in use than the original straight finder, especially if have to aim higher. I'm not sure whether I'll replace my Baader T2 prism with Amici one, I'll use it as it is for now. 😊

The first thing to consider in the beginning of reasonable imaging is the mount, particularly it's accuracy and maximum load capacity. If it's neglected in the beginning it often comes back after some time, when you want to buy another optical instrument, which usually is heavier. Just compare specifications of the AVX and GTi.

Celestron AVX for £400? https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/422169-selling-everything/ Pics are there:

Type 'Elephant Trunk SHO' in AstroBin and find an image witch you like and which has an info about filters and hours, let's say this: https://www.astrobin.com/8dwsbw/ Add more subs of the channel which you feel is too weak.

Hi, That's very good start! Find out how to aim at exactly the same point and add more data to the same project. At least ASTAP offers multi-night stacking (light and flat frames). The SHO is strongly green, but when you equal the channels it becomes less green. Also, Siril offers a photometric colour calibration. You can play with selective colour correction offered by many programs like PS or Affinity Photo, I hope Gimp also has the features. I don't like the green in SHO too, so I play with sliders... 😉 Good luck

Can the 14 and 13 just summarise to get 27? It would be so close... 😂

Hi, Here is how PixInsight sees your flat, definitely something should be corrected. The red circle marks roughly the brightest area.

Congratulations from me too. 😍 I experienced it twice, 17 months of difference. Sometimes I felt like I have three, not two... 😁 Now they are 14 and 13 years old and I cannot wait when they are responsible and self-sufficient enough to let me spend night under sky darker than Bortle 9. 🤔😉

Thank you all for the comments, they motivate me. ☺️

Indeed, it's really good picture. You are stubborn and don't give up, I like it. 😁 👍 I would suggest creating a mask on the stars, inverting it and reducing a colour saturation of the background.

Indeed, good star shape, even if without guiding. Use an opportunity of bad weather to make 60 dark frames of each exposure time and ISO you think to use. Also, 60 bias frames. 30 flat frames after each session should be enough.

Are you going to prepare Bias, Dark and Flat frames? For stacking try DSS, Siril, ASTAP or other free software.

Thanks. 😊 Oh, yes, I love the scope, it gives me round stars without any AI techniques. ✨🤩

Thanks for this opinion. 😊

Thank you. 😊 I also like these colours, though some people say that more explicit colours would add more space and depth to the image. I should try both ways next time. 🤔 😄

Thank you. 😊