TareqPhoto

Thank you very much for that, but i will never go that route, first i never have any access to materials and machinery, and second those materials raw or others aren't very cheap here in my country, and at the end i won't saving big amount anyway and worse thing is i waste very long time to make one and still it is not that much reliable, so i better not start it to stop in the middle or even finish it after long time and then i stop astrophotography itself after that. I don't mind if someone can do that for me and i pay him and it is cheaper, i prefer someone keep and skilled and have everything to make better than me, i have a nice mount already now, making another one to outperform it will be like a mission impossible to me, i am not in any situation now for buying materials and make the product by myself, i actually failed to make one simple tube to make something like 12" Newtonian or 14" Newtonian or even 12"-16" dobsonian.

I saw also.

When we talk about equipment matters people always say it doesn't matter, so you should do a lot with what you already have then without buying anything else because it doesn't matter not even to a point. Buy the lens 135mm such as Samyang 135mm Nikon mount and you can get something, use 5sec exposures and take lots of them, maybe hundreds or even thousands depends on the target you capture and the sky quality.

Hi all, Yesterday i tested my dual imaging setup again but i didn't make more frames or enough data as i got busy and distracted, and that was the best situation for testing that, i ended up with data of two filters in short time, that it wasn't possible if i was using only one camera and one filter, so that definitely strengthen my plan for having too many things at once. Now because i am having three scopes one of them is still not arriving, i calculated what i need as scopes to make this dual/trio imaging system possible, and for that i wanted some help from you to find out what scopes should i get if possible. A. Wide field range [270mm-320mm]: I have ordered 90mm F/6, it is 540mm, if i buy Apex 0.65x reducer and say APS-C that will put me in about 280-310mm focal length zone, and my second scope for that range to be used with 4/3" i was thinking strongly about Askar FRA400 and its own 0.7x reducer, this way i finished two setups, then i just have to see which third scope to go if i want to use one more mono camera i have between QHY163M or ASI1600, Sharpstar 61II is in my mind but its old generation reducer they says it causes CA, so in this case if i get this combo then i only have to use either Ha or SII filter with it, is that making sense or i better buy also a well full corrected scope APO so i don't get limited with which filter to be used with it? Third scope is optional, and it is cheaper so it is just in my mind to add or not. B. Mid field range [500mm-700mm]: For this i have this 90mm F/6 triplet again at native for 540mm, and i also have my GSO 6" F/4 Newt which is giving 600mm, and there is 0.9x reducer, it will make it 540mm also, at this range i don't need many scopes than two anyway, not sure i will do much at this range more than wide field or long field, but if you have any idea of what can be suited there if i want to make three, what that will be? C. Long field range [800mm-1500mm]: For now i have only Meade 8" F/5 which is 1000mm focal length, there is 0.9x reducer CC to make it 900mm or using Paracorr to make it 1150 according to that Barlow effect from PC, i am worrying a lot in this range as it started to be at limits of my mount, so it means i have to find a scope small weight maybe but giving something like 900mm up to 1200mm to be paired with 8" F/5, i prefer a refractor so i don't worry about crossed spikes from two reflectors, i can't depend on my 7" Mak unless there is a nice reducer for it and i use maybe at least a full frame camera, so i will ignore the Mak here, what could be a possible match at this range then without spikes? This one is what made me to think about another mount cheaper, but i might end up with same weight or even more than 8" Newt here, and that will change the plan for cheap mount anyway. I know many here don't like this idea or goi9ng dual or multiple system or whatever, but in my case i really like it, and i want to do it so i focus less on the nights i am spending with only one setup, no matter issues there, i can manage by the time, so i hope to see your suggestions and recommendations, thanks.

That is a great image you did, keep at it. Well, i am still learning, i can do whatever exposure, 1 minute, 2, 3, 5, 10, it doesn't matter, i did read many topics and discussions about having shorter exposures but many frames or less frames but longer exposures, and it shows that the longer exposures giving better noise signal ratio after all, so i decided maybe i limit it to 5 minutes instead of 10 minutes. I still have the original data, i can stack with those calibration frames, or i can process the stacked one better way without much noise reduction, i can't say i am excellent in processing, i also learn about processing, i have a lot of issues to solve, and by the way, this image i posted above i did it with bad focus, and maybe not perfect back focus, means all issues can be out at once, i just don't care about all that until i have a real imaging scope, i will never try to waste my time perfecting an achromatic scope, i already ordered an APO triplet, and i am also trying to find another APO cheap scope to team with that triplet giving same or similar FOV of this image here [ST80 + 0.8x = 320mm], by then only i can spend time perfecting everything. I am still testing my filters, funny that i bought this Astrodon Ha 5nm in 2017 but i didn't use it much yet, and then i bought Chroma OIII 3nm in late 2019 and then Chroma SII 3nm in early 2020 and until now i didn't test them, i was busy in 2018-2019 with planetary, i didn't fix the issue with guiding, so i waste like almost 3 years without guiding until i figured it out at late 2019 and then i practice with guiding, but again in 2020 i was busy with new virus situations and i decided that i only have to buy more, so i didn't care to go out much to image and practice, and i managed to buy stuff last year, and i keep buying this year to finish, i tried to practice with Ha only, i wasn't trying to perfect anything because my setup wasn't ready, we have clear nights here a lot, so i am not worried to rush things out, i can have time, so all what i try to do is finishing my setup and buying stuff, but i still can share my simple bad results around anyway, learning more about what i should do and how to fix, that's all.

I will, just i don't care about results now, i only care about equipment to finish, once i do that then all nice results will come eventually, and i hope i finish this before they start to install all LED street lights in my area and operate them.

Giorgio, if that is your name, you never being not polite in your post, it is great post. Everything you said is correct and i agree, now all what i have to say is as following: 1. This is from achromatic scope, a temporary one, i wasn't really care much to have high quality image, i was only testing the exposure length and the guiding accuracy as much. 2. I used noise reduction in PixInsight, i followed someone video, he made that kind of aggressive noise reduction so i felt like maybe that is how it should be, and he said he was following someone else setting for it, but sure later i will try to make less or more natural noise reduction, only when i will have a better scope and a better data. 3. Focus was out, not perfect. 4. With Ha filter, many are using like 5min exposures, and some even going longer, i was using Gain 200 Offset 50 which is too much, and still i used 5 min [300sec] exposure and it wasn't enough, so if i go with 180sec it means i must take too many frames to reach that 3-4 hours. 5. I was lucky that night, sometimes the sky is bad weather like it is dusty, cloudy but not like in Europe, haze, sometimes wind but i don't image when windy even little, and moon light which i always try to image when the moon is half or new moon time just in case. 6. I live under Bortle 8 sky, and i can't drive to darker skies, so not sure if that will affect my exposure settings or not, because i will not shoot only narrowbanding, but also broadbanding if possible, but i only practice now with narrowbanding mainly Ha. 7. I was using Astrodon Ha 5nm, a bit contrasty over another filters of another brands, so i heard it requires longer exposures, and later i am planning to buy a cheaper filter Ha but 3nm, for more narrower and better contrast and stars stretching, you think 3min [180sec] will be sufficient even with many frames and long integration? I am still learning although i started 4 years ago, but i was busy with planetary and having issues with guiding and my DSO setup in general, so i didn't make any good astrophotography yet, so i am deciding since last year that i will try to finish my equipment first and i do practice time to time while i am finishing it so i will be ready, now processing i have to learn, i just feel like if i don't have good data then no point to bother and waste time in processing, i got many free data from others that i can process easily with great results, so i thought that i should have that first then, and processing will come later anytime, even there are people will process for me if i gave them my data, but to have that data that good is my goal now, and i hope i will get there sooner or later. Thank you very much for commenting in my post, i thought no one will comment here, no one is interested or my image is that so bad, just learning.

Or more stretching?!!!

???

Hi all, Here is a result that i liked the FOV a lot as i did tests last year,i hope i can build on this for future success, happy with it, i feel because my area has less LP now due to not all new LED street lights installed or done yet, but my city isn't dark or good in general anyway, but the details I've got even with this bad data was amazing for me, i can't imagine what i will get in same conditions with better setup then. Skywatcher ST80 + StellaMira 0.8x reducer ZWO ASI1600mm-C Pro + Astrodon Ha 5nm, Gain 200 Offseet 50 @ -10C Skywatcher AZ-EQ6 36 x 300sec = 3 hours integration, 50 dark, 100 bias, 50 flat Bortle 8 according to LP map 2 results, the second is slightly more contrast added

Not good result, but just to see about the stars in the corners, sounds not bad, because the stars in the entire frame are weird anyway, so it corrected to have same shape, bad, not sure why, but some might like it, and maybe it can be better with different scopes https://www.astrobin.com/full/o6c55t/0/?real=&mod= We have many clear nights here, so i can experiment easily many times.

Here is a result from someone used 0.6x reducer with his ES triplet, what do you think? https://www.astrobin.com/full/tiartq/0/

And it will be nicer to work at 288mm F/3.6 on ASI1600 / QHY163M / QHY294M, and even more nice if i can use that reducer with my 90mm F/6 triplet to give me 324mm F/3.6 on future plan of ASI2600MC [APS-C].

Got it for the upper part. I think i will be happy with any ED or semi APO or APO scope, if i used this ST80 for years mainly narrowbanding then upgrading to ED will be an improvement, and if that doublet is FPL-53 then that might help slightly, but you don't know much about that 61mm triplet i posted, so maybe i better look at that more around, at least it is a triplet after all, and previous one a doublet they mentioned it was good reviews by many, so the new triplet one should do better, they definitely won't make it worse anyway. Also Askar option is very tempting, those new scopes are getting around, more people will have hands on them, i have time to decide until a budget will come, hopefully by that time i can be ready with a decision, it is just the more i wait, the more doubts and questions i will have.

I have this eggy stars or even worse with my ST80 + 0.8x reducer using 55mm spacing, and i posted results and people told me that it is not necessary to have 55mm always even if it is mentioned there, so it could be spacing needing more fine tuning, who knows, i saw results from someone using 0.6x reducer, i think it was better stars shapes, but i can 't confirm if that is without cropping or which camera.

Ok, that will bring us into same question of beginning, does that really matter a lot with a doublet or triplet? So if it matters means a triplet is the answer without asking about which optics in the scope, now i really don't know what all that show and bubble about FPL-53 if a triplet no matter what is the answer? DSLR lenses has plenty of optics inside so isn't that for color correction then? I feel i don't know about a triplet vs. fpl-53, some will cry for a triplet and others will cry for FPL-53 even if it is a singlet, so i can't understand much this dilemma here, good that reflectors are almost free of CA so not worried here. I still think vlaiv idea about having 60mm doublet and do things like reducing it and stopping it down is the best solution here, i will not stop thinking about a scope at 280mm-320mm for Ha and Lum filters, not DSLR lenses.

You see only issues, no hopes. For the star shapes from that page, i can't judge from that really, the imager used 183 and who knows what conditions and processing he was doing, i will do more research to see if that is the scope issue or the user issues, very easy people to show up issues and relate it to gear more than themselves, but that can happen, i will do more inspect. About 61, bear in mind that there are two models, the old one 61EDPH original is a doublet, while the version II is a triplet, is that discussion about version 1 or 2 or it doesn't matter?

RASA is out of my plan and mind, so not going there. What star shapes you are talking about? Ok, this is the last option i left, didn't want to include it as i don't know about this maker reputation much, what do you think, a triplet and there is a reducer for it designed? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sharpstar-telescopes/sharpstar-61edph-ii-f5-5-triplet-ed-apo-telescope.html

There is also another option i just recently found, this reducer for SCT, can give that FL i want, and razor speed, what do you think about this option then? C6 not sure which version/model reduced with this Hyperstar 6. https://starizona.com/products/hyperstar-6

Your first idea about getting 60mm F/6 and use a reducer and stop it down sounds a great idea, this i can accept and go with, i hope it won't disappoint me later in any cases. Regarding the lenses, i can do that with my smaller lenses that has filters threads, such as my 70-200 or 135mm or 85mm or even 100-400, but my 300 is huge front and it doesn't have filter thread and i use it with the dew hood that is huge, couldn't find any mask and i have no access to any 3D printer to make some, and i hate the focuser ring of the lens, it is my old lens that needs a lot of service and greasing but i will never send it to service anymore, and the lens itself also have in the back what is called gelatin filter, transparent glass, but it caused FAT ugly halo before when i tested with D2 filter or LRGB filters, so in brief, NO to this lens. And about my ST80 + 0.8x, i am still using it anyway, i don't have another refractor anyway, and i also using it next to that 300mm lens recently for practice, but i won't use both later at all, ordered a triplet that i still waiting since October, and the second one should be also a scope, can't afford the same triplet again and an expensive reducer for it as second one, so wanted something cheap, now you suggest about 60mm reduced and stopped down that can be a plan, hope that is my answer. Thank you

https://www.astrobin.com/wn5x1u/?nc=user This is a winner image from FSQ106 and Astrodon filters, if i pixel peeping it to full size i can see slightly issues by stars as well, so it wasn't perfect, and maybe the user did huge processing to minimize it also, who knows.

Your answer is like not an answer to me, it is like you are telling me to give up of what i look for, showing me issues means you want to answer me with no but with examples. Ok, i will check out more images and see to what degree people are accepting issues, because i think i saw people liked many issues images and i even see winner images having issues, in fact i saw issues with scopes from Takahahsi or TEC or the cheaper Esprit as well, means i have to accept degrees of issues here, otherwise no refractor is good even a triplet then.

Correction, yes for focal length, but i wasn't after speed, i don't care about speed, be it F1 or F4 or F10 i don't care really, but where you will find a scope with say 280-300mm and not fast speed anyway? Not interested in lenses, i have Canon 300mm prime and the FOV is unbelievable i love, but the results are awful, in fact i liked the result from my achromatic + 0.8x at 320mm more than my Canon 300mm, and if you said i have to stop the lens down as all people said then i really very very much hate the spikes from lenses, i only like spikes from reflectors, believe me, i looked at all possibilities and i feel like i ask so much difficult demand/request, or i just go with any option i see and take the risk.

I don't know if Astronomik L3 filter can be a good help here or not, and what about LRGB filters from Astrodon for example, isn't it a high quality brand and filters and they have better design quality and coating?

Ok, you judge this, what do you think about this image, do you like it? Or you believe it is FULL of blue halos and it is not acceptable by you? https://www.astrobin.com/c1viz4/?nc=user