Chriske

I use PLA all the time to make outdoor projects. BUT exclusively white because it reflects the heat of the sun. Some of these projects stay outside all day long, winter/summer. And no, it does not degrade or deform at all during these very hot summers/heat wave. Some of these projects are already seven years old. Still, PLA cannot be used for projects inside your car. They will deform when the inside of your car get to hot during a heat wave.

Printingspeed does not affect layer-bonding at all -- as long as you're raising print temp. together with speed. + partscooling. For partscooling I use a 50mm radial fan. In the near future I'll even use a 70mm radial partscooling fan to be used when printing with even larger nozzles then 1.5mm. I do print at 100+mm/s using print temp of 245 and even 255°C(PLA). To do this I use a Volcano hotend. With short 'standard' hotends this would not be possible at all. Using a 1.5mm nozzle I need to lower the speed to about 50-60mm/s. And I can assure you, my parts have all perfect layer bonds.

As long as you print in white colour there's nothing that will happen with these parts, even in PLA. Sunrays are reflected and do not warm up the parts at all. Good job..!

Using a bigger nozzle, say 2.5mm this could be printed in one go as 'SpiralVase'. I actually do have a nozzle that size, and the printer that goes with it is almost finished. Did a simulation and ended up with a printing time of 19 minutes using a layer height of a whopping 1.8mm. Using a layer height of 'only' 1mm, printing-time raises to about 34m...😳😃 Cost 2.86€.

How thick is the wall btw..?

I see now you're using 0.2 layer hight, why not 0.3..(0.4mm nozzle I presume)? Also try higher speed, most of the time I'll go to about 100mm/s Remove infill, and replace it with extra perimeters, way faster.

Oops, there must be another way...

No problem at all. The only thing that will be difficult is the railing around the house : to thin. But this is not a real situation, it is an optical illusion, so this one doesn't count and is not feasible indeed, sorry David...;-)

Drillable yes, but do support it from the inside very well. If you don't, the drill will split the part when entering the inside perimeter..! That's because larger drills will force itself inward with the 'speed' of the drill's flutes. Smaller diameter drills will work.

CORRECT...!!!😆

I'm installing Raspian-Buster on Rpi4's. These Rpi's does each one thing and one thing only. One Rpi serves as a music streaming-device in my workshop. A second one I use exclusively to brows the net. A third one I use to transfer images from one location to another in a network at our local Observatory. I make Focograms using one Rpi, then transfer it to another Rpi to beam it onto big screen for the spectators to see and discuss. Another serves as remote server to activate the cooling of our bell-jar(mirror coating). Very handy when we want to coat a mirror and the cooling is already set to -10°C when we arrive at the observatory. In the past I needed (small) PC's to all do these jobs. Now I only need a few Rpi's to do just the same for far less £££$$$...😃

No not at all..!!!!😳😳😳

What I absolutely should add to this thread : a better solution in a case like this, it would be far better to use a 'small' SSD as main drive, and a HD as storing-device. Although it is much slower a HD is far better to save and read/write very often. If you buy a good HD it will last a lifetime. A SSD has a limited ready and write capability. Therefore it would be better to use it as boot-device. Booting OS and software from a SSD is way faster. But for most users it is rather difficult to completely rearrange your computer this way. Don't even know if MS would allow you to reinstall your OS on another drive. (I'm Linux user myself). That said, for most users re-installing all again from '0' : your PC will be even faster.

I know this is a astronomy forum, but as more and more items in astronomy are PC/laptop related and so more data needs to be saved/stored, I thought this post would benefit to you(us) all. Thinking about RAW images, to name one. not..?

Hi, I know not the correct spot to post this item but in a way it is, because it helps storing even more data on your laptop, even when you're getting 'out of space' on your HD. Most of you, me included, uses USB-HD these days. But these things are rather slow. I recently bought a CD-to-HD tray. Purpose is to replace the CD with a HD. Works flawlessly. Remove that one screw on the back of your laptop(that one screw hold the CD-reader in place. And the good news is : most of the time that one little screw is marked with a 'CD-logo') pull the CD-reader out of that laptop and replace it with a HD or SSD. Booting again that new HD-SSD is automatically detected by BIOS and OS. Not all CD-trays have identical shapes of course. But the good news is(again) for every other laptop there's a specific tray. Depending on the OS you're using, there's no limit of the HD-SSD size you can put in. Yep, I thought might ask... No I didn't use my CD-reader anymore at all, for years now. It only sits there gathering dust, doing absolutely nothing. And I think there are lots of people thinking now : yep indeed, when was the last time I did use my CD/DVD...😉 This is mine : For a laptop 10+ years old.

The best action I ever did with my laptop : erase Wintendo and install Linux, a few years ago now. Never got to W8 or W10, and I was not planning to...😡 W7 was the best MS ever produced imo, XP second place. Both could be tuned, almost to the core of the system. It's a few years now I use Linux Mint18.3 Xfce. It has the 'feel' of a W-XP machine. It does everything I want I want it to do and more. And what's more everything I ever need is on board for free. If I need some other software that's not on board Linux-package I go and ask on the Linux-Mint forum. Literal minutes later you get a reply. These guys are super..! And btw I had a great local helpdesk : Gina

To do my raytrace 'stuff' I always use 'Spotplotter'. A very small but powerful thing. I could use 'Oslo' or other PRO-software, but it is over the top for just two surfaces, and you end up with the same result. A few screenshots. 0.5° field - The circle in the centre is the Airydisk 0.12543°(your value)

Indeed it as bit short. But there is an easy fix. I did a simulation and ended up with exactly the same optical(raytrace) result. Lower the ROC of the SecMir. to 595mm Correct the CC of that mirror to -2.14 You'll end up with a distance of about 330mm instead of 250mm back focal length. But : The telescope has a different end value now, it has grown now to f/25.5, so F=6395mm. This is just an example, you can play with these two figures as needed.

😳

Did not read the whole thread, sorry. Could older camera's be used for debayering ..?

Overhaul all SaturnV rockets in our observatory. A bit more detail in the upper parts of the rockets.

One last picture. A fourth astronaut is added to HST today Mission specialist Koen is busy installing HST's corrective optics... C.O.S.T.A.R...😁

Added two second stages...

That wasp-trap was ok, but not efficient enough. Made a modification and now it works just perfectly. I'll show the drawing because it is not nice to see at, with all these wasps in it...😬 This is V2, nono not the one Werner has built a 'while' ago... That little thing goes inside the jar to keep the wasps from escaping.

Hey guys... Buy a printer 200x200mm bed, learn how to work with a 1.5mm nozzle and I'll send you the STL files. Printing time about 48 hours(SpiralVase modus) I redrew this model myself, made 5 of these rockets. Don't remember how much I spend on filament. (see higher up) If I'm correct I've spent just under 100€ for one rocket. But most of it was spent on wood and paint for the consoles. You also need a few threaded rods, nuts, washers, black paint, that's about it. My SaturnV rockets are at scale 1:55, that's the largest you can get on a 200x200mm bed. The last SaturnV I'll be printing will be at scale 1:33. With LUT, crawler and all it will be 4.1m high.