Spaced Out

Yep, rest assured you are not alone ! I think we’ve all had similar experiences at one point or another. As you say, it’s part of the learning curve, frustrating at the time but it’s often useful in the long run.

My own biggest problem is tiredness late at night, when I’m tired my brain doesn’t work so well and I just make mistakes !

I use this fairly old app on iphone to work out moonrise and sunset times etc. It also shows you orientation of the MW in advance so you can wind things forward and plan in the daylight where the MW will appear when it gets dark, I find this really helpful when planning landscape astrophotography.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/star-walk-2-night-sky-map/id892279069

I see its also on android

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vitotechnology.StarWalk2Free&hl=en_GB

Yes if the gap betwen dusk and the moonrise is long enough then it is do-able, certainly for landscape astrophotography, done it many times. It is usually dark enough about 1.5 hours after sunset, then you start to notice about 45 mins before the moon rises that shots are getting lighter and the histogram is moving to the right.

On 06/03/2020 at 16:13, Skipper Billy said:

Point1. - it doesn't really make any difference whether you take one filter per night or all filters on each night - the only advantage I can see is you could shoot your Lum when the seeing is at its best and take the RGB when the seeing is not so good. 

Great advice ! Thank you.

On 06/03/2020 at 16:13, Skipper Billy said:

Point 2. - Personally I take a full set of all calibration frames at the start of the season and use that library throughout that winter - then delete them when the rig comes inside for the summer. I use Flats, darks and Bias but others have different methods. If you remove the camera or move anything in the imaging train then you will need to retake them all.  Technically you should take a set of flats for each filter but in practise I have never seen any advantage over using Lum flats for all filters.

Thanks.

I have a permanent pier outdoors but usually bring the telescope carefully inside at the end of each session. It has the camera still attached and I do a star check with the camera to assess collimation at the beginning of the next session. Assuming I don’t remove the camera could I still use the same flats in this situation or should I re do the flats each night because I’ve moved it? If I remove the camera to re-collimate then I assume I must re do flats etc ? 

On 06/03/2020 at 16:13, Skipper Billy said:

What I don't know is whether you are using a set point cooled camera - if you aren't then you might need calibration files at differing temperatures.

I am using the ZWO ASI 1600 and usually set it to -20, creating a darks library should be easy (I hope !)

On 06/03/2020 at 16:13, Skipper Billy said:

Most importantly enjoy it!

Thanks ! 👍

On 06/03/2020 at 15:21, Adreneline said:

I would tend to go for a range over one night because at least you will end up with something you can start to process and add to over future nights.

Thanks for this answer.

I can certainly see the attraction of using multiple filters in one night and slowly building your image up over time. However I don’t have an obs with a fixed rig (just have an outdoor pier), I have to move my telescope indoors at the end of each night. I thought if I take this multiple filter approach I’d have to take a load of flats every night (because each night I’ll have moved things about and maybe removed the camera to check collimation etc) ? This is why I was wondering if using one filter per night and playing the long game might be a better approach for me ?

On 06/03/2020 at 15:21, Adreneline said:

Be aware that focus positions may vary betwen filters even if they are parafocal; my experience is that blue can be a problem in this respect.

Thanks, I’ve read this and have been re-focussing between filters.

On 06/03/2020 at 15:21, Adreneline said:

 If you are going to go back to the same target over a number of nights the ability to plate solve is a real bonus.

 

I use APT and CDC, I have just downloaded astro tortilla for plate solving but haven’t used it yet.

On 06/03/2020 at 15:21, Adreneline said:

I agree flats are best taken each time but having said that if you are using a 'sealed' filter wheel you can probably get away with only taking flats periodically or if you notice something like a dust bunny on one of your integrated stacks.

If I am moving my telescope back indoors each night with the camera (and sealed filter wheel) still attached does this still stand ? If I remove the camera to check collimation I assume I have to re do the flats next time ?

Thanks again. 👍

23 hours ago, Adam J said:

Difficult choice I got to the point when I was thinking of either getting a moon light focuser or moving onto a refractor, in the end I decided it was a false economy to try putting a £300 focuser onto a £160 scope and saved for the refactor instead. The original focuser is fine for a DSLR or a OSC cooled camera, but by the time its having to hold a dedicated mono camera and a 8 position filter wheel it just cant hack it. The main issue is that you colimate with the light weight colimation tool in it and then the whole thing moves when you put the camera system on and hey presto your colimation is wrong.

Thanks for this. I think I am committed (= attached !) to the 130 PDS for now, been using it with DSLRs and learning the ropes, I’ve really enjoyed it so far. I’m just disappointed I’ve spent a big wedge on a camera upgrade only to discover the stock focuser doesn’t like the weight and my images show sag/tilt. I am using an ASI 1600 + EFW + OAG + Baader MPCC + various spacers, it all weighs 1.28 kg !

I am happy save up and buy a Moonlite if it is the right tool for eliminating this sag/tilt issue. I’d love someone to come on her and say yes I had a similar problem and yes the Moonlite solved it ! That would give me some confidence that I am thinking along the right lines. 🤔 

On 03/03/2020 at 17:22, james_screech said:

Has anyone had experience with dew control ? I've been trying to contact them but get no response.

James

Yes I used them in January to purchase a dew heater and fisheye lens for an all sky cam build. Response time to emails was always within 24 hours and they gave me good information, even made me a bespoke cable for the heater, so thumbs up from me. I'll DM you the email address I was using for them.

On 04/03/2020 at 21:45, Adam1234 said:

•  Any idea how to check if is indeed dust on the sensor and how I can clean it, or should I take the camera into the shop and get a professional to do it?

Many Canon cameras have a manual sensor clean option in the menu, I always try this first off. If that doesn't work then as others have said, mirror lock up (to expose the sensor), hold the camera upside down and use a rocket blower or compressed air. This helps to clear loose stuff.

For more stubborn dust stuck on the sensor I use sensor swabs and sensor cleaning fluid. I try to keep swab cleaning to a minimum and only do it if the dust is a real problem. It’s easy enough to do you just need the right tools and it works well to remove dust. There are plenty of tutorials on youtube to help with this method.

Hi All

I’m brand new to Mono imaging and have come from using a simple process of DSLR without calibration frames. I’m trying to get up and running and I have a couple of BASIC questions regarding workflow.

1 – When imaging over multiple nights should you take a range of LRGB frames and calibration frames on each night or can you (should you ?) spread the filters over different nights, for example one night each for each filter and the calibration frames for that filter ?

2 – Which calibration frames should I do each night ? I have a cooled camera so can create master darks and I also dither (so do I need the darks ?). I can do flats but I haven’t tried doing bias frames yet and I don’t know what dark flats are but I’m sure google will help me !

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Hi all

Just wondering if anyone has used a Moonlite CR2 focuser with the 130 PDS ?

I have a new camera and filter wheel that is heavier than my old DSLR, this combined with my fickle SW autofocuser tensioning means that I am experiencing what I think is focuser ‘sag’. I certainly have tilt that seems gravitational and when I put a laser collimator in the focuser tube I can wobble it so that the red dot moves around the primary mirror donut.

I’m getting nowhere trying to improve this so I wondered if investing in a premium focuser might be the answer ? I’ve read that Moonlite focusers are good but are they really solid ? Solid enough to hold a large imaging train without unwanted sag ?

These focusers cost a lot of money and I’d have to save up for quite a while to get one, but I don’t mind doing that if it going to help solve my problem.     

I have both the 24mm f1.4 and 14mm f2.8 Samyang lenses.

The 24mm is my “go to” lens for Milky Way shots, however, I only use full frame. I find the 24mm is a much better lens than the 14mm for Milky Way, it gathers more light and when you stop down to f2 it is really sharp. The 14mm f2.8 is wide WIDE ! It definitely has that moustache warp effect so if you have a straight horizon like the sea it will appear a little wavy at both edges, this can be easily sorted out using photoshop tho.  

I started off with the 14mm and it was good but since I got the 24mm the 14mm has been relegated to wide star trail shots only.

Examples of shots using both lenses can be seen on my flickr pages here.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132427272@N04/albums

I’m actually considering getting a good 50mm lens for Milky Way and stitching frames.

2 hours ago, Alien 13 said:

 DNG converter is something I use as my Photoshop version cant handle my Canon RAWs.

Alan

Me too ! 👍

3 hours ago, Nikodemuzz said:

I can obtain a used 7D Mk2, and a 6D with essentially the same price. Full frame certainly has its appeal, but I think the FOV might get even a tad too wide with 250mm focal length. An APS-C sensor would frame many of the targets on my list just so. Hmm.

6D all day long for me ! Purely on image quality and low light performance......  

I also own a 7d MK2 that I use for wildlife and have occasionally thrown it on a telescope, it performed OK but it's a lot noisier than the 6D at higher ISOs. I'm guessing this will be less of an issue if you are stacking lots of images tho ? If you are only working at 250mm then as you say FOV is a consideration and a crop sensor may be the better choice for your particular targets.

I think 7D Mk2 is widely considered one of the best canon crop sensors. Is it worth looking at the 80D too ? My mate just got one for wildlife and tbh the image quality seems better than my 7D Mk2, I think it might be slightly better at higher ISOs than the 7D too ? 

I have a little old shed, I used some left over bits of ply and foam to insulate it and added in some ventilation. One end is now a little warm(ish) room in the other end I made a small cupboard for storage, my gear now lives in there. The cupboard has two large passive air vents and small low power tube heater running in there. It was an experiment really but it works well, the humidity usually remains constant between 50% & 55% so I’m happy to keep gear there. I also added an alarm for security.   

On 18/02/2020 at 15:09, johninderby said:

That’s why I’m a convert to the Concentre. So simple to use but it gets the secondary spot on as when you’ve adjusted the secondary mirror to a perfect circle using the concenric rings it is now precisely centered under the focuser as well as being rotated correctly and not tilted. Even a total beginner can get the secondary perfectly set up very easily. 

One thing I have found is that everyone I know that has tried a Concentre becomes a convert to the concept.

Can of course also be used for adjusting the primary. It is a good idea to check the squareness of the focuser to the tube as well. 

I've just ordered one !

I now have a cheshire, a cap, a hotech lazer and tomorrow I'll be adding this to my arsenal ! I ordered it because I have always found the secondary the hardest part to get absolutely bob on and this sounds the tool for the job.

Personally I wrestled with a cheshire when I was learning, everyone said it was the best method, but I've come to the conclusion a cap and a laser are much easier to use. Is it as accurate tho ? I don't honestly know, but my images look OK. What I do know is that it has always been the secondary that has bugged me with the collimation process so I hope this new tool will help out with that.

1 hour ago, Nikodemuzz said:

- 6D (prices start to get high, but I could consider it if there is enough return in terms of quality)

 

6D really is a great camera. I've had a lot of Canon DSLRs but for certainly for single shot nightscapes, wide angle landscapey milky way type stuff I always default to using my old 6D just for its image quality and low light performance. I've had it modified recently so I am looking forward to picking up a bit of nebulosity in my images now too and maybe chucking it on a mount for widefield stuff. 👍

For info I read somewhere that 6Ds can be a bit tricky to mod (easier to mess up), so I asked Juan at cheap astrophotography if he would do mine but he was reluctant. I did get it done in the end by Andy at Astronomiser, but I'm glad I didn't risk trying it myself !

A lot of people using 450Ds and 600Ds it seems.   

I have the ZWO OAG, it works fine for me. I have a fairly sensitive guide cam (lodestar X2) and I haven’t tried any other guide cams with it.

I use a Baader MPCC mkIII and I found it a bit of a faff getting CC spacing + OAG + filter wheel + camera all lined up and working well. The problem I had was CC spacing. At the correct spacing (I think I added about 1.6mm) the prism of the OAG was sitting over one corner of the imaging sensor, which I didn’t like very much ! To get it to line up nice and level with the flat side of the sensor I used 2 thinner spacers adding up to the total required spacing instead. I put one between OAG and camera and one the other side between the OAG and MPCC, then it lined up nicely. 

The only negative I can think of about this OAG is that the stalk with the prism on feels a little bit wobbly sometimes, not as sturdy as I imagined, doesn’t affect operation tho.

21 hours ago, Erling G-P said:

Must be wonderful to have such landscapes close to home. Your bird photography is exquisite too - I'm not really into birds, but they're so good I almost want to start photographing birds myself

Best of luck with the Star Adventurer, although your Milky Way shots don't really need improvement if you ask me

Thank you ! Yeah I'm lucky to live here, good for photographing the night sky. 👍

26 minutes ago, DaveS said:

Although I'm mainly a 'frac guy, I would have to say that a 130P-DS on an HEQ5 is a pretty good starting setup, but allow funds for a coma-corrector, the Baader MPCC mk3 is well regarded.

I started with a HEQ5 and 130PDS, don’t regret it and I’m still using it now to learn the ropes.

Only issue I had early on was learning collimation, but with practice things slowly started to fall into place.

I found the whole process a bit of a learning curve, especially adding in guiding and new software, all good tho. I really enjoy using this setup and I’m still learning new stuff all the time. Loads of good support on here too, I was on all the time asking for help with this or that........ and I still am !

Considering everything discussed here so far I am wondering if my best course of action might be to get a free trail of CCDInspector and purchase one of these ?

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo_t2_tilter.html

8 hours ago, CaptainShiznit said:

Asking here for 130PDS owners rather than start a new thread. What coma correctors are people using and would recommend?

Baader MPCC MkIII works well for me.

13 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi

I think that if you went with the 130 instead you'd be in business.

Cheers 

Agreed, the 130PDS might be more useful in this case, especially if you can't afford the mount upgrade, it's a little bit lighter and it's a great telescope for photography too. I think some folk are using the finder scopes for guiding and saving weight over a larger piggybacked guide scope ? I use an OAG with mine, it works fine and is lighter than the piggybacked ST-80 I used to use for guiding.

I think I read somewhere that in an ideal world your imaging set up should be around half (or two thirds?) the weight capacity of your mount ? This really worried me at the time because I was pretty much at full capacity with all the gear hanging off mine ! However, it still worked OK. I did find when I trimmed the weight it improved things a little tho.

Is the recommended max capacity of the EQ5 about 9 or 10KG ?

54 minutes ago, Erling G-P said:

I'll second that - absolutely stunning photographs !! 😮

Northumberland seems to provide a wealth of fantastic photo locations

Wow ! Thank you too.

I tend not to go very far from home with my camera so most of my night sky images are from coastal Northumberland. Luckily I am sort of equidistant between Newcastle upon Tyne and Berwick upon Tweed, looking north and south I can see light pollution but locally it is pretty dark at night.  

I have a ‘Northumberland’ album on the Flickr page with milky way, aurora shots etc.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132427272@N04/albums/with/72157654649850948

I’m now hoping to learn how to use the star adventurer mini to produce better quality milky way shots from around here. 👍

1 hour ago, Andy R said:

A bit off topic but what a fantastic Flickr page you have.  Superb!

Thank you, that's very kind. 🙂