Spaced Out

I have the autofocuser fitted to my 130PDS. It was a bit of a faff to get it working properly tbh but I followed this youtube vid, different model but similar duel speed focuser.

OK, I’ve spoken to a mate who reckons the helical focuser could make things worse for getting focus with the lodestar, he suggested I will probably need a spacer between the OAG and filter wheel to get both ZWO camera and Lodestar to achieve focus together.

Anyone using the ZWO OAG and ZWO Camera with a lodestar ? Does this sound about right ?  

Thanks

Hi All

Just a quick one I hope.

Is anyone using a ZWO ASI 1600, ZWO filter wheel and ZWO OAG with a Lodestar X2 guide cam ?

Any problems ?

Would you need this to achieve focus with the lodestar ?

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-125-helical-focuser.html

Thanks.

4 minutes ago, LR Watanabe said:

Soooo....

Since you guys are really smashing the praise button on the Canon EOS 6D, I might as well get the 6D as it is relatively new compared to the 5D Mark II.

But then the thing is, I really can't find someone who sells a second hand Canon EOS 6D at a price of <450$ (45,000 Yens). Could someone give me a link of someone selling a used 6D at the aforementioned price? It means a lot to me if you do, as my brain is already starting to hurt from all the back and forth i've been doing between AP gear.

 

Clear skies,

LR

The 6D is a bit newer and has better low light performance than the 5D mk2.

https://www.lonelyspeck.com/canon-eos-6d-review/

Maybe ebay is your best bet ? I just did a quick search of sold 6Ds on there in the UK and they seem to be ranging from £200 - £400, not sure what that is in US dollars ? Plenty sold on there in the £300 - £400 range tho.

Also check out the Rokinon/Samyang 24mm F1.4 if you want to do wide angle stuff. I started with the 14mm for my landscapey stuff but as soon as I got the 24mm the 14mm was parked in the camera bag and only came out for wide WIDE angle shots (mainly star trails and the like).

https://www.lonelyspeck.com/rokinon-24mm-f1-4-ed-as-umc-review/

Agree FF the way to go for wide Milky Way shots........ and definitely if you are doing single exposure stuff. FF are generally better than crop sensors in terms of high ISO noise control. I'm not sure you'll get better than the old 6D MK1 for the money. A few years ago it was THE Canon camera to have for nightscapes/landscapey astro stuff and you can get 2nd hand 6Ds relatively cheap now on ebay etc.

I have used a 6D MK1 for a long time now with both the wide Rokinon/Samyang lenses (24mm & 14mm) and it works well. The 6D and the 24mm is still my goto for Milky way shots today, that 24mm lens is just great for capturing the MW. I've recently got a 5D Mk4 but haven't had time to compare it with the trusty old 6D for milky way stuff yet.

The wide angle night sky shots in my Flickr albums are nearly all using the 6d and rokinon/samyang lenses.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132427272@N04/albums

I also have the 600D and it's fine, I use it for astrophotography with telescopes but always stack lots of long exposure subs to reduce noise. I tried using it for landscapey astro stuff once, I had to stack high ISO images but I wasn't all that impressed with the final image quality when compared to the 6D. I wasn't using a tracker and needed short exposures at high ISO to get detail, it may well hold up better using a tracker and lower ISOs ? Here it is....

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132427272@N04/45684772515/in/album-72157654649850948/

OK Update !

I cleared my sync data tonight and started again using Dialog Based setting but I have exactly the same problem. I started at 90 degrees home position but when I come to park after syncing it is saying 89 degrees something. I've synced on 10 stars tonight and the GOTO gets the target in the field of view but it is never centred, am I expecting too much ?

2 hours ago, symmetal said:

Under Alignment/Sync section change the User Interface from Append on Sync to Dialog Based. With Append on Sync you can end up with many Sync points close together which upsets the pointing model and gotos. Dialog Based will effectively replace an old sync point point close to your position with a new one. Also delete the alignment sync points from time to time to start afresh. (Buttons just above the User Interface selection)

I find after a while the home position does report itself at 89 degrees or so though its physical position doesn't seem to have changed. Deleting the alignment point data clears these errors. 

Alan

Thanks for this too. I'll try changing that setting and re syncing things to see if it helps.

In terms of home position reporting I've gone from 90 degrees to 89 degrees on my first night ! So if I delete my syncs should that go back to 90 degrees ?

2 minutes ago, wxsatuser said:

I always found once the first star is centred and synched the following ones are always in the fov.
Not spot on but by the time 3 to 4 are done the gotos are pretty close on centre.

Thanks for this reply. Yep, on the night I synced everything was dead centre and I was dead chuffed. The following night I noticed that the home position had slightly changed and all goto's, whilst still in the FOV, were out on the edge.

I don't think I've knocked anything and I've not touched the clutches. I'm left scratching my head a bit ! Maybe I just need to clear the syncs and set it up again from scratch.

Hi All

I am just setting up my newly built pier with EQMOD and Cartes du Ciel for the first time. Never done this before and I’m loving using EQMOD over the hand controller, however, I have a small problem. As I have synced my first few stars in CDC my EQMOD home position has changed slightly. I’m hoping this is just a settings issue somewhere ?

Perhaps as I have synced stuff I have slightly moved things so the EQMOD home position has also changed a little ? I could live with this if the GOTO pointing was more accurate after the syncing but it isn’t, it seems worse !

Here’s how things look at the moment.

Any suggestions please ? 

Hi All

I have this auto focuser to fit but no screws ! Just wondering if anyone can tell me the correct screw size for the 4 screws that normally come with this auto focuser kit please ? I mean the small screws that bolt the bracket to the focuser and telescope body. There are 4 of them and they are longer than the standard screws to accommodate the bracket.

Thinking I’ll to try to source some from ebay if possible.

Thanks.

2 hours ago, SyedT said:

Yes. There's no physical switch on the hub itself. When I connect it up, all I do is switch on the main power and it powers up.

That's great, thank you.

2 hours ago, SyedT said:

I use an Anker hub purchased from Amazon, works flawlessly. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker®-PowerIQ-Charging-Samsung-Motorola/dp/B00VE4UJD4/

Thanks for this, interesting ! Will this also turn on and off remotely via a mains switch without the need to actually touch the hub itself ?

7 hours ago, PhotoGav said:

I use a Startech USB hub (https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Port-USB-3-0-Hub-Black-Metal/dp/B00SCE4E0I/ref=asc_df_B00SCE4E0I/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309981988222&hvpos=1o27&hvnetw=g&hvrand=71678861840839942&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045600&hvtargid=pla-348690807809&psc=1&th=1&psc=1) and power it on and off remotely through a Wemo Switch with no problem. Worth considering. 

Thanks for this info, really helpful👍. It's a bit more expensive than my current USB hub but I've heard StarTech are supposed to be pretty solid in terms of performance. If it does the job I need with regard to powering up and down remotely then it seems like a wise investment !

Hi All

SO...... Finally..... I’ve almost completed my ‘mini obs’, which is basically just an outdoor pier and a warm spot in our little old shed.

Gearing up and testing equipment yesterday I have come across a small issue with my pier mounted powered USB hub. I now have all of my electrics (including the USB hub) in sealed weather proof boxes mounted on the pier column. I have these boxes wired back to two main swiches in the little shed to turn stuff on and off remotely.

I thought this was a good idea but I’ve just discovered that my existing hub needs its on/off button pressing to turn it back on each time the power is disconnected. The weather proof boxes are currently mounted on the pier using long velcro straps and its a bit of a faff to open them up every time I need to turn on this USB hub.

Just wondering if anyone uses a powered USB hub that can be switched on and off directly from the mains switch without having to touch the hub itself ?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer !

Thanks both for your thoughts on this.

I've just ordered one of these.....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007ZUFBGQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1WIPE1EAZ1XDH&psc=1

I'm hoping it's a little better than the cheaper ebay adaptors. Says it has overload and short circuit protection and has 1 yr warranty.

Hi all

I’ve just ordered a HitecAstro DC Focus Controller. It hasn’t arrived yet but I notice that it only comes with one of those cigarette lighter plugs. I want to use mine with mains power so I have been looking for an adaptor to use.

I’m a bit of duffer when it comes to electrics and I was wondering if someone could please advise whether this cheap ebay offering might be suitable for my needs ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5A-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-240V-Mains-Plug-to-12V-DC-Car-Charger-Power-Adapter/264236000000?epid=1189921185&hash=item3d85b16300:g:~RgAAOSw1Fdch5hi

If it’s not suitable could someone please point me in the right direction.

Thanks

Gary

16 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

Yes that’s exactly how mine is set up ,

Cool, puts my mind at rest, thanks. Cable is ordered !

40 minutes ago, Z3roCool said:

Should be fine I think. I connect my EQMod to a Hub that goes into my laptop directly, not exactly the same but same principle i.e the EQMod cable is not going direct into the laptop. Hope that helps.

That's great, thank you 👍.

Hi All

This might sound like a dumb question but I’m not great with tech and I have never used EQMOD before so I have no experience of this.

So...... I am planning on setting up EQMOD to control my telescope. I have a powered USB hub at the telescope and was going to purchase a short (2m ?) EQDIR USB adapter to link the mount to the USB hub. The USB hub then has a 5M cable connecting to my PC.

Would this work OK or do I need a dedicated EQDIR USB adapter cable running direct to the PC from the mount (5m+) ?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

11 hours ago, Ronclarke said:

Yes it does, make sure you download the drivers etc..

That's great, thank you 👍

Hi All

I was thinking of buying a skywatcher auto focuser with the HitecAstro DC controller. Can anyone tell me if this gear will work with APT software ?

Thanks.

16 hours ago, Waldemar said:

Well, at least there is one consolation:  By the time this issue is solved you can remove the L plate... you will be an expert at this!

Thanks, I'm feeling frustrated that my little problem persists but I've certainly learnt quite a bit so far going through this whole process. The things I used to be really scared to touch (like collimation, moving the secondary about etc..) don't seem scary any more. That's got to be a step in the right direction !

15 hours ago, spillage said:

I have not got access to my 130 but my 150 has only 3 allen screw on the focuser. Have you worked out the orientation of the issue.

If you know which side of the focuser is giving the issue then:

I would be tempted to take all three grub screws out to the point that they do not make any adjustments so you are at point zero, undo the focuser and maybe using the plastic from a milk container pack one side out with a couple of slithers and see it it makes it better or worse. Try all four sides and if that make no difference then make adjustments on the grub screws.

Just one more thought, have you tried rotating the veins around??

spill.

 

 

Thanks, I'll give this a go.

Yes I rotated the spider vanes around but no change, it was only when I turned the focuser upside down that I saw the problem reverse itself. Also looking directly through the centre of the focuser at the spiders the vertical vanes definitely look a touch thicker than the horizontal ones, then when I move my head slightly to the left they narrow up and look fine, I'm guessing this all points to an off kilter focuser of sorts ? 

16 hours ago, Ricochet said:

Have you measured and marked the point directly opposite the focuser and then used a sight tube or laser to confirm the focuser is pointing at it? Also I would definitely use a cheshire/sight tube to centre the secondary mirror, a simple collimation cap is probably not accurate enough. 

Unfortunately, I do not have one of these focusers to know what the different screws are all for. 

Thanks for your reply.

Yes I measured and marked the point directly opposite the focuser and used a cheshire to centre it. Difficult as 2 of the collimation screws are hard/impossible to reach with the focuser tube in ! I used a collimation cap with a small central hole to centre the secondary because this was the advice I have read online, I'll try using the cheshire instead tho.

Well, time for an update.  

I've tried a number of things to resolve this issue without success, I’ve rotated all of the spider vanes round by one to see if it was a single vane issue, I removed the coma corrector, rotated the camera around lots, removed and centred the focuser the best I could, turned the focuser upside down, hacksawed the focuser tube down to reduce intrusion and in the end totally stripped and rebuilt the scope 3 times.

The result...... my scope is now flocked and matt blacked, but I still have the problem ! On the plus side I think I have narrowed down the issue to some sort of focuser tilt ?

Turning the focuser upside down reversed the issue in the image so from that I assume it must be a focuser problem ? I rebuilt the scope 3 times and centred the focuser as carefully as possible each time, but the problem remains.

When collimation is as good as I can get it and I look through the collimation cap I can see the cap reflected but also the edge of the focuser tube at the top right side, suggesting the tube isn’t central ? When I look through without the collimation cap at the spider vanes, the vertical vanes are clearly a touch wider than the horizontal vanes which are a very fine line, if I move my head slightly to the left the vertical vanes narrow up nicely the same as the horizontal ones.

I’m a newby and still feeling my way around here so please correct me if I am wrong, but from this I am assuming that the focuser or focuser tube is tilted somehow ? Every time I have rebuilt the scope I have carefully centred the focuser the best I can using the 3 collimation screws. I am wondering if there are further tilt adjustments available for the focuser/focuser tube to line it up perfectly with the secondary ? There are few more allen screws on the bottom of the focuser but not sure what they all do tbh !