Spaced Out

34 minutes ago, Xsubmariner said:

 If I am too tired to create the flats at the end of the collection night, I generate them the next day before the system is used again and focus altered.
 

Thanks..... So you just use the last focus position you were using in that case, so using that same position for every filter ? 

2 minutes ago, endlessky said:

If you only have vignetting problems, you might get away with doing flats with only one filter (as stated above), or with just one focus position.

Ah, OK, I get it now...... Well my filters are very clean in an enclosed FW so maybe just the 1 lum flats for vignetting is all I need at the moment then ?

That sounds like a decent shortcut !

Hi Adam, thanks for this. I'll just stick to a single focus position then it'll save time 👍.

I thought the point of flats was to remove imperfections (dust etc) on each filter so they need to be filter specific ?

PS - Loving your comet and noctilucent clouds there !

Hi All

Just a quick one, I’m new to mono/filters so this may sound like a daft question !

If you have to make some tiny adjustments to focus for each filter, should you do your flats with those tiny adjustments made between each filter too ? I read that focus should be the same between filters and flats but is the point of focus absolutely critical for flats or could I get away with doing them all at the end of the night at one focus position ? Just trying to cut down on early morning faffing time, I know taking short cuts doesn't always work out tho !

Thanks

20 hours ago, smr said:

Hi guys, 

Imaged for the first time with my newly acquired Canon 600D.... 

The strange pattern lower right - anyone know what that could be, doesn't look like sensor dust... will it clean with a sensor clean, and can anyone recommend a good sensor cleaning kit for the 600D please?

 

Before going in with swabs and fluids I'd try a blower and the camera's own sensor cleaning options.

Lock the mirror open, hold the camera upside down and use a blower to blow up onto the sensor, this may dislodge stuff and have it drop out (make sure the camera is held upside down/sensor facing the floor). If that doesn't work then try the clean sensor now option on the camera's menu.

If they both don't work then consider something more invasive like swabs.

9 minutes ago, DBushell1 said:

In terms of power for the HEQ5 does it come with a regular power lead? I have a normal UK mains socket in the garden that might prove useful, but I can't see mention of how it gets it's power for the goto stuff? 

Just 1 power lead in does all (for the mount that is !), I used standard mains power supply with my outdoor garden plug set up. Got my HEQ5 2nd hand so not sure what it actually comes with new.

42 minutes ago, DBushell1 said:

I do realise though, that astronomy is also a money pit! 🤣 

HUGE !!...... If you let it go that way. I vowed to always be sensible and never do that.......... It didn't work !

11 minutes ago, DBushell1 said:

Have been thinking about switching from my old Astromaster 130 to the SW 130PDS.  Have done a fair amount of planetary imaging in the past with a webcam, but would like to try my hand at Deep Sky imaging using my unmodded Canon 1100D DSLR.

I understand that in order to get the most out of it, you need a good mount, one that is future proof in terms of adding larger aperture scopes to it, however, I see that FLO are selling the 130PDS with a Goto EQ3 mount - is this a sufficient mount for adding the 1100D and potentially one day a guide scope?   Does that mount have connections to plug into a laptop for use with Stellarium?

 

I'd suggest HEQ5 as a minimum tbh. HEQ5 will give you a stable imaging platform with the 130PDS/DSLR combo and make life easier than using a lesser mount. 

I got the HEQ5 but wish I'd waited and saved more for the NEQ6/EQ6R tbh ! NEQ6 or EQ6R can take heavier gear so is a bit more future proof. I've got a 200PDS too and that is right on the limit of the HEQ5's capabilities once you've added heavy camera gear.

23 hours ago, Jack Jack said:

Hi as mentioned earlier i seem to be having collimation issues. Here is an image i took last night with a MPCC and i believe the spacing is correct. i also check for tilt and couldn't identify any and i also went through the collimation process. looking at thisi mage each corner looks different regarding the stars. is there anything else that could be causing this or is this as good as can be expected on a full frame sensor ?

 

IG: https://www.instagram.com/astro_jack6/?hl=en 

 

My advice would be to work through a few possible causes, it might not be just one thing going on here and I don’t have a simple answer I’m afraid !

Do a star test to check collimation is definitely good.

The image seems to show some coma so check spacing of the CC. My MPCC took an evening of careful tinkering to get just right.  

Stars look more out of focus on the bottom left and perhaps left in general which suggests tilt ? Check the MPCC is placed firmly and flat against the fully lowered focuser tube and screw up each screw little by little alternating between screws to try and get it as central as possible. Many folk have tapped a third screw into the focuser tube to help with tilt problems.

Star shapes top left look a bit triangular which is what I had with a pinched primary mirror, it may just be tilt but it can’t hurt to check the mirror clips anyway and loosen slightly if required.

These are all things I had to do to get the best from my 130PDS with the Baader MPCC. The MPCC is good once you’ve got the spacing right but I had to take my time and work through it.

Good luck

2 hours ago, andrew s said:

The rotator is well designed and I don't think it will give you a problem tilt or weight wise in either position. 

Regards Andrew 

Thanks again, very helpful.

I was concerned about tilt from carrying the weight of both the EFW and camera, but it sounds like it should be OK 👍

56 minutes ago, andrew s said:

The EFW is T2 which is m42 0.75mm pitch. I use the Teleskop Services TST2Rot.

Regards Andrew 

That's great 👍

I was looking at those TS rotators so I was hoping someone might recommend them.

Do you have it fitted on the focuser side of the EFW or the camera side ?

Have you had any problems with the weight/tilt ?

Thanks

23 minutes ago, andrew s said:

There are a number of "T2 rotation adapters" just Google. I use one with my ASI 1600 without problems.

Regards Andrew 

Thanks for this. I've already looked and seen a few about. Is the EFW thread T2 then not M42 ?

I am concerned about the weight and introducing tilt so I am looking for recommendations for solid items that work with no issues.

Which adaptor do you use please ?

Hi all

Just wondering if anyone is using a manual camera rotator with the ZWO ASI 1600 Pro ? I’m looking for something solid enough to take the weight of the camera and EFW without tilting.

I’m assuming that putting a rotator between the camera and EFW would lead to greater vignetting with my 1.25” filters ?

Hello everyone

I spent hours scratching my head with this yesterday. Today I woke up looked at it with a fresh head and found a problem and solution (I think ?). I'm posting it here in case anyone has any thoughts (is this the correct solution ?) or anyone else comes across similar issues .

Ok....What I didn't notice in the daytime yesterday was that east and west were actually reversed on the CDC map itself, because it was daylight I was just clicking on things I assumed were on the east of the CDC map to see if the telescope would go in roughly the right direction, it always went in the opposite !

Today I looked again and where I expected east on the map it said west and vice versa. A look through all of the settings and I found chart/transformation/mirror horizontally. I clicked this and the chart flipped, east and west were now where I expected them to be. A quick plug in to the mount and it slewed in the right direction. Problem solved I hope ?

Sure this was just a bit of a schoolboy error not noticing that east and west were reversed on the map itself, in my defence it was daytime and I was just clicking on random stars to see the mounts direction !

Hi All

I hope someone can help.

I’m having a bit of a nightmare with EQMOD and CDC slewing my telescope in the wrong direction. I ask it to go east and it goes west and vice versa. However it parks fine near Polaris.

I have just started using a new laptop to run the mount, it worked fine with my old laptop a couple of months ago. I have installed and uninstalled and re-installed CDC, EQMOD drivers etc but still it slews the wrong way !

I have checked the location info, date and time etc.... they are correct and identical in CDC and EQMOD . The reverse RA/reverse Dec tick boxes in EQMOD are un-ticked.

I have a feeling I am overlooking something obvious here ?

Just to clarify, I have already spoken to TS who said they are 99% it will fit due to the EAFs fitting bracket versatility but they haven't tried it.

Before I shell out for a new focuser it would be good to hear from someone who has this equipment fitted and working.

Thanks

Hi All

Does anyone know if the ZWO EAF auto-focuser will definitely fit this focuser ?

https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p3700_TS-Optics-MONORAIL-2--Newtonian-focuser-with-Micro-Transmission.html

Thanks

I had a go last night. A bit of trial and error with lenses, I wanted some landscape in and so needed to keep it fairly wide angle.

I used a Canon 5D Mk4 + EF 85mm F1.8.

5 secs, ISO 1600, F5.

23 minutes ago, TheCounter said:

The stars in the corners look much better. With the MPCC, I always had a "softening" effect on them (coma and blur in direction of the corners), thats gone with the GPU.

Spacing is easy, I went with the recommendation of 53mm for my QHY294c.

And I need around 35mm backfocus, so you'll need to wind it out a bit more compared to the MPCC. But as it's so long, tilting shouldn't be a problem.

I did replace my focuser though, because the stock focuser was rubbish on my PDS. The new one is strong as hell, another league compaired to the SW focuser.

But to really be sure there won't be any tilt, I designed and printed a anti-tilt and rotation adapter. Thats 4 pieces, 2 hold onto the focuser itself, the other one pushes down the GPU and the third is for displaying camera rotation:

That's impressive ! 👍

I wanted to replace my flaky SW focuser for a UNC V-power or Monorail focuser but I couldn't get an adaptor plate/base to fit it to the small OTA. All I could get off the shelf to fit was a Moonlite which was $$$$$. 

The stock SW focuser seems to be the weak point when you have a heavy mono camera, filter wheel and OAG attached.

2 hours ago, TheCounter said:

Yes I'm really happy with the GPU, its way better than the MPCC. Let alone the fact, it's just too long to tilt, so no problem with that.
 

Thanks for this. In what way do you think it is better apart from the length/tilt thing ? Better looking stars ? Pinpoint stars ? Easier to space ?

Does it need a full length tube and do you have to wind it out quite a long way for focus ? I've got a heavy camera and FW on a stock SW focuser, I'm guessing the further it is wound out the less stable it might become.

On 25/05/2020 at 10:31, TheCounter said:

I'll post a detailed report as soon as it's getting clear again here.

Spacing isnt a big deal thought. Not like with the MPCC.

Just wondering if you're still happy with this CC v the Baader ? Do you have any comparisons ?

I'm considering maybe moving from MPCC to this CC if it performs better.  

2 hours ago, rnobleeddy said:

I was thinking of doing this. Have you had an issues with the mount? Does it have motors/electronics?

It’s a HEQ5 and lots of imaging associated cables under the cover.

Only issue I had initially was condensation but I quickly got a humidity monitor, added some very low wattage (8W) boot warmers and sprayed the whole lot with ACF-50. Not had a problem since, been out there under cover for about a year now. I do air it maybe once a week when it’s dry outside.  

I had no room for an obs but I built an outdoor concrete pier with power running to it and all cables in place (running back to a PC in the shed). I leave the mount outside on the pier (under a breathable BBQ cover with very low level heat running).

This has saved me loads of time lugging stuff in and out and wiring up every night aligning etc. I leave my scope with cameras etc all connected and remove the whole lot in one at the end of the session by just turning off and unplugging wires. To set up I just carry the scope/cameras outside, attach it to the mount and plug in the wiring and flick a couple of switches, takes maybe 5 minutes. Then cooling time of course.

I know it’s not for everyone but it worked well for me, it saves me time and no faffing about every night with wiring, polar aligning and going through star alignments etc.   

30 minutes ago, daemon said:

In principle I don't think it's a bad idea. I have a set of NB filters and am eager to use them but would say there are two things from my POV to consider:-

1) Guiding - you probably want long exposures for the subs, to gather enough data and guiding is likely to be needed to allow this. 

2) Target Selection -  sadly this is the blocker for me. The only viable NB targets worth imaging that I am aware of in the Northern Hemisphere at this time of year lie in the East and mostly around Cygnus (Elephant's Trunk Nebula etc) and as I have trees to the East I can't effectively image that area for long.

So, if you can see decent targets from your location and you can run decent exposure lengths, then maybe it is a viable exercise. For me - unless anyone has another suggestion - I think I will be sticking to broadband galaxy targets until conditions and target locations permit.

Happy to be corrected though!

Good luck!

daemon Steve

17 minutes ago, ebdons said:

Yes you can do NB imaging, depends on object magnitude ,sky quality and filter used, I normally use 12nm filters HA HB etc, but when fullmoon is out and sky is dark blue than you need to go down to 6-7nm and maybe even down to 3nm, that's when it gets expensive tho. as has been mentioned your guiding has to be sorted for long exposures depending on the cam sensor and gain etc. also don't ignore the broadband filters from idas etc like the NB type as they have a good rep from imagers in japan.ton

Thanks both for your replies. I have a set of Astronomik 6nm NB filters and my guiding is good 👍 .

I need to get some practice in with this new gear so I think I’ll give this a go (so long as I can find a suitable target).

Hi All

The skies where I live are now lighter at night with the continuous twilight of mid-summer. At this point I normally give up on using the telescope until maybe mid August.

I am new to using filters and I am wondering whether NB filters might allow me to continue imaging through the summer twilight ? Is this a thing that people do or is it just a stupid idea ?

Thanks.