RolandKol

I just took files per each channel from here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AZtDxo0IwnWAfZ3qtgIYMeSoKr3835ou all looks more or less OK for me. The image below, is a 1minute stretch: slightly cropped, background extrracted and a bit of color adjustment + SCNR (no sharpening or noise reduction)

Just in case, once you will set up all and working, make your Windows System Image BackUp... Saved lots of headache for me few times

I have just compared my .fits Headers and found out strange thing, my NINA and SGP do record resolution values into Headers, yours not.... Also, cannot know if it makes any difference, but worth checking NINA connection section, just in case... P.S. my header from NINA

Not sure about your cam, but once you connect ZWO to NINA, you have 2 options, to use ZWO native drivers or ASCOM ones, - they may behave a bit different, I have not tested.

I just checked the files you shared... Are you using multiple / stacked Calibration subs? or just single? Asking, as you shared only one file per calibration... they should be stacked... The larger amount the better... Furthermore, file names of flats tell, you take them incorrectly.... 2022-10-27_10-31-30_O_-10.00_0.03s_0000.xisf 0.03sec is way too fast sub for Flats, you should target above 0.33sec, closer to 1 sec (can be even 5sec for H), - stack minimum 25 of them. Almost all software now have automated flats procedures (for Example NINA or SGP), the only thing you have to look after, - amount of light coming in, to have longer subs as described.

Hi mate, I would disagree about default springs on SW... Not sure about Quattro, but my 130PDS primary holds collimation almost rock solid... Simply collimate it fully back (away from the secondary), - as much as possible, - in my case even locking bolts are not used and collimation is the same as springs are squeezed almost to the limits. Another question is the focuser.... SW use quite cheap ones and yes, each time you put something IN, you get a slightly different view, - it may be to due tool locking mechanism, drawtube tilt and etc. Do not hurry, check the focuser first, - check via Cheshire once it is vertical, later once it horizontal, take it out, put it back and check again without moving the scope at all.

As I recall Fitswork4 actually worked "quite OK", - it did leave some stiches behind, but not always, plus, I never tried to hide them using Gimp or similar software. Maybe take a look.

Welcom to SGL, Sounds like you want to spend some out of boredom? don't you? In this case Astrophotography is your BEST choice! And you are quite ready as you have the main backbone of it, - AVX mount... If you can handle it after your surgery, - you just need guiding scope, guiding cam, and of course, the main camera (DSLR like Canon/Nikon is ok the the start, or if more money can be sacrificed for Gods of Astrnomy, - dedicated astro cam), some adaptors and bunch of cables. As per Telescopes, - SE6 & ED80, covers most of the targets you will be able to image on AVX, and of course, sadly your 254mm cannon is way too large and too heavy for AVX. For planet photography, - in fact you have SE6 and you just need high speed (high FPS) astro cam something like ASi224MC, which you will be able to use for guiding while imaging DSO. If AVX is too heavy for your helth condition... wide field imaging can also be an option, as it does not need a very precise tracking and guys do it on "portable astronomy mounts".

My, kinda, cloud piercing image Shot in between and even through some clouds, only 2h per channel and STRONGLY overprocessed as my lady liked it more in such a manner.... (probably red colour is luring for ladies)

Extremely nice mate! You even managed to shoot down all the Galileos! P.S. Try to slightly reduce green or simply use the AutoBalance on Registrax as per post below: https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/313652-130pds-planetary-imaging/?do=findComment&comment=3440646

Thanks vlaiv, that's the problem, as pix script spits out 2 values which do look like are in the different measures.... (value and value in decibels) As SNR naming says, it is Ratio, so it should be (I guess) a single value, representing ratio, not some kind of value of "something" and "decibels" of something else. As per drizzle, - 2bin, = I got it, thanks a lot for explanation! I was not expecting magic, but hoped, maybe maybe it can give a slight of SNR. But on Another hand, it looks like it is one of the options to reduce noise by scarifying a bit of detail (and my images are usually very Noisy even in NB)

I posted it, as could not find the answer also... Plus, I am not sure what the figures actually mean. In other places, people speak, like it is obvious 2x2 and dont explain the values... I have posted on pix forums also, have not yet receive any reply.

Hi guys, I was playing with the different stacking options and was trying to evaluate the final result. Visually, stacks are more or less the same, but SNR script shows a bit different values and I am not sure how to interpret them. For example, OIII channel stack, no drizzle: SNR = 3.811e+02, 25.81 db later, the same OIII stacked with x2 drizzle and binned x2: SNR = 7.093e+02, 28.51 db Does it mean, SNR on the drizzled and x2binned "back" sub has ended up almost twice better? Too good to be true....

Just found this vid, - about RC lack/incorrect baffling. is this something usual and I should actually worry about? The problem, - I image almost from under the bloody street lights.... Good news, - I do own 3D printer and even 2 left hands

Update hehe, funny... 130PDS is like a switch army knife Almost

Last night tried again It looks like I am not able to achieve my previous result anymore

Yep, with OAG, - sometimes it is really difficult to pinpoint the position of the prism... With PDS + ASI1600 it works OK, not protruding and no shadow at all, - at least in my case and it took quite awhile to adjust it correctly. With RC8 (if I will get it) I will test with my Evoguide first, but it will cause "The imaging / guiding ratio 1 : 6.62 " . It does not look good on the paper... On another hand, if guiding will be around 0.5" error anyway...

Thanks a lot for the info! As StellaLyra is probably not much different from iOptron, - why not! Plus, I kinda always hate brands starting from letter "i"... not sure why... Completely forgot to add one question... In your case, how flat is image? Should I think of any kind of corrector as a "must get/pay for". I am mostly willing to image wihout a reducer, as I will keep PDS and will be able to use it for a wider FOV's.

Hi guys, I planning a christmass gift for myself willing to upgrade my 130PDS to a slightly larger scope and slightly Longer Focal Lengh as sometimes I am really happy to image planets also. The aim, - to shoot down the Saturn . The main purpose would be DSO (nebulas mainly, - if street light will allow, larger galaxies also). I will hook up ASI1600MM + EFW + AOG (guide scope also available if focuser will start causing problems). Questions: 1) The Main, - "Should I stay, or Should I go????" Please talk me off... Maybe, I should just stay with my 130PDS and Samyang 135... But I have no challenges with them anymore and it can become a bit borring. 2) I use oldie NEQ6 Mount.... The compabilities of this mount with F8 are on the limits... On a "good" night, I manage to guide my PDS down to Total 0.4" error, however usual guiding error is around 0.6", - most likely it is not enough... Recuder? mmm... in this case I can stay with PDS don't I? 3) Focuser... I afraid the default one will not manage to carry such amount of "toys" without causing problems... or not? 4) Primary Mirror, - will it hold the colimation and focus after Meridian Flip? As far as I have managed to find info online, some say no, some say yes for 8" as new versions have slightly upgraded Primary holder, but also no for 6"... Confusing... 5) Not much pictures online which are done using this scope ... A bit scary... 6) Will I need to get any kind of corrector if I am planning to stay on the native FL and do not use reducer? The scope in question: https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/6112.htm P.S. And yes... EdgeHD would be my primary toy to go for... But damn... The price is not in my range...

Set Pix to use 8 swaps and all Threads your CPU supports (most likely something around 8), and run again. (just dont forget to apply new settings by pressing the circle/dot in the bottom-left... I keep forgetting this step on Pix...)

With Ryzen 9 CPU you will be close to the top end anyways... Just completely forgot, if you do not afraid using Linux, - try to adjust Pix and set Swap to RAM (linux allows this trick, windows don't), just be careful, as Swap files can become very large, so this option can be counter-productive. I would probably avoid doing that with 16Gb RAM, but no one forbids testing. Swap file on RAM should make read/write process faster by "pleasant" amount. Pix kinda likes a bit of larger amount of Swaps, so set 4 or 8 or even 12 in total, - also test how it performs on the current set up. and if it will show you any benefits, decide about initial RAM size per slot (For example 16+16 or just 32 and upgrade later with the second 32 or go for dual 64 from the start) I dont play with linux anymore and cannot test for you unfortunately, but previously i had my Chrome running directly from RAM and it caused a lot of joy

Just to finalise

If stacking is an the main issue, honestly my 11th gen i7 vs 8gen i5 does not show much of improvement. Improvement IS, for sure, but there is no "wow" effect. I sometimes use i5 9th or 10th gen (do not remember) intel based Desktop PC for stacking (in my office), - not sure if it works faster than my current laptop on i7, I kinda feel even opposite... However again, I have not ran any specific tests, it is just internal feeling... You can google or check pixs forums for benchmarks and compare to yours, - maybe it will lead you towards something optimal. To improve stacking, you probably need to target for the fastest read/write setup with powerful CPU with more working threads... In this case, probably Desktop pc with i7 or i9 like CPU's and very fast SSD and motherboard supporting all of that, will give out quite a Noticeable improvement, but it will cost quite a amount of beers or candies you could buy and if you are ready to cash out just for this purpose, why not.

Not a problem... Just keep in mind, - in my case it is still a laptop... As I am not any kind of video dev or gamer... I do not see the reason to by a bulky tower + screen + space... if laptop is still the option for you, Lenovo Legion 5 can be as a benchmark to start from... I guess all Legions will have one or another GPU, - sadly, I cannot advise if you need one, mine has GF4060

From my investigations, - looks like Pix do not use GPU, so maybe this part can be left aside... However, I can be wrong... As I am probably just a bit more tech educated than you as I know the purpose of the Swap file but probably not much more... As I bough my laptop quite recently, also investigated the options, and AMD CPU (similar level one, for example Ryzen 7 5800h) actually runs faster on some applications, for example Excel, plus it has better power management! And I would go for AMD if not a great discount which was offered for this laptop with i7 CPU, which, on another hand is a bit more universal As Pix involves Lots of calculations per sec, maybe... maybe, AMD can be better option. RAM 16GB should be more than enough (8GB will also be OK, my older laptop with i5 and 8Gb was also quite comfy with Pix), SSD min 512GB, the rest as your wallet allows, new CPU's. AMD vs Intel, - it is the argument as Windows vs Mac or Linux... Intel will be more universal and will have more new tech in it for sure and will be more expensive. If you are not gamer or video developer cheaper AMD is probably very reasonable way to go.