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RayD

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Posts posted by RayD

  1. 2 hours ago, Alien 13 said:

    Looking at one of the videos it seems to suggest that the whole back end comes off including the rotator (not the focusser) which should give more back focus for a diagonal but looks like it needs to be special ...

    Alan

    I think the rotator drops off, Alan, and is where the filter slot is located. These are all the things I need to try I think.

    I've got my pipe wrenches, burning gear, grinder and welder at the ready.............. Only kidding, Steve ?

    • Haha 1
  2. 6 minutes ago, Craney said:

    Looks very cool and nicely designed.  

    I would be interested to know how easy the focusing ring is to adjust and get absolutely spot-on with the mask.   Can it compete with the best Feathertouch, Moonlite etc....

     

    It's 'firm' I would say, but the one I played with may not be a full production model possibly.  I think it will be smooth on the production models, and also seems to have a very good ratio, so fine adjustment should be easily possible. 

    The focuser is actually one of the things I am most interested in as it is the bit that is most different, with most opting for Crayford or R&P, so it should be really interesting to test this out.

    • Like 1
  3. 1 minute ago, Alien 13 said:

    I cant see that matters, the scope will probably spend most of its time on portable rigs like the SA and most likely with a DSLR or simple CMOS camera set up for hands on AP.

    Alan

    This was my thoughts too, Alan.  I think when you see how compact it is, and the fact that the dovetail also has a standard tripod profile, it seems evident that WO intended for this to be used on a mobile set up, and not in an automated fixed observatory necessarily. 

    It may even be that due to the small objective and fully aluminium construction it doesn't need lots of re-focusing anyway?  It may be an idea to spend one night just measuring FWHM levels to see how much this changes with respects to temperature change.

    These are all good comments actually as it is helping me compile a list of specific tests to carry out.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  4. 19 minutes ago, R26 oldtimer said:

     

    Oops!! That seems to be that scopes Achilles heel, that will kill it for astrophoto. I think no one will fiddle with 3d printed solutions and stepers to focus a £750 50mm scope.

    Hmmm  I'm not sure I entirely agree.  For me personally one of the biggest issues with larger sensors is star elongation often caused by sag in the focus tube, particularly when using filter wheels etc.  You can focus manually with the helical focuser, as you do with many Borg refractors, using the built in Bahtinov mask, which isn't a deal breaker, but a non orthogonal image train definitely is.

    Time will tell, but I will certain do long imaging runs also to see how temperature affects focus.

    I think, as with DSLR's, many people will come up with a cheap and useful 3D printed solution..........GINA!!!!!! (add this to your list please ?)

    • Like 2
  5. 5 minutes ago, happy-kat said:

    Diagonal use tests please with a:

    bog standard one

    Erect image one

    A posh dielielectric one

    My initial thoughts are I think this is going to need the short WO screw fit one.  From what I could see it doesn't come with a compression fitting, only the M48 screw back on the rotator.

    I'll definitely try everything I can to fit one, and have more adaptors than an adaptor factory so I reckon if it can be fitted, then I will make it fit.

    • Like 3
  6. 7 minutes ago, Lockie said:

    I didn't know you had a YT channel Ray, I've off course subbed, That CEM120 is a beast!

    As for the helical focuser on the 'Cat', if done right I think it could actually feel better than a single speed crayford fro example. 

    Thanks Chris, much appreciated.  

    Yes the CEM120 is certainly a lump!!  I'm doing a long-term series of videos on that, so new videos will be going up pretty regularly on that one.

    I agree, I think the helical could be a boon, certainly compared to a Crayford.  I think when you handle the OTA you can see why they have gone this route as it provides for a super compact instrument.

    I'm quite excited about testing it and thank @FLO for the opportunity to do so.

    • Like 1
  7. As a follow on to Steve's post, I am more than happy to run any tests or checks that people want, and include this in my review video.  Feel free to post here or PM me with any specific test that you would like, or certain dimensions etc. (I do tend to show these anyway).

    I current aim to run tests with the following:

    Atik 460 - ICX694

    Atik Horizon - MN34230 (4/3" CMOS)

    Atik 16200 - KAF16200 (APS-H)

    Canon EOS 450D (APS-C)

    I will also try to get some tests using a full frame sensor but, as Steve notes, I personally think it may be a little optimistic to expect this to cover this with a flat and well illuminated image circle but, who knows, we'll give it a go. 

    • Like 2
  8. 6 hours ago, Demonperformer said:

    Watched the video and it looks like a clever piece of kit. I'm not sure I like the helical focusser, but I guess as it doubles as a TP lens it makes sense.

    I thought exactly the same thing, and wondered how easy it will be to add a modified auto-focus kit to it.  However, I then thought about the benefit of no focuser draw tube sag and it made a bit of sense as far as imaging goes.

    • Like 1
  9. 8 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

    And it matches my nice red SA so obviously got to have one, the wifes new car is getting cheaper by the day :grin:

    Dave

    Exactly, Dave. And when have you ever let resistance stand in the way of you and new Astro kit? 

    They have a GM3000 there. OMG that is a beastie and a bit. Makes the GM1000 sitting next to it look tiny! 

    • Like 1
  10. Saw this at Astrofest today on the Widescreen Centre stand. Very nice indeed! 

    Actually a little heavier than I was expecting, but to be expected with a Petzval I suppose. 

    If this performs as well as WO need it to, I can see this being a firm winner for widefiled and mobile set ups with ASI Air and SA or GTI or similar. 

    I wonder at what point want becomes need ?

    • Like 2
  11. 2 minutes ago, LightBucket said:

    To my point you are referring, what I was trying to say, is if the new felt is thicker then the rings won’t be closing as far and the overhang may not be an issue, and just to try it first, unless you need that space to full tighten, then remove..mine have about a 3mm gap when fully tightened down so mine do have the felt all the way to the end, as it’s not an issue...

    Putting new felt on about a mm thicker does make a big difference to how much the rings will then close up.. :)

    Hope that explains better.. :)

    I got what you were saying.  All I noted was to cut the overhang off first before changing the felts as if that is stopping the rings closing fully, which is possibly is, then it could be a simple fix.  It may not be and, in fact, it may need felt 0.5mm or so thicker, but had to be worth a try so was merely a suggestion :thumbright:

    • Like 1
  12. 10 minutes ago, AbsolutelyN said:

    If the overhang is the issue then it may have been easier to just remove that bit as I found removing the felts hard and have very slightly marked the rings because of it. I have used the scope after changes though and it does appear to grip the tube very firmly now. 

    This is why I suggested earlier just cutting that bit off first as it will be preventing the two halves closing fully.  Even so, it does seem pretty close given that you're only gaining a couple of mm and, as Steve points out, in a few months you may well be back to square 1 with the rings fully clamped.

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