Anthonyexmouth

Decided to attach a mini pc to my pier instead of using my 15m usb lead and laptop. It's arriving in a few hours, is there much benefit in reinstalling Windows to an nvme drive I have spare instead of the emmc that it comes installed on? I know the nvme is much faster but does that really make a difference for pier control? 

28 minutes ago, ONIKKINEN said:

I have a USB travel router attached to it that creates its own wifi network, just without actual internet connectivity. I then connect my tablet to that dummy wifi and control the PC with remote desktop on android. Works anywhere, even when there is no cell reception in some backwater dark sky location.

For file transfer i just use a USB stick.

Ah ok, in setting it up on a permanent pier and pretty sure a hot stop won't reach to my bedroom for monitoring during the night. It'll have to connect to my home network. I'll just set up the active hours to stop reboots

Ok, here's another question for you pier mounted mini pc guys. When you remote in, do you have your chosen apps start on boot or do you manually start them? 

33 minutes ago, ONIKKINEN said:

Transfer the executables/installers with a USB stick and install them on the mini-pc. You can keep your mini-pc offline indefinitely and dont need to download anything on it!

My mini-pc has never, and will never be connected to the internet. Makes life much easier with windows being unable to "help" by updating itself randomly.

How do you keep it offline? 

32 minutes ago, StevieDvd said:

I'd say that most should be installed cleanly and not copied as apps today generally use the %AppData% location to store settings and local configurations.

I kinda thought that, was wishful thinking I guess. Only done a fresh install a couple of weeks ago and was hoping to avoid it. 

Just ordered a mini pc for my pier, does anyone know if Nina, phd2, sharpcap, apt, platesolve2, astap stellariun are all self contained in their own folder and can be copy/pasted to new pc or will I have to reinstall some or all? 

12 minutes ago, mackiedlm said:

I just recently tried to install the EAF on my Evostar 80ED stock focuser. I had seen people use the focus stopping screw and the counter screw for fixing. I was not keen to do that as I felt removing the counter screw could be a bad idea possibly leading to difficulty tensioning the focuser (based on the document budgie linked above which I had already followed to stop my focuser slipping - because it not a great focuser anyway.). So I decided to use the 4 "fixing screws". That meant buying some longer screws because, as you say, the supplied ones are too large. ( M3 x 14mm is what I think fitted) However, because the screws were too big to come out through the EAF bracket I had to remove all 4 to start with - separating the two parts as shown.

But when I was fitting it back together I hit significant problems.

During first re-attach the teflon bearing slipped out and I needed to loosen the tension to get it back in. On second try I found that it was very difficult to get a proper tension on the focuser. After much trial and error I got a tension that seemed about right. But after the first few maneuvers with the EAF there was a cracking noise and everything went loose. One of the bearings within the focuser which the tube runs on had broken. I suspect that I'd done a bad job of tightening things back up putting stress on the bearing, I ended up buying a whole new focuser from FLO (Their Astro Essentials one specifically for the 80ED which is a much better piece of kit anyway and which I am very happy with)

So, if i were doing it again on the scock focuser I'd connect the bracket with just two diagonally opposite fixing screws (meaning the housing would not be removed or even loosened) and one in the focus stopping screw hole. As I say, several people have done it with the focus stopping screw hole and the counter screw hole but I was just not comfortable with that. But perhaps its fine.

 

Good luck.!

 

Edit ; I bought the following from amazon to ensure I had appropriate lengths of M3 screw. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075TYHG5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for that. Thought I was going mad because everyone says it's a simple install for the ed80. I also seems my spindle isn't running true on the focuser, although it doesn't show up with the original knob. It might be the machining of the coupler. I wish I could hurry up and make my decision on the wo gt-71 or the askar fra400, I'd be putting the eaf on one of those then instead of the ed80. 

37 minutes ago, Budgie1 said:

Try to use the fixing screws, there should be some longer ones with EAF to replace the ones on the focuser. This may help in identification: https://stargazerslounge.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=301468

You'll also need to the remove the locking screw, as you don't need it with the EAF fitted.

The ones that came with it are the wrong size and would be too short anyway. The ones already installed are longer than the ones provided but still just a tad too short. 

Just picked up my eaf from FLO but not entirely sure how the mounting plate fixes to my sw ed80 with stock focuser. Got the course adjustment off and there's only a tiny bit of shaft to fix to buy seems ok. What screws in the focuser do I remove to use to fix the plate? 

17 hours ago, iapa said:

The one thing I would say I that you should use the recommended ZWO PSU for the ASI Air Pro, and separate power for the mount.

I have found that the power demand for imaging camera, guide camera, EAF, and dew strip (using Lynx Astro DC male to RCA adapter cable)  is easily met by the ZWO PSU.

Sometime ago I posed current draw for these, I'll try to find it.

I have my power fed to my pier from my workshop underground. Got a 20A bench supply and I don't use an asiair. 

17 hours ago, iapa said:

One less cable  both support a ZWO cooled camera, filter wheel easily enough. 

Quick to optimise focus at start of session - of course needs a rough focus before first autofocus, after that, it just works - but I bring the OTA and accessories in when necessary, so no need to recalibrte

 

I really like the one cable solution but was worried it might be a huge compromise somewhere. I have a permanent setup so would hopefully need very little work after first setup. I think I'll give the zwo a go and save a few quid towards an optolong filter. 

17 hours ago, iapa said:

I've go one of those as well - the 1st 12v version I bought. The pair of 5V EAFs both seem OK

Did you notice much difference between the 5v and 12v versions? 

7 hours ago, Budgie1 said:

Is the raw image you posted a stack or just a single sub? The FITS header says it's an individual light frame from NINA, so has it had any calibration?

Below is the same frame with an STF stretch applied in PI and it shows vignetting on the edges, which is worse than the bit in the centre. The smudge in the centre should calibrate out when stacked, unless it's condensation, as David suggested, and then it may increase in size as the session goes on.

Just a single sub. what worried me was when you zoom in on that patch it looks kinda artificial, I stoppped imaging the night before last when I saw it and had a look in the morning at the image train but couldnt see anything. I'm just stacking last nights subs now but on a quick check it didn't seem to be there later. I only grabbed 30 mins on M13 while I was waiting for another target to clear my neighbours roof. 

3 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

What camera is it? It looks like condensation. 

asi294. 

Just noticed this odd patch on my images. it appears as a smudge but looks odd when stretched. Anyone know if this is camera sensor damage or an actual smudge that I can't see. I've looked and cleaned where i can. Here's a jpg showing the area and a raw image to look at in detail. _0000_Great_Star_Cluster_in_Hercules_10_50_120_2022_06_11_RGB_VNG.xisf

I guess what I really want to know is whats the extra £££ getting me on the Sesto/Pegasus over the zwo. 

Just adding, if it makes a difference, it'll be going on a sw ed80 to start and then either a gt71 or askar fra 400 when I can finally decide which one to go for. 

34 minutes ago, VectorQuantity said:

Having used both EAF and Sesto senso (and Moonlite) on multiple scopes.

ZWO EAF works well, as long as one of the ZWO choice of mounting plates fits your scope, or you adapt a ZWO supplied one. Backlash seems good, accuracy seems good, undecided about load handling.

Sesto senso 'can' be fine but suffers from it's mounting method. The attachment point being the outside of the focuser train which is not necessarily concentric with the focuser shaft. If the focuser shaft and focuser 'outer' are not concentric the Sesto senso will 'wobble'. Backlash seems to appear if 'wobble' is present, otherwise accuracy seems good, load handling seems good.

Thanks, been looking through the reviews and noticed people complain about the backlash on the zwo, but wondering how much of that is the focuser itself and not the auto focuser, unless the new 5v version is better than the old 12v one. Just seems a waste spending nearly £100 more on the Sesto or Pegasus for little benefit. 

Ok, let the fight begin, which is great, zwo eaf, Pegasus focus cube or the Sesto senso? Anyone had experience of comparing them? 

Does anyone here have a recommendation for a printer for 6x8 or 8x10 prints?

I've got a little selphy dye sublimation printer that's really great but I'd love to print slightly larger at home. 

Ink jets really bug me. Got a good 6 colour canon one but don't use it enough so it wastes a lot of ink. Docs get printed with my laser. 

If I'm stacking images from multiple nights with different flats do I stack them separately and then integrate the stack of stacked images. 

Awesome, thanks. I'll give that a go myself now. 

Surely just a specific adapter that changes the thread size, Probably the "for ED80" is just there to say its for some specific ed80 that had those threads. You'll just need whatever adpater it is that threads onto your drawtube and converts it to the FF/R

ok,  different image now and a new try with PI, Got 7hr on the Iris nebula. Ive tried DBE and ABE. are those the tools to remove this green and purple blotches

Iris Processed.tif

55 minutes ago, davidc135 said:

Tricky! But I'd want to check out the mirror + diagonal before spending much on the parts you mention and I'd certainly not assume that they were good quality, although they may be.

Orion Optics offer a mirror evaluation service either basic or advanced prior to re-coating which is worth thinking about but the costs mount up.

Or you can investigate the Foucault knife edge test using stuff around the house.

David

PS A search shows quite a number of good reviews of the Europa scopes.

One of the reasons I bought it back in the day was the good name of their scopes. It's just the OTA I have now, and maybe the old eq1 style manual drive head but that can stay in the loft. I know i'll need a new focuser as this one is knackered and not suitable for imaging but the tube is straight and spider is good. Might have to drop orion and email and see if I can get an honest opinion on it.