Anthonyexmouth

44 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

@ollypenrice

Maybe we could divide whole workflow into couple separate steps and then define "standard" and "non standard" ways to do it? For example:

1. Pre processing - this is calibration and stacking. Not much to choose here from - there are only couple of ways one can stack and in reality - one algorithm can cover 99% of cases as being best option

2. Processing - this is again something that can be very "standardized" - as it involves set of steps that are always performed the same:

- cropping if there is a need for it (I would say cropping should be part of stacking process)

- background wipe

- color calibration

- initial stretch (which will be very gentle to allow people to see what is there in the image)

to name few.

3. Post processing. I'd say that this step is optional. Much like daytime photography, one can choose to have image as is from camera after standard processing or decide to enhance it further for wanted effect. This is something that can't and should not be standardized - and I think that software like PS or Gimp is best tool for this (as it is done for that purpose).

 

Whats your opinion on stacking? DSS, PI or something else?  

• Just run a 240v extension to the rig. Much better than long lengths of 12v

1 hour ago, newbie alert said:

Yeah is it the osc version?

yes

3 hours ago, newbie alert said:

8 layers of T shirts... Abit excessive..  they're  there only a diffuser.. take it you're doing this early morning or pre dark ?

the 294 is a bit picky with flats, you need them to be quite long compared to other cameras so getting the light dim enough for the correct ADU can be hard. 

4 minutes ago, The Lazy Astronomer said:

Ah yes, I see the filename now! At 10:35 this morning the sky would have been very bright (making the assumption you are in Exmouth) and the 294 is very sensitive (QE wise), so I'm not surprised. The panel will help with repeatability for sure, but with no brightness control you're likely to still need a fair amount of tshirt or paper to get the flats long enough I reckon. 

I use a cheap led tracing panel and even on the lowest brightness level (which is still pretty bright, mind) l need about 4 layers of a white pillowcase for the L filter - this is with the 294 mono. 

P.s. nothing wrong with being lazy!!😁

it wasnt very bright this morning, thick cloud cover but very even, thought it would be ok. I tried a ligghtbox from amazon but it was side lit so didnt work very well so sent it back. I'll build a little mounting box for the EL panel and get some thin sheets of opaque acrylic and add layers until i reach the right level. 

Having the pier and everything always setup is lovely but breeds bad habits. 

59 minutes ago, The Lazy Astronomer said:

What's wrong with 8 layers of tshirt? Are the flats properly correcting the lights? 

no idea if they are working yet, only took them this morning. 

I just dont remember ever having to use 8 layers before. 

I am hoping this EL panel I've got coming will help me make a more repeatable and easier process of taking flats. I kinda got lazy in the past having a permanent setup and went long periods between making new flats. 

Yes, this old problem again.

Just tried to take some new flats with the t-shirt method on a uniformly overcast sky with NINA and had to use 8 layers of thick cotton t-shirt to get in the 40% adu range which ended up as a 3.9ish sec sub. This seems like an excessive amount of t-shirt from what i remember doing the last time. If i removed a layer NINA said the image was too bright

I've ordered an EL panel, non controllable though. I'm hoping to get into some better work practise with my flats and take them more regularly but the 294 needs longish flats, any advice on how I can make this a more painless slap on and go kinda setup. I want something easily repeatable. 

APT flats wizard was no better. 

Heres a flat from NINA2022-05-14_10-35-47__-14.80_3.95s_0000.fits 

2 hours ago, StuartT said:

Looking good! Hadn't spotted this thread before, but it's great to see step by step how you did it. Great job!

One thing I've never understood about the Todmorden pier is why the pier adapter isn't screwed down tight and flat to the top of the pier. It always seems to be perched an inch above it just on the four bolts. Surely bolting it flat to the pier would be more stable? (I know I must be wrong, as everyone does it that way, but I don't understand why)

Little bit of levelling adjustment. I've got even more and its rock solid, nothing to worry about. Mine is solid concrete which helps

29 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

Yes, I can understand not wanting automated multi-intervention routines designed which take several steps at once. However intelligently they guess at what you need, they still guess and I never want that. Then again, I like processing and am never in a hurry with it. One step at a time, for me.

Olly

Oh I hate processing, much prefer the technical side of image capture. 

15 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

I'm amazed that you'd find Pixinsight easier than...well...anything. However, those who become very expert in its use can match the results from Photoshop. 

Olly

I not saying it's easier or intuitive but APP was driving me nuts. What I like about pi is it's very modular and the processes are easier to compartmentalise in my head. I can pull out a few and work through them. 

File sizes or image sizes? Are you shooting raw? 

5 minutes ago, The Lazy Astronomer said:

Here's a few recommendations:

EZ processing suite - simplifies some of the more complex things like deconvolution and noise reduction while you're learning https://darkarchon.internet-box.ch:8443/

GHS script for stretching https://ghsastro.co.uk/

Starnet v2 (much better than v1 which comes with PI) https://www.starnetastro.com/

GAME script to assist in mask creation http://www.skypixels.at/pixinsight_scripts.html

I got the EZ suite, where does it appear in PI?

10 minutes ago, Budgie1 said:

Have a look at the tutorials by Mitch, I found them useful when I started with PI.

Others have recommended Adam Brock's tutorials.

I watched and worked through the mitch videos a while ago with my trials, wasn't sure if they were still valid with recent updates.

Adams videos are good

2 minutes ago, PeterCPC said:

I can't understand moving away from APP. The words "Pixinsight" and "easy" do not go together IMO.

I found APP so frustrating, I used the trial of Pix a few times and with the tutorials on youtube made a much better job, its not that intuitive but once you know a good routine it works. 

Well I finally had enough of Gimp and APP and splashed out on Pixinsight.

Is there a handy list of some must have scripts or plugins? Something easy to follow and install? 

Thanks, I only use a very mild LP filter, I've been using 120/30 for the last 3 years with the camera and been ok. Been so long since I had to tinker with any settings couldn't remember what driver I had been using. 

Just reinstalled APT and can't for the life of me remember if I was using ZWO driver or ASCOM driver for my camera. Which is the best choice? 

I am also gonna rebuild my darks library, Is 120 gain still the best allrounder choice for this camera for most situations?

Does the ZWO driver set the gain/offset in APT like the ASCOM driver does? 

Post an image, it's worth noting that fractions of a mm can make a difference, very easy to overshoot. 

Got a little fractal kinda smudge on my filter, what's the safest cleaning method? You can see it at the top of the filter just above the light reflection . It's not a finger print

2 minutes ago, Mandy D said:

I think you'll find the Skymax a lot more portable than the RC to be fair.

portability isn't an issue, its going on a permanent pier setup. 

9 minutes ago, Mandy D said:

The Skymax 127 was on my list, but I rejected it in favour of the flatter field of the RC6 as I wanted to do imaging. The RC6 is not as small or portable as I imagined it would be as it has a baffled tube and lots of back focus, but the Crayford focusser is nice and smooth.

The skymax is looking promising, my main imagining rig will sit alongside it, it's really just there to fill in some time and play about with when the moon is in the way or the odd planet is in a good position. 

Ok, so I've kinda decided on swapping out my SW ED80 with a Sharpstar 76 Triplet. I have been running a side by side setup with the ED80/ASI294 and a startravel 80/ASI290mc guider. All working well and guiding is great but need something a bit better corrected so going with the SS.

Now, i'm also thinking of ditching the star travel too and going for a smaller 50mm guide scope and then balancing the side by side rig with something for occasional lunar/planetary EAA/imaging, nothing fancy just something to use to fill in nights where targets are slim pickings or summer when nights are too short for serious imaging. 

I'm thinking something s/h, maybe an ioptron 6" RC, Celestron C5 or skymax 127.

What do you think would be the best choice? Am I missing something obvious? 

Well, they got some generic round ones that might work but shipping is twice the price of the eye cups. was really hoping i could find some winged ones to fit. Bloody annoying as I use them a lot in the summer at night when imaging. 

Can anyone here link me to any useful but newbie friendly gimp scrips/plugins for processing. I'm a rather below average processor so need some help. 

Ok, it's Saturday night, I've had a couple of glasses of port so time to mix it up a bit. 

Looking at the sharpstar 76mm triplet and it's TS optics counterpart. SS version has 1 ed element, the TS has 2. 

I can get the SS locally bit not sure about the TS, Flo do offer TS reflectors but not refractors. 

The saving would allow me to buy an optolong lextreme but do I really need that in a bottle 3/4 area?