barrie greenwood

Not sure why it's failing to be honest . Was it a single frame you solved

Hi guys . I'm trying to plate solve through photometric colour correction in pixinsight and all I get back is failure when using my stacked m31 fitts file however if I solve 1 single neff file (raw) its has no issues solving and then colour correction . I guess it doesn't like the fitts files but I use dss to stack and it willnonly give you fitts or tiffs to save the stacked image. I've uploaded the stacked image to astro. Net and it solved it no issues Any help or direction more than appreciated TIA Baz

I'll do it when I get home Not sure why you could not open it I downloaded it and opened in Windows viewer no problem. Strange

this is the link to the original file from DSS https://www.dropbox.com/s/g6do98wq154uzc5/Autosave.tif?dl=0 Regards

Hi guys spent some time last night on m81 I posted up a few weeks back with strange colour rings and noise on a different image which got a good bit of feedback . so last night i took 120 40 second subs of M 81 and moved the mount every 10 shots to dither it today spent some time processing them through dss and pixinsight but it seems poor to me with a lot of colour noise I can post up a link of the original file as it came out of DSS if anyone wants ago at it All comments and recommendations welcomed Regards Baz

Thanks you have just saved me a few quid 😉regards Baz

I live in a class 5 bortle area and was thinking of putting a lp filter on to help out with the light pollution. But after reading a post on here im not sure it would help much as one if the posts said they only help with the cast from the sodium lamps which are no longer used around me . The lights near me are the led type . My question is is this correct so the lp filter would make little difference to my images . Regards Baz

🤣🤣🤣I'll take 2

Thanks guys . So can anyone help with the clouds 🤣

Hi guys a really simple question to those that know. When I set up my tripod scope etc this is how I do it . Set tripod and scope balanced then polar align. Then set the synscan to align 3 stars. Once aligned I then skew to object and start to image. . Question is do I still need to do that is I'm using apt PhD and plate solve with carte de sol or just point it rough Thanks in advance Regards Baz

Ok ive succeeded in sorting out a home brew set up for the nikons that need the lead to run the camera with apt Works well and cheap to produce

Thanks Mark I'll try again

Exposure is 35 secs. Iso is 400. 85 lights and 25 of everything else bias etc. In dss I just allow it to use its defaults. And process in pixinsight . I think that there was thin high level cloud at some point and the site is hardly a dark site it seems worse after all these led lights started going up. Is the noise camera related or environmental related just seem to be struggling with it wheres a couple of years back with the same set up there seemed to be no where near as much noise . Regards

Tried out this but unfortunately the nikon D90 isn't supported by it 😕

Well I had another go but noise is still a problem

So I take all my lights darks flats etc and convert the lot to dng files and run it through thst program then process them

Iso is the same as the old film speed in photography it relates to the sensitivity of the film or sensor in a digital so it picks up more light the faster the fim or higher iso. There's a home brew lead for the camera on the cloudy nights site so I'll be making that tomorrow when the parts come from amazon Regards

Morning bud Where did you find that info. I've looked before and could not find one Regards

Thanks ill give it a go tomorrow I'm using a nikon d90 that I can't connect to the apt program as there is no lead that will work apparently so if I set the delay on my intravoltmeter to allow the move and settling afterwards it may work Regards

Hi . I've a laptop apt and eq mod that will connect to the mount so how do I go about doing the above . I spent a good bit of time last week getting the scope set up and sorted and then a good bit of the time freezing in the garden 😬gathering the subs and the result was dismal 🤣 light pollution from the moon played a big part in this issue with the color rings so I need to work on that but by the sounds of it the walking noise is easy to correct.. But ive no idea how to use the dither without guiding. Regards Baz

I'm imaging I have to agree with you to some point though the more cash your spending on your mount is money we'll spent. But in fairness the eq5 pro is capable if giving decent results...provided care and time is taken in its set up. I think the op is having issues with the basics of the set up and needs to mark the mount in the home position to enable a same start point every time this would help them from the off . Below are taken when I started up with the eq5 Pro unguided with my dslr a cheap as chips set up as your going to find

Hi thsts simply not true I own a eq5pro and use it unguided for the last 3 years to start with you must marl with a felt tip the home position to get the home position perfect park the scope and use a small spirt level on the Dec axis to get it perfectly level once level tighten up the Dec thumb lock an mark the top of the Dec axis mount in a line into the mount itself so when the Dec moves it separates the line then do the same on the RA axis. Now you have your home marked and always a reference point when starting up the mount . Then make sure the mount leg with n on it is north and use an app called synscan init to get the data and the position of polaris and set into the polar scope. Then set your alignment when it skews to the first star don't use the keys to center it but loosen the Dec and set the star center on the Dec axis then the ra axis by loosening the ra screw . Second star use the keypad third star use the key pad to center . It will now be aligned . Each time you are using the keypad to center the alignment star always finish the the up button and then rhe right button. The lines you mark on the mount will always allow you to set from exactly the same point . Regards

The flame photo I had the problems with was over 200 stacked 30 seconds exposure photos if I increase the iso it makes the film faster in old terms catching more photons but adds noise . The issues was not the frames themselves but one the walking noise and two the coloured rings . The walking noise I now understand and someway the coloured rings is an artifact produced in nikon cameras . To combat the rings which is a nikon camera issue mark says in his article to have the histogram 1/4 to the left in the subs this is what I don't understand as to do that it means shortening the exposure time or dropping the iso both in effect cutting light the third factor is light pollution, at a dark site I could increase the exposure time without adding as much light from the surrounds which I think would help with the rings from the nikon lossy raw files

Very interesting article that and yes I can firm its a problem on the other nikons also my d90 being one . So I always thought the aim was to get as long an exposure as possible to gather more data if I was to keep the histogram in the far left I would have to dial down the iso and drop the exposure time of the lights . Also interesting is the time I took my lights the moon was up in full not hi but enough to cast a glare so I'm thinking the light pollution is a factor in this as well . Regards Baz

I've looked at apt and seen the dither on there but could not work out how to use dither without guiding