emyliano2000

This time I started the photos in pixinsight and applied the noise reduction while still in linear state. After the initial stretch I reduced the star size in the Oiii and Siii shots (being my first narrowband image, I didn't know how to use the camera and I used high gain and long exposure giving me very fat stars on those 2 channels) and only after that I combined them into SHO. Photoshop is still my main editor and I do use Annie's action tools (always as a layer to be able to control a bit the overall result) but what you said make sense and I will give it a go in the near future, thank you. Emil

Beautiful indeed. I put it on my to do list Emil

Sorry to resurrect this old post but y esterday I went back to my first full narrowband image to see how much my processing has improved and this is the result that I came with. What do you think? Emil

I did speak to Zoltan in the middle of the week and he said that he's waiting for the shipment from China, no ETA though 😥 Emil

Still waiting for mine. Emil

Hello and welcome to SGL. I'm doing astrophotography from my back garden in Bushey and with a lot of patience and integration time you can get some pretty good results. You can see what can be achieved on my Web page https://emilandronic.co.uk/deep-space-photos Ivinghoe is indeed a very good location, if you can get your gear up to the beacon, it's even better. I camped there for one night and I loved it. Emil

Just spoke to Zoltan and he put me on the list for the 31mm 3nm set Emil

That's great, thanks for the info. I will get in touch with Zoltan too. Hopefully the price difference between the 3.5nm and the 3nm will not be extremely high. Emil

I thought that looks more like a sii stack Emil

Sorry to bring this topic back. Antlia is coming out with the 3nm pro versions rated OD5 and much higher transmission levels. Can't find anyone selling in the UK but in the US Agena astro has the 3nm Ha in stock. https://agenaastro.com/antlia-3-0nm-narrowband-h-alpha-ha-pro-imaging-filter-2-mounted.html Emil

I was planning to add more data to this beautiful cluster but with the horrible weather that we have here in the UK, I just couldn't find the time so I processed the little data that I managed to gather on it. This is 5x3min Luminance and 2x3min for each R, G and B, so only 33 min in total with the 6" RC reduced at 1027mm and the QHY163M. I used the Star Spike Pro 4 in photoshop to enhance the spikes. I think it looks great, what do you think? Emil

I have a RC now that's giving me some pretty spikes 😁 There is a plugin for photoshop that I use. It's called StarSpikes Pro 4 from Pro Digital software. It's actually on sale now. Emil

Call it HOO or HaRGB, I don't really care, the Cave nebula, shot with a TS65, ASI294MC, 158x300sec Ha and 100x300sec Tri-band. I didn't extract the Ha and Oiii from the Tri-band shots and I used it like I would use a normal RGB and added the Ha on the red channel and a little bit as luminance. Happy with how it looks. A lot of people might not like it but I added some artificial star spikes (I just love star spikes and I think that if you do it carefully, they look very real ) Emil

I love the colour and the details in the central part. I had a go at it too in HOO at the beginning of the year but being in a light polluted area I need much longer integration time (this one is roughlt 30 hours). Mine came out quite blue/cyan Emil

Thank you Martin. I only wish I would have better sky condition and adequate equipment for targets like this. Emil

NGC 5005 (crop out of a larger photo) 310x120sec Luminance (Baader neodymium) 150x120sec for each RGB Total integration time 25 hours and 20 minutes Stacked in AstroPixel Processor and processed in Pixinsight and Photoshop CC 2020 Emil

Thank you very much! 😊 Emil

I only managed to capture 27x300sec Ha last week but with the 11x300sec captured in February and the 22x300sec RGB shot in 2017, I put together this HaLRGB photo of the horsehead nebula and the other jewels around Alnitak. I will probably shoot some more RGB if the weather improves and the moon is not too bright, but I was very curious how it would come out with what I already have and this is it. I think it's not too bad for 5 hours total integration time. What do you think? More details on my astrobin account : https://www.astrobin.com/5wx4nc/C/ Emil

Nice one, I'll do mine when I get home Emil

Thanks 😁

Do you have a link please.

I don't have an automated obsy but every time I go on a trip to dark skies with my eq3, travel setup, I leave the eq6 uncovered to control it from my dark skies location and if I forget to unplug and plug back in the usb cable, I'm in trouble. It happened once and luckily my wife was at home to the rescue 😁 Emil

I'm thinking that it might have something to do with the usb port on the mini pc where the filterwheel is connected. I'm having the problem when the sx is on my eq6 setup. The wheel is connected to an anker powered usb hub and the hub to the mini pc. On the other hand when I put it on my eq3 setup is doesn't cause this problem and connects every time. On the eq3 setup I'm using a similar anker powered usb hub as on the eq6 setup but it's connected to a different usb port on the mini pc.

Hello guys. I'm after some help for the spacing of the CCDT67 on my RC6. I've been looking online for some answers and I found the manual and a topic on cloudy nights about it but I'm wondering if I'm doing it right. The manual says that in order to have a reduction of 0.67x, the spacing needs to be 85mm. I tried that and the stars on the edges and in the corners look horrible. I tried more than 85 with the same results. The camera that I'm using it with is a qhy163m with a 4/3 inch sensor. The guy on cloudy nights was saying that he got the best results with a reduction of 0.75x Using the formula given in the manual, I worked out that the distance from the sensor should be 76.25mm {(305-76.25)/305=0.75 Because the CCDT67 takes up 16mm of the distance and the sensor in 6.5mm deep, I could barely make up the 53.75mm (sx filterwheel, OAG and a few small spacers) needed to get the 0.75x reduction. Is this the right way to do it? Now, with my 4/3 inch (33.87mm) sensor and a reduction of 0.75x, following the manual, I should have a fully illuminated circle of 33mm. Would my stars be better now or should I try to get a 33.87mm fully illuminated circle? Are the star shapes on the edges and corners guided by the fully illuminated circle? The guy on cloudy nights posted a photo shot with an APS-C sensor and 0.75x reduction. Here's the link. https://www.astrobin.com/237518/?nc=user Emil

I have the same problem. Emil