Simon Dunsmore

11 minutes ago, Nigeyboy said:

While I’m certainly no expert, I would think the Mak would be easier to use for that sort of AP. The smaller OTA and longer focal length would be a double bonus! I’m sure someone with hands on knowledge will be along soon!!

I’m hoping to use my 150-PL for basic lunar AP once I get a set of motors for my EQ 3

Thanks for your input. 

Hope you get those motors soon! 

Bot

9 minutes ago, Stu said:

Visual or imaging or both?

Both ideally 

6 minutes ago, Nigeyboy said:

Would it just be AP of the moon and planets then?

Yes, I think so, as I have the 130pds for dso. 

7 minutes ago, Nigeyboy said:

I have not yet dabbled in the dark art of AP apart from a couple of shots done by holding my iPhone up to the eyepiece! The OTA is about 1.2m long and does catch the wind easily. I would think a Mak would be more easy to use for AP plus it would have a longer focal length. 

Hi, yes I had the same thought about the wind. Mmmm🤔 

Thanks for the suggestions. 

I have an Heq5 pro mount, so that would probably be OK. 

How does the 150PL work for astrophotography? 

Any thoughts on the 127?

Hi Folks, 

I'm thinking of adding another scope to the collection. I have a Skywatcher 72ED for wide field, a Skywatcher 130pds for dso and astrophotography but I'd really like to view (and possibly photograph the planets). 

I'm thinking of a used skymax 127 but open to suggestions. Budget around £170. 

Thanks for your help 

Simon 

10 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi

If it will reach focus, try with your field flattener. It may go some way to correct the coma. Or go glassless with -can't tell if your second shot already has- one of these.

HTH

 

Hi Alacant, 

Thanks so much for your assistance. I've ordered one of the glass less adapters and I'll give it a try first. I'm assuming that it just drops into the 2" eyepiece adapter? 

Hopefully, as you say, I won't notice the coma and save myself some cash 😊

Thanks again 

Simon 

1 minute ago, alacant said:

Hi

Try with your field flattener first. It should go some way to correct the coma. Or go glassless with one of these.

HTH

 

Hi, 

Thanks for this. I'm concerned about obtaining focus. I'll definitely try the FF first. Can I ask what the benefit of the glass less item would be, is this needed to obtain focus? 

I have actually saved some pennies for a Skywatcher CC and T adapter, but don't want to spend the money if a coma corrector isn't really needed. 

I've read quite a few threads on here about how people have added comma correctors but can't seem to establish if it's essential for focus or just comma correction. Just how bad is the coma (sorry that was a lot of questions) 

13 minutes ago, fozzybear said:

yep agree with David you will need a  Baader Mpcc  or and OVL or SW equiv sorry it hurts the purse.. . 

Thanks for your help. Would I be able to obtain focus using the t adapter attached to the eyepiece holder. I appreciate the comma corrector is a necessary expense but is it absolutely necessary? Clutching at straws here

Hi Folks, 

I just received my new shiny 130pds yey! 

Up until now I've been using a Skywatcher 72ED and attached my dslr via a field flattener. Question, what is the best way to attach the dslr to the 130pds? I've got two options so far please see pictures. 1. Use the field flattener from the 72ED or 2. T adapter screwed into eyepiece holder. Thanks for your help. 

Cheers 

Simon 

Hi Jon, 

Thanks, I'll take a look. 

Cheers Simon 

Hi Folks, 

Quick question, sorry if this is not in the right section. I figured that the 130pds is a favourite for imagers, so opted to place it here. 

Probably been asked a hundred times before, but can anyone recommend a soft case (as apposed to flight type case) for the 130pds.

I tend to load all my kit onto a festival trolly and pull it to a dark field not too far from home, up until now I've used a small refractor but have a 130pds on order ready for the autumn. The refractor fits in a small padded case on the trolly but I'm going to have to carry the 130 over my shoulder or on my back. 

Thanks for your help. 

All the best 

Simon 

Hi Bamo, 

Thanks for your message. Yes, you're right the powertanks are expensive but the replacement 9amp hr seems to be working better. 

Post some photos when you get a chance. 

Take care, stay safe, and clear skies 

Simon 

9 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi

Well done on the guiding:)

Dithering:

PHD2 log?

APT settings?

Otherwise there are too many variables and we'd be guessing.

Cheers.

Hi, Thanks for your reply. I'll get back to you with the settings. 

8 hours ago, bottletopburly said:

have you enabled server in phd2 and have you chose phd2 not phd in apt guiding settings

Hi, yes phd2 selected. 

9 hours ago, Craney said:

This may sound obvious.....  apologies in advance.....

Have you got the mount  connected  ( or as  the software says "scope connected" )  in APT...... under the GEAR menu drop down"   ??

Hi, and thanks for your reply. Yep, mount connected, guiding worked OK, just dithering seems to be the problem 

Hi Folks, 

Last night was a milestone, it was my second attempt at guiding and it worked!!!!!!! 🎉 

I also attempted my second objective, dithering. Here not all went do well 🤔. I'm using APT, Phd2 with Heq5 pro mount, Skywatcher 72ed and Canon 60d. 

Everything was working just fine, I was running 3min exposures, I waited until it had completed a couple and then headed inside for a cuppa whilst I left it to do its thing. When I got back outside a problem had occurred.  APT stated that after two 3mins shots the dithering had timed out. I reset everything, tried shifting the weight to put it a little off balance (I read this could help) same thing happened again. Everything will run for a while and then the dithering either pauses or times out. 

If any of you folk have any suggestions I'd be grateful. 

Thanks for your help 

Simon 

Hi Vlaiv, 

Thanks for your help. I'm guessing that if the images are over exposed I can amend in the processing stage? 

Hi Folks, 

I hope you're all staying safe and well. 

Loving the clear skies we're having here in Kent right now. So, I've been getting into imaging and just about to start guiding and dithering but before I do, I have a question. 

I've had some success with stacking images of 90 seconds mostly shot at ISO 1600. The question I have is, if I shoot for longer exposures, say 2-3mins, will I need to reduce the ISO and if I do, will this reduce the amount detail? 

I'm using a Skywatcher ED72 on Heq5 pro goto mount, polar aligned with sharpcap and  Canon 60d dslr. 

Also I imaged M61 last night, obviously I'm not going to get a large image, but I have a 130pds on order and was wondering if the focal length would give me much more magnification. 

Thanks for your help 

Simon 

Hi, 

Thanks for your help. Where did you get yours, if you don't mind me asking? 

Hi Folks, 

I'm just wondering if anyone can recommend an electronic focuser for the Skywatcher 72ed?

Thanks for your help 

Simon 

Hi Folks,

Quick question,

I'm in the market for a new scope. I presently image using a DSLR and Skywatcher ED72, love its rich field views but I want to add something with a little more punch. I own the Heq5 pro mount and was thinking about the Skywatcher 130pds but these are like rocking horse poo right now (I've been trying to get hold of one for almost three months). So here is my question to you wonderful people. Is the Bresser Messier NT-130S/650 any good? Has anyone used one or own one? Alternatively, can you suggest an alternative for imaging DSO's in the £200 price bracket?

Looking forward to you thoughts/suggestions.

Kind regards

Simon

1 hour ago, KevS said:

Simon,

That's what I tend to enter, I normally set the quality as "Raw" as you have mentioned. AV and Filter as you have them set. Don't forget to set an antivibration pause on the left hand side. I tend to set the "white balance" to "daylight".

K

Hi, 

Thanks for your reply. Good to hear I'm on the right track. I've read somewhere to set the white balance to auto. Have you tried both? 

As yet I have not actually tried this program out under the stars, just trying to work out some of the bugs before I get that far + it's cloudy!!!! 

Cheers 

Simon 

Hi, 

Thanks, I think I solved it. I hadn't entered data in quality, AV Filter. 

Having said that, what should those be filled as? 

I have quality as Raw, AV: no change (") Filter: no change (") is that correct for DSLR? 

2 minutes ago, spillage said:

are you clicking on "add as new" box so it shows up in the box?

Hi, yes I click on add as new but nothing happens