Simon Dunsmore

Hi John, 

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I sync after each alignment. Good shout about the box, I'll try that 

Hello people, 

If you live in the UK I hope that you're all enjoying the clear skies of late. 

I have a question that I am hoping you good folks may be able to help me with. 

I have recently moved to controling my heq5 using Stellarium. Here is the process I use. 

Manually polar align with polar scope 

Tweak alignment using Sharpcap 

Start Stellarium and Stellarium scope

Using EQMOD Centre on alignment star and sync

The problem 

No matter how many alignment stars I use the slew is always conserably off target. 

Last night I did this again and for ease chose the moon as a target, although the scope was pointing in general the right direction, the moon was not in the eyepiece at all. 

I would appreciate any advice you could give. 

On another side note, anyone ever concerned about dew on their laptop. After last nights session it looked like I had taken it swimming 

Thanks again 

Simon 

Hi Folks, 

Loving this discussion and images, in fact loving them so much that I just tried to order a Skywatcher 130p DS, but alas none to be had in the UK right now

Keep inspiring me 

Stay safe 

Simon 

11 hours ago, Bizibilder said:

Try focussing on something like Venus for a start (it is well placed around dusk as long as you have a view to the W or NW).  As it is so bright you should see something and be able to focus on it (You say you can focus in daylight on a distant object so this should work).  The slew the scope to a bright star and you should be able to see it.  Whack the gain right up for a start and increase the exposure time.  At worst you should be able to see a gray blob!  Then go from there lowering the gain a bit at a time.  Once you have the hang of it you should be able to slew around and find the brighter stars.

Hi, 

Just thought I'd get back to you with a huge thank you. I did as you suggested. Eureka moment! I also used an eyepiece to get as close as could to focus and then switched this out for the camera. 

Next step is to use my new found ability to use Sharpcap for polar alignment. 

That's what I love about this hobby, the breakthroughs. 

If I could I'd buy you a cold one! 

Thanks again 

Simon 

Thanks, I'll give it a go. 

How hard can it be 😊? 

Hi, 

Thanks for your reply. 

Yes, sorry tried increasing and decreasing the exposure in increments. 

Hi People, 

Update. OK so I got everything set up and working in the daytime, with the camera attached to the guidescope and focused on a pilon across the road. 

Night time.... Set up, switched on camera and fired up sharpcap. Did a basic polar alignment... So far so good. 

Can't get anything other than black on the screen. If I shine a torch across the guidescope it goes grey but that's it. 

I tried winding the focus right out and then slowly winding in, nothing. 

I tried uping the gain, again nothing. 

Tried altering contrast, brightness.... Nothing. 

Have to admit, I'm totally baffled. I don't give up easily but this really is frustrating. 

Im sure it's down to something simple, but I don't know what else to try. 

I've tried the camera in the main scope and attempted focusing that way, nothing. 

This must be down to settings? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. 

Bit of a newb to this camera stuff so be gentle 😊

Thanks from a very cold and frustrated 😤 but enthusiastic stargazer

Simon 

Hi Folks, 

Thanks for all your help. We have lift off! 

Will definitely check out those tutorials. 

Thanks 

Simon 

Hi Folks, 

After a day of pulling out what little hair I have left. I thought I'd appeal to the mercy of you life savers 

So I'm trying to set up my heq5 mount to be controlled directly from my laptop. I'm attempting to use carte du ceil as Stellarium just wasn't playing ball. I've installed ASCOM and have had some success but I'm aware that I need EQMOD. The problem is whenever I download EQMOD it downloads as ASCOM. Sorry if this is a silly question but where can I download EQMOD? 

I'd really appreciate it if anyone could help 

Thanks 

Simon 

OK thanks, I'll try it on a clear dry day. Thanks again for your help. 

I wrongly thought it was a matter of just plug and play. 

I'm guessing that the fact that the screen goes light or dark depending on if I cover the lens or not is good sign that the camera is working?

Hi, 

Thanks for your reply. 

The scope is a Skywatcher evoguide 50ed. 

I tried it in the day but still nothing. I'm not really sure what I'm doing with the settings, so I'm probably down to my incompetence. 

Trying to find a clear and step by step guide is not easy. 

Novice problems!! 

Thanks again 

Simon 

On 03/02/2019 at 13:42, johnb said:

Louise

 

At this stage I have not connected the scope etc, the camera will be used for Guiding and maybe moon imaging - I have an SPC900 which works fine in sharpcap so the software is working, however when I use sharpcap and connect to my QHY whilst it clearly connects it seem to do nothing, I would expect to see something in live view when I take the cap off and let natural light hit the sensor

 

Regards

John B

Hi John, 

Just found this thread and wondered if you solved the problem. I'm having exactly the same issue. I have Windows 10, installed drivers and Sharpcap. I get either a dark, light or flickering screen. 

Appreciate your help 

Kind regards 

Simon 

Hi 

Thanks for your quick reply. 

I'm using a Skywatcher evoguide 50ed. Should I be able to see anything with just the camera and no guide scope? I'll try your suggestion once the rain stops!! 

Hi Folks, 

I'm new to this ccd camera guidescope dark magic, so please be gentle and forgive me my ignorance! 

So I purchased myself a used QHY5-II MONO camera for guiding. I installed the drivers and Sharpcap. I plugged the camera into my laptop, so far so good! 

The screen shows that the camera is connected and if I point it at a light source the screen lightens, but no image. I attached it to a guide scope and tried altering the focus, still nothing. 

I'm sure it is something simple but just can't figure out what to try next. 

Really would appreciate the help of anyone out there who has a similar experience or knows how to assist. 

Thanks again 

Simon 

On 04/09/2011 at 20:56, BertUK said:

the 200p is very comfortable with dso,s,i had mine on an EQ5 with synscan goto,a cooling fan at the primary,a philips spc900 astro modded cam and did some nice dso shots,i was managing roughly 120 second exposures without any trailing or movement,ive since mounted my scope on a steel pier and can get maybe another 30 or 40 seconds exposure time then the need for guiding kicks in.

Hi, 

I know that I'm late to the party with this, but just came across this thread.  And I'm interested to read your comments

I have a lovely 200pds and after saving for a long time just purchased a Heq5 (used) which I collect this weekend but since doing so I've read so many posts that say the scope is just too heavy and will not work on this mount.

Thanks 

Simon 

5 minutes ago, Spaced Out said:

 

 

Very little difference apart from focal length, I actually like the 200 PDS. My original plan was to buy 2nd hand HEQ5 and 130 PDS to get started but then a HEQ5 and 200 PDS came up near me and I couldn't resist. I had planned to just sell the 200 PDS but ended up keeping it while I learnt with the 130 PDS.

Some pics with DSLR and both telescopes here, not the best because I am learning, rubbish at processing and I didn't use any calibration frames but it'll give you some idea.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132427272@N04/albums/72157663479649980/with/44093130860/

 

Hi, 

Wow! Love these. 

So these were taken with a DSLR through a 200pds on a Heq5? 

Maybe ill give it a whirl! 

4 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

I think you're concerning yourself with the wrong numbers. It's an error to think that a mount's main concern is to carry the required weight. Yes, it does have to do that but what it must also do is deliver a tracking accuracy which supports the pixel scale of the setup.  If you are imaging at 2.0 arcseconds per pixel the mount, roughly speaking, must deliver an accuracy of about twice that - so 1 arcsecond RMS. This is certainly going to be the figure under guiding since the Skywatcher mounts, good as they are, have periodic errors twenty or thirty times that, unguided.

So... I think your 200PDS/Canon will be working at 0.89"PP. This is a realistic scale on nights of exceptional seeing and with a mount which can deliver an RMS under guiding of 0.45 arcseconds or better. This guiding figure is at the absolute limit of what's normally possible with your mount and the demands on the seeing are very unlikely to be met in the UK. This means you would do just as well, or better, with a considerably shorter focal length. Essentially you are chasing the impossible. You would probably catch just as much detail, and have a vastly increased field of view, if you went for a far shorter focal length. Aperture fever belongs in visual observing. It is a snare and a delusion in imaging.

Olly

Thanks Olly fit your explanation, much appreciated. I also have a 72ed whi ch which is a lovely little scope for wide field. I was looking for something with a little more focal length which is why I was leaning towards the 130. If you have any suggestions that may be more appropriate, I'd welcome your thoughts.

I just need to move the 200pds.

20 minutes ago, Spaced Out said:

I use both 130 PDS and 200 PDS on a HEQ5. I have a permanent pier which is outdoors (not inside the walls of an obs) and I only use the 200PDS on calm nights because it is like a big sail in the wind. Having said that the 200PDS works fine on my HEQ5 and with guiding I get 10 minute subs no probs. The 130 PDS is perhaps better matched to a HEQ5 and slightly less prone to getting blown about by the wind too.

Thanks for your reply. 

As I mentioned, I will try the 200pds until I can sell it. Do you find much difference when imaging with the two with regards to image quality? 

Hi Folks, 

Thanks for all your replies. I figured that go with the 130PDs would be the general opinion. 

I if that's the way to go, I'll use my 200pds until I can sell it and then go for the 130. 

I've got it listed at £195 does this sound about right? 

Thanks again 

Simon 

Hi Folks, 

It's been quite a journey, plenty of mistakes made along the way. Finally I've almost assembled a rig that I'm happy with. 

I started with a Skywatcher 130p on an EQ3/2 mount, sold the mount when it just wasn't cutting it. 

Next I purchased a used eq5 pro goto. Much better! This is where I goofed, I developed  a fatal case of aperture fever sold the 130p and purchased a 200PDs. I then started down the road of astrophotography, so far so good. Until I realised the EQ5 pro wasn't man enough to take the 200PDs. This whole process took 8 years! 

Just recently after much saving and reading a hundred different articles I found a still boxed and unused second hand Heq5 pro goto mount (which I collect next weekend)  I have since read that the 200PDs is too heavy for astrophotography on the Heq5. 

Here's the question, is the 200pds really too heavy? I have thought about selling this, it's in perfect condition and boxed but no one seems too interested, do I keep trying to sell it and buy a 130PDs or just ignore the negative reports and go for it with the 200PDs? 

BTW I'm imaging DSO using a Canon 60D and qhy5l-ii guide camera 

Thanks from a confused but enthusiastic star glazer. 

PS I read somewhere that even the neq6 isn't man enough for the 200PDs...really??? 

Hi Folks, 

One more question. I see you can buy Adobe Elements and Premier on eBay for around £10 or Elements 6 for the same price. Excuse my ignorance, but will this software be suitable? 

Thanks 

Simon 

Wow! Thanks for all the replies, that really opened up a lively debate, loads to think about and research further. 

Love this forum! 

Hi Folks 

Another question to you wise astrophotographers! 

When it comes to editing your astro pics, what software do you use? If Photoshop is your weapon of choice, did you buy the whole package or is there a cheaper option? 

Better still, is there a free option? 

Looking forward to your responses

Thanks 

Simon 

Thanks Louise, 

I have an Heq5 pro goto mount. 

That all makes sense, thanks, and as long as the guidescope has a rigid fixing to the main scope all should be fine?? 

I have to admit, I am leaning towards the skywatcher Ed. 

Thanks again 

Simon 

OK, thanks! 

47 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Ok, that sounds good. It can be better to have rigid mounting to ensure there's no flex between the guide scope and imaging scope. It doesn't matter from a guiding point of view whether or not the two scopes are aligned. It may be a problem if you want to use the guide scope as an e-finder. However, using plate solving via the imaging scope is becoming a more popular way of getting on target.

Louise

So this is the set up right now, the scope looks pretty dwarfed by the Telrad I know! 

Still unclear, are you saying the finderscope bracket is a not a good idea? Also, 50mm or 60mm, pretty confused about the best guidescope to suit the GHY camera (that I already owned). This has an adapter with it for fitting to 1.25 opening, will I need another adapter as well???? 

Sorry for all the questions 

Simon