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Adam J

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Everything posted by Adam J

  1. Adam J
    The only thing that I am not understanding about that statement is that your image looks very blue for an RGB image, when I have seen this before OIII has always been green / teal not electric blue. Mine is of course a bi-color narrow band image and hence the OIII is assigned to blue. But then you do have star color to I was assuming it was OIII + Ha + RGB .
  2. Adam J
    Here is my effort with a 1000D, it did not seem fair to compare to a unmodified DSLR. In terms of comparison you got more detail but less depth, though i have been way more aggressive in processing. I would expect more detail though given the longer focal length (mine is cropped allot) and the mono should improve resolution also.
  3. Adam J
    Not sure I would be so accommodating. Using your image is one thing placing their own water mark onto it is another.
  4. Adam J
    I dug a hole about 75cm x 75cm x 60cm (I hit the local water table at only 60cm below surface level). I can grantee you that the pier is not going to go anywhere with that sized hole. The pier itself i was made using a square form consisting of four pieces of ply wood screwed together and is 1m x 25cm x 25cm with 3 x reinforcement bars running through it and into the base. Its as solid as a rock and possibly overkill.
  5. Adam J
    Yes as its a 0.9 reducer it does just that. The SW CC also suffers from internal reflections which have been known to cause halos around stars. Finally it does produce a little chromatic aberration if you dont use a proper IR/UV blocked filter. The MPCCMKIII is a better corrector.
  6. Adam J
    What coma corrector are you using some of the cheaper ones will give chromatic aberration. Also are you using a UV/IR block ?
  7. Adam J
    I had a go hope that you dont mind.
  8. Adam J
    Attempted to increase the background to make it appear less clipped but i really think that this is all that the data has to give now. Sometimes converting to jpg had reduce the image depth and make it appear clipped when its not in the 16 bit image. At the end of the day I am working with a DSLR from a yellow zone so I am not displeased with this result.
  9. Adam J
    When you said 10c I am assuming that you ment -10c...
  10. Adam J
    Thought i would share this here too. Slight tweak from version in the imaging section. 30x300, iso800, 550D, 130pds.
  11. Adam J
    Thats a nice image i
  12. Adam J
    You will have to post a shot.
  13. Adam J
    Doughnuts on a Newtonian are normally poor focus. I do note that you have some tilt in your image so you may find that while some stars are in focus in some areas of the image the are not in other areas. The tilt is basically that the top of the image you posted is in focus but the bottom of the image is not in focus. You may want to check your focuser is orthogonal to the optical axis by racking the focus tube in and out and seeing if your collimation remains consistent.
  14. Adam J
    I take it this is with the DSLR what is the state of play with the QHY163m ???? Its a nice image though.
  15. Adam J
    Like someone else said just make sure you glue a stop on to the end of the tube to stop it falling out if you move it out too far.
  16. Adam J
    You can shift the primary up the tube on its adjustment screws, it pushes out the focus tube a little and prevents it getting so badly in the way.
  17. Adam J
    Yes it would but you would find that the collimation would change as you move the focuser in and out. So in my case with a laser colimator the position of the reflected spot would change as I racked the focuser in and out, if its parallel then it would remain in the same place irrespective of focuser position.
  18. Adam J
    I am assuming that you have looked to ensure that the focuser itself is square with the optical axis?
  19. Adam J
    I don't have any problem with focus slipping without needing to use the locking screw and I have a 550D inside a cool box hanging off mine 1.25kg total so if you really cant adjust the tension to prevent it from slipping you may have a duff focuser...
  20. Adam J
    I think for a mini obsy the hinged design is in fact optimal especially if using German hinges as Skipper Billy used. Once you are getting higher walls and heavier roof panels then you need to be using a roll off roof design.
  21. Adam J
    I have been wanting to better understand this as I self modified my DSLR removing both filters to make it full spectrum. I have a clip filter after the coma corrector. I have been working on the assumption that if I have removed glass (overall) from between the CC and the sensor that this would result in the optimal spacing from CC to sensor reducing? As such I am considering moving my CC closer to the sensor using the spring loaded adjustment screws on my 550D DSLR. I have also been getting an effect that appears like squashed stars radially around the centre of the image, kind of the opposite to coma appearing squashed as opposed to stretched radially. I am lead to believe this is as a result of the CC being too far from the sensor and hence over compensating for the coma and going past round stars to stars that are squished in the opposite plane. This is again in line with my understanding that removing the filters will have reduced the effective focal length requiring that the distance to the sensor be reduced. Any opinions on this?
  22. Adam J
    Most people on here use the Baader and are very happy with it so it works well with the 130PDS. Alacant: you are imaging at F4 so you may get different results compared to the 130PDS users at F5.
  23. Adam J
    The elements the wrong way? Thats hard to imagine was it a MK1 or a MK3?
  24. Adam J
    The point was not really to do with the KAF8300, more to do with the QSI having a price point that places it along side larger format sensors. I was merely pointing out to the OP that if you are willing to spend that kind of money then there are other options also worthy of consideration.
  25. Adam J
    Huum I would not pay that for filters, I would probably get the 3.5nm Baader filters.... and ill stand by it, if your going to spend over 3k on a camera I would not be buying one with a KAF8300 in it.
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