wornish

I think your tif file might not be in 16 bit format.

If you saved it from Pixinsight then make sure you select the correct format when saving,  it gives you lots of options.

Only 16 bit works in Starnet.

4 hours ago, Tenor Viol said:

Although I've never been a PC type 'geek' i.e. I don't play around in the bowels of an OS or write stuff in C# or Python or use Linux  etc. I'm not put off 'having a go' as my day job is designing IT systems and once upon a time I wrote mainframe assembler programs...

I gave up on PCs about 3 years ago when I saw my rag with endless problems with W10 (never-ending updates to it and any application that used it, bugs, endless system crashes) and now use a MacBook Pro. I don't really want to have multiple laptops when I get my rig under computer control in due course. Given that the UK is damp and prone to heavy dew fall I don't fancy getting my Mac wet outside. 

I am definitely intrigued by the idea of using either a R Pi or mini-PC which can be attached to the mount and which can be left to get on with things and which you can link to from the Mac or iPad safely sat in the conservatory or similar. 

The question I have as someone who has never used Linux is how friendly is say R Pi running Astroberry? I know I have an overhead coming up in getting to grips with the applications like Kstars (and I could start that now by downloading it to the Mac). I don't particularly want to spend time learning to input Linux console commands... Astroberry is a cheaper option than AstroMate which as far as I can tell is just a R Pi that someone has set-up and configured with the same set of apps. ASIair seem to be an issue as it is tightly defined to their kit and initially I will be using Nikon and Canon cameras for imaging, for example. 

I'm tempted to get a 4Gb R Pi and apply the Astroberry application. For those who've used them, is the standard plastic case OK or should I be looking at the metal heatsink ones?

Any pointers to either more threads here on SGL or forums/sites to help out R Pi novices?

The other route would be some sort of mini-PC. Big advantage is you just shove all the PC software on it. Down side is it's Windows, but on the plus you can get plenty of SSD storage in the box. More expensive route than R Pi.   

If you have a Mac then download KStars for Mac and have play to get a feel for it and decide if you want go forward.

https://edu.kde.org/kstars/#download

KStars running on MacOS , Windows or Linux has basically the same user interface and behaves the same on each.

One very important thing to check before committing is that all your devices are supported.  KStars can control your mount, cameras, focuser, guiding, plate solving etc using INDI drivers .  These do the same thing that ASCOM drivers do on a Windows system. So have a quick check here to find out what's supported.  Most equipment is supported.

https://indilib.org/devices.html

Then when it comes to getting a RPi. go for the RPi4. with 4GB memory.The standard RPi4 case really is not up to the job as the RPI4 can get hot under heavy load and then it automatically reduces the internal clock speed to force it to run cooler, which can be a pain. So metal cases are better, But most of the metal cases for the RPi4 do seriously impact its WiFi connectabilty, the most popular one (which I use). it the FLIRC case which does have internal heatsinks but less impact on the WiFi.

The best and easiest way to get all the apps you need preloaded on the Raspbian Operating system is to use Astroberry.  Its FREE, very well supported and does everything something like Stellarmate  offers but without the cost.  Astroberry also comes with ALL the INDI drivers pre installed.

You can find all about it here:

https://www.astroberry.io

If you read some of my earlier posts on this thread they provide links to get more info.

One step I would recommend is getting a USB3 SSD (Flash drive) it makes a huge difference  to performance and is way faster than running everything of the SD Card memory.

Hope this helps

I use it on my 2017 iMac running macOS Mojave 10.14.6.

If you follow the install instructions contained in the download it runs in a terminal window and it works fine.   I find it easiest to simply copy the image file I want to process into the same directory that Starnet is installed in and run it from there.   Note: it will only work on 16 bit tif files no other format.

It won't work on some older Macs due to the Intel chips they have not being able to run certain instructions.

Its normal they are big! 

Once I have finished the post processing I tend to delete all the intermediate files and just keep a high quality JPG of the final image.  I do keep all the original raw data files as well.

I you keep all the intermediate files you really do eat up huge amounts of storage.

Superb set.

It arrived today.  Will have a look at the moon tonight 😀

As expected rain is now forecast for later this week!

Update : First image with new scope.

3 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Interesting about the shielding of the wifi, I ended up using a 30M Ethernrt cable last night to make my typing and the screen updates more responsive. Definitely worth thinking about. Thanks for the links.

Mine is actually the Flirc once which was the best of the aluminium ones though but still I would not want really any impact if it can be avoided.. 

Steve

I also use the FLIRC case. It does have a slight impact on the WiFi but is the best I can find of of the all metal ones most of which severely impact WiFi.

Wonder when there will be an INDI driver available fo the CEM70?

Or will an existing driver work?

very nice indeed.

I have just ordered my first reflector a Celestron Edge HD925. can't wait to give it a go.

Coloured stars and dust !!

I actually thought yesterday that they were all too similar but held off saying it.  The colour I managed to force out was simply the very slight difference between the three sessions.

Glad you have found the solution.  

1 hour ago, Northernlight said:

In the past i've been one of his most vocal critics for this very reason, and to be fair to Mark i've been unfairly harsh with some of my comments.  I think Mark is just extremely disorganised and has just made some bad decisions along the way, such as the original choice of controller before finally adopting Sitech Controllers. Why he didn't just adopt the tried and tested SiTech controllers from the start is beyond me.

I think he has lost of a lot of trust and has an awful lot of work to do to restore it, but hopefully he will get past it and we will see a new mount on the market to bring more competition to the established players which ultimately helps us all in the long run.

 

 

1 hour ago, Northernlight said:

 

 

I did consider this mount as the specs were intriguing but the saga just goes on and on and on!

The never ending series of excuses (which is what they are) show that this is not a viable business going forward. 

In the end the developer maybe a good engineer but he is certainly not a competitor in todays market for mounts.

Sorry to be harsh but "stop flogging a dead donkey" as the saying goes. 

Perhaps it's time to face reality?

Have you looked at the PHD2 Guiding YouTube video?  I posted the link in my earlier post on this thread.

Sounds like your settings are not quite right.

Linux is just different to Windows I agree.  It takes a while to re-teach your muscle memory:}  but perseverance pays off.

You can open multiple VNC sessions to see your RPI from separate screens but it does put a significant load on the WiFi connection so be careful.

No success,  I can squeeze a bit of colour out of the nebula but nothing from the stars themselves.

I think you are right in saying more data needed.

If you can you share your new stack for each channel I will have a go using APP to see if I can get more colour out.  

I think you are right. Getting the detail at the core of the nebula itself at the same time as getting the dust clouds to stand out is a real processing challenge.  There are quite a few YouTube videos of people trying different techniques.  

You have multiple satelite trails in the Red and also two in the Green.  These don't help when it comes to increasing the colour saturation in the Nebula.

Yes they are all alternative way to achieve the same thing.  As long as you can see Polaris then Sharpcap is the quickest and easiest way to get very good Polar Alignment, you also don't need to buy any extra hardware.  If you can't see Polaris then Polemaster, I believe, can still do polar alignment.  Many other software packages also can do it using drift alignment etc but that takes at lest 15 - 20 min.  Basically take your pick and use what works for you. 

11 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

That’s my point, it was released a week ago... 👍

https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/how-to/boot-raspberry-pi-4-usb

But if you read your link you will see its still in BETA so not officially released yet.  Which is exactly what I said 🙂

I don't want to use Beta software so will wait a while.

12 hours ago, Stuart1971 said:

The RPi4 doesn't boot off USB3 yet but there is quite a simple mod that's available that allows the system to run completely off the SSD.

 

 

Quote

I think you need to reword your post, as you have contradicted yourself by saying the rpi4 DOES NOT boot from USB 3 yet, and then saying that the rpi4 can run completly off an SSD drive, which is connected to USB 3.... 🤔🤔

The rpi4 CAN now boot from USB 3 with the firmware update in the link you sent....

 My post is correct.  The RPi4 doesn't BOOT off USB3 yet but it can then RUN off USB3 once the initial boot sequence is complete.  I don't see any contradiction in that statement.  

I know this is about to change when, the USB3 boot code currently in Beta, is released.

I think one of these should work.  This connects your PC to the handset. I assume you already have the cable to connect handset to mount.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-usb-to-serial-adapter-for-sky-watcher-handsets-5m.html

Thats a similar improvement to what I achieved.  It makes the RPi4 really perform much quicker in most tasks. It feels faster than my laptop!

Same as MarkAR if the profile is not in use then simply hit the minus sign. Probably best to make sure EKOS is not actually connected to any while you do the deletion.

Here is a useful tutorial that shows you how to use PHD2 with EKOS.