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blinky

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Posts posted by blinky

  1. 5 hours ago, symmetal said:

    Hi blinky,

     In your calculations you haven't used consistant units. Read noise is in electrons (e-) while your sky background is in ADUs (16 bit).

    To convert read noise to ADU (12 bit for ASI1600) divide read noise by the gain in e- per ADU. So read noise in 12 bit ADUs:    2.25 / 2 = 1.125

    Multiply this figure by 20 :    1.125 * 20 = 22.5

    Add the offset which is in12 bit ADUs :    22.5 + 12 = 34.5

    Convert 12 bit ADUs to 16 bit ADUs by multiplying by 2 ^ 4 = 16 :     34.5 * 16 = 552

    So your sky backbround ADU is 552 to achieve a  20 * Read Noise figure. Your current ADU figure of 368 is lower so you need to increase the exposure duration to reach 552.

    In this thread there is some useful info, and at the end I included an excel spreadsheet to calculate the sky background ADUs for various read noise swamping calculations.

    The offsets recommended by Zwo are too low and do cause black clipping.

    I would just start at unity gain for everything until you get more familiar with the camera as any benefits/disadvantages with different gain settings can be quite small and taking many subs will be your best way of getting the best image. I use gain 139, offset 56 (to avoid black clipping) for everything. Another advantage of just using one gain setting is less sets of darks needed. :smile:

    Alan

    Thanks for that, I’m still confused though, how come the excel spreadsheet shows 1283 for your sky background at gain 76?

  2. 1 minute ago, geordie85 said:

    I prefer the first one. The 2nd seems to be clipped, but that may just be my phone screen

    I always find setting the background to be the hardest thing to get right!  On my screen it looks OK but im not sure which version I prefer

  3. Never had time to get the other narrow bands so this will do for now!  68X2min subs from my F4 Newt and ASI1600 - pleased to see the outer core was starting to come through in 2 min subs, not sure if I should have had more or went for longer to bring them out?

    M27-Ha.jpg

    • Like 3
  4. Hi,

    Im trying to figure out what settings to use for RGB and Narrowband on my ASI1600 - there are a few interesting but confusing posts on CloudyNights about this but I cant figure out what to do!  I have a red filter, offset 12, gain 75 image, exposed for 60 seconds. The scope was an 8" F4 Newt and my skies are pretty good, I can just about see the milky way so not fantastic but Im about 5 miles outside Edinburgh in a smallish village.  So.….I should be aiming for about 20x the read noise for the sky background yeah?  So, the read noise, when looking at the graph in the manual, for gain 75 looks to be about 2.25, so multiply that by 20 and you get 45.  So is 45 the magic number I should be aiming for in the Median of the image stats in SGPro?  If so then Im way overexposing as my median is 368.  

    The other thing though is offset, I think its too low in this image as when looking in Pixinsight the histogram looks black clipped....

    And finally, am  I best just to image at gain 75, or do people use different gain depending on filter?  I was using gain 300 for the Ha filter the other night and going with 2min subs.

    So:
    Should I drop my exposure time down lower till I get to 45 for the background?

    Should I increase the offset?

    Should I stick with Gain 75 for all filters or increase it for narrowband?

    1600-Gain-RN-DR-FW-vs-gain1.jpg

    Red.JPG

    ngc7662_60sec_1x1_r_Red_offset_12_gain_75.fit

  5. Hi,

     

    Can somebody confirm the figures in the screenshot are correct for an ZWO ASI1600 Mono?  I want the gain set to 300 here as I want SGPro to use that gain for focus runs - I will set the gain/offset in each sequence, but why does the settings screen shown not have a section for Offset?

    SGPSettings.JPG

  6. One thing you can do is get a magnifying glass and look at the tops of the components,usually a blown transistor etc will be a lot more obvious through a magnifying glass. Look for a little crater in the top! Also if it were me I would contact modern astro and enquire about a new board. I bought one for me heq5 and it was just over £100, I assume an eq6 would be cheaper.

  7. Apparently usb 3 also has usb 2 cables or something so plugging usb 2 stuff in means you still get usb 3 speeds from devices that support that speed and usb 2 speed if the device connected only supports usb 2. So go for whatever suits best as it should not make a difference.

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