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Everything posted by spaceman_spiff
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Very nice Hawksmoor! This may be an effect of the image but the light box looks a little dimmer near the edges than in the centre. I have been thinking of improving my flats and may make a light box of my own soon. I used to take my flats from a cloudy daytime sky, but the clouds were just not uniform enough! Damn british weather - even when I want the clouds, they ruin my pictures! Nowadays I use a laptop monitor screen. Dan.
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From the album: Photos from Bury
The Crescent nebula. Processed using DSS. Hardware details: Camera: Canon 600D. Telescope: SW Evostar 120 with Baader UHC-S filter. Mount: AZ-EQ6 guided using a ST80 synguider. Image details: Lights: 25 x 3min at ISO 800, Darks: 50 x 3min 0 sec at ISO 800 (from dark library), Lights and darks separated by 30 sec intervals. Flats: 50 x 1/50s at ISO 800, Bias: 50 x 1/4000 at ISO 100. Date of capture 05/07/2016. Atmospheric transparency was good, some faint clouds appeared but did not affect the frames significantly. Auto guiding was very stable. I increased the saturation by 30% and manually aligned the colour channel histograms. I stretched the red, green and blue channels by about the same amount to try and show the subtle difference in colour. The 600D is astro modded.© D Elijah
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From the album: Photos from Bury
The Wizard nebula NGC 6888. Processed using DSS. Hardware details: Camera: Canon 600D. Telescope: SW Evostar 120 with Baader UHC-S filter. Mount: AZ-EQ6 guided using a ST80 synguider. Image details: Lights: 30 x 3min at ISO 800, Darks: 50 x 3min 0 sec at ISO 800 (from dark library), Lights and darks separated by 30 sec intervals. Flats: 50 x 1/50s at ISO 800, Bias: 50 x 1/4000 at ISO 100. Date of capture 05/07/2016. Atmospheric transparency was good. Auto guiding was very stable. I increased the saturation by 30% and manually aligned the colour channel histograms. I stretched the red colour histogram slightly more than the green or blue to increase its contrast. The 600D is astro modded.© D Elijah
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I have just upgraded my old barlow to a 2x Tele view 1.25 inch. I am interested to see how it performs.
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Cygnus star cloud 1st attempt
spaceman_spiff commented on spaceman_spiff's gallery image in Member's Album
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Thanks! I had trouble with colour processing, I went back later and corrected it (see the ether version in the album). M51 is a real struggle from my location. I spent hours of exposure time on it but LP makes the connection between the two galactic nuclei very hard to image. Let me know how you get on! Dan.
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Yes, that's correct, normally the camera movie modes (that record onto the memory card) are down-sampled and are therefore not useful for planetary imaging. If you hook up the DSLR to a laptop running Backyard EOS it will directly record from the live view data (cropped at 5x). Some very impressive planetary images have been taken this way. I am not sure is you can record 5x live view onto the memory card, I would think they the live view is purely for looking at a scene rather than recording from. I guess it could be annoying that laptop is needed to do this but if you had a webcam, the laptop would also be necessary. Have a look at the backyard EOS help vid: www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3gkw8bx7Aw (skip to 1:35:40 for planetary) HTH Dan.
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Cool, with an 8" you should get some very nice results. You may need a 2x Barlow to get a better image scale. The 750D is a great piece of kit, you can easily do decent planetary imaging with it. There are a few things to sort first though... - Do NOT try to image with 1080p (HD) or 720p video, the camera makes the frames from the full sensor but then down samples the pixels. When you zoom in on the planet it will look very blocky. I think this is why people say DSLRs are not good for planetary. - There is an easy trick to get the best quality out of the DSLR (as good as webcam). Install a program like backyard EOS (or something similar). It has a planetary imaging mode. In this mode it will record movies onto the computer from the camera live view. To get the best resolution use 5x zoom (do not use any other zoom), for details explaining why go to the backyard EOS help video. I should mention that this works for my cameras (550D and 600D) so it should work for yours). - once you have recorded a video of the planet (up to 10 mins of video should be enough) process it in RegiStax, see the primer video on youtube to get you started. Once you have got the best image scale and pixel resolution, the result then depends on the british weather! Hope that helps! Dan.
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Thanks for the nice comment , I try to write down all the settings that went into the photo for my own reference. If I change something, I can always compare it with photos posted here. What DSLR and scope have you got? If the DSLR has live view, it will double as a planetary camera as well as a DSO camera. Clear skies, Dan.
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From the album: Photos from Bury
This is my first attempt at lucky planetary imaging. Date of image 18/06/2016 Equipment: SW Skymax 150 (f12) with a GSO 2x Barlow lens. The telescope was mounted on an EQ5 pro. Camera: Canon 55D in 640x480 movie crop mode set at 1/60s exposure ISO400, the frame rate was 60fps. The total movie duration was about 5 minutes (Jupiter then set behind some trees). Stacking the frames was done with RegiStax 6. Some first comments: The telescope was still cooling down so there was some turbulent air around the scope during imaging. This type of image makes a welcome change to DOS imaging because it can be done during breaks in the cloud and no autoguiding is required. Seeing was OK but could be better. I really wanted to go for Saturn, Mars and the Moon but they were all well below my neighbors houses so I will consider driving to somewhere with a clearer southern horizon. More pics to come soon!© D Elijah
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Strangely, I am coming from the opposite direction! I have only really done DSOs but I just bought an old EOS 550D for planetary work (it has a 1:1 pixel movie crop mode). Hopefully when it is attached to my Skymax 150 + 2x Barlow I should get a nice result. DSO work is great fun but I find it is quite a hand off experience. I set the guiding, start the exposures and retreat indoors. I now want to use that time setting up a planetary cam.
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I agree, the astro modded 600D picks up so much more H alpha in M27 than my old Nikon. The Canon also has far less dark noise and a flatter field. I can't wait for another clear night! I want to continue my efforts with the crescent nebular to see how much detail I can get (I only got 2 light frames before dawn twilight). Dan
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From the album: Photos from Bury
The Dumbbell nebula (M27). Processed using DSS. Hardware details: Camera: Canon 600D. Telescope: SW Evostar 120 with Baader UHC-S filter. Mount: AZ-EQ6 guided using a ST80 synguider. Image details: Lights: 40 x 3min at ISO 800, Darks: 20 x 3min 0 sec at ISO 800 (from dark library), Lights and darks separated by 30 sec intervals. Flats: 50 x 1/50s at ISO 800, Bias: 50 x 1/4000 at ISO 100 Date of capture 05/06/2016. Atmospheric transparency was good. Auto guiding was stable. I increased the saturation by 25% and manually aligned the colour channel histograms. I stretched the red colour histogram more than the green or blue to increase its contrast. The 600D is astro modded so does pick up H alpha in the red so the result is far better than the old D200. 2x drizzling was done on this stack.© D Elijah
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From the album: Photos from Bury
The Crescent nebula. Processed using DSS. Hardware details: Camera: Canon 600D. Telescope: SW Evostar 120 with Baader UHC-S filter. Mount: AZ-EQ6 guided using a ST80 synguider. Image details: Lights: 2 x 3min at ISO 800, Darks: 20 x 3min 20sec at ISO 800 (from dark library), Lights and darks separated by 30 sec intervals. Flats: 40 x 1/40s at ISO 800, Bias: 30 x 1/8000 at ISO 100 Date of capture 05/06/2016. Atmospheric transparency was good (I only had a few minutes before morning twilight). Auto guiding was stable. I increased the saturation by 25% and manually aligned the colour channel histograms. I stretched the red colour histogram more than the green or blue to increase its contrast. The 600D is astro modded so does pick up H alpha in the red so the result is far better than the old D200. I need more lights. Also the 600D had much less dark noise that the Nikon, more of the field is usable now. No drizzling was done on this stack.© D Elijah
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I have just ordered an astro-modded Canon 600D from Cheap astrophotography to replace my knackered Nikon D200. Can't wait to see how it performs!