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About Dinosour23

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  1. Here is my observation. For non professional astronomy.... Binoculars for star clusters (best 10-15x wide angle), small ED refractor for planets and moon. If I had to pick one, 10x50 or 11x70 binoculars. But in 2016 in the era of the chinese empire, an 80mm ED glass scope shouldn't be more than 300 euro used(it used to be 2000 euro), so you might start with binoculars and set some tenners aside slowly for the ED scope or small Mak.
  2. I have an observation to share regarding zoom eps They are prone to being dusty beyond use. The moving parts are never sealed and I had 2 good zooms (wo and orion) dust up so bad that you could see it in focus.
  3. Hmmm I do have a "ND96-0.9 13% Transmission" in my eyepiece case, is this enough ?
  4. Excellent ! Very helpful posts.. So right now my shopping list... 1. used lunt wedge 1.25" 2. used Baader SCF 1.25" 3. rotating variable polarizer on eyepiece Far far into the future with a fully grown business: DAYSTAR QUARK I could sell my Seymour filter to pay for the Baader
  5. Hmmm, question.... Using the wedge, what guarantees that the multicoat on the main objective doesn't degrade away due to heat ? Do they ask you to only observe in early morning or pre dusk ? (summer days)
  6. Nice ! Regarding the extra filtration I was looking at this: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/baader-solar-continuum-filter.html What is the purpose of this item ? More accurately is it worthwhile.
  7. Thanks Moonshane and Davey. I am looking at the Chromosphere, it appears to be way over budget, I wish they made it cheaper, but I guess it would not serve their business model very well. Moonshane, will I need additional filtration for the best use out of that wedge ? Thanks for prompt replies, best discussion place ever
  8. Hello friends ! I wanted to inquire about the potential performance of small refractors as solar detail scopes Currently I use a "Seymour" glass filter on top of a 90mm doublet refractor, and all I can see is a dark orange disc with not much detail. It's really no reason to go outside, if you know what I mean... I can stack 5 X-Rays of my feet and get the same performance No, just kidding, do NOT try that. Was just making a point. My Newb question of the day is, can I do better with some specialized gear ? I heard that people use a "wedge" which contains a sun filter already in it, and then add a sort of narrowband "solar" 1.25" filter to go with it. Is this kind of set up "worlds away" from what I am using right now ? Because I don't want to go anywhere near Ha Solar Scope money and find out that the solar disc is just a "little less orange", you know what I'm saying ? Anyway, if this is indeed the only way to observe the sun with detail with a non Ha refractor, which parts should I be looking for exactly ? Is there a future for my 70$ Seymour filter in this endeavor ? Thanks for any tip !!
  9. 10x50 first... 7x50 later, nothing wrong with buying a few pairs over time, they are different .. But every bino observer should have a nice 10x. My fav combo when I am driving to a site is a 10x50 and a wide 7x35. 7x50.. It is useful but at 7x I better have a nice field and in modern ones you will not find anything worthwhile. I think the astro equivalent of a 7x50 is a 11x70. 7x50 is a night only binocular, and dark site only. If you are already taking the time to go to a dark site with a large exit pupil then grab a 10x70... 7x50 was never "made" with astro in mind, they are all sold as Mariners for use on boats out in the sea, even by companies with Astro product lines
  10. Ahhh beautiful images if you ask me !! Thanks for postings fellas ! Thank you carol and moushon ! That is good info
  11. I used these for a while, they are as sharp as anything out there but I couldn't get on with the huge eyepieces. You're OK with eye positioning ? Lucky [removed word], I really wanted to love them ! Such a wonderful build !
  12. Thanks very much for the great responses ! The HeQ I am after is modded for belts and grease so may be good for GOTO tracker only (I assume that by not having a guidance system I am relying on the GOto synscan computer and polar centring and nothing else correct ?) Can I see examples please of a non guided shot maybe 30x30s ? Could you put a link ?
  13. Hey ! I am sure something like this has been asked before but let me specify my situation I currently have a William Optics Megrez 90 doublet which is really nice, f/5.8. I kinda gave up on it visually speaking... It is just not large enough to look through from the suburbs. I always find the binoculars "similar" when talking about DSO's. I thought I'd give this scope a new productive life on a HEQ-5, first reason is to have GOTO controls and second reason to capture some photographs. I actually just thought about it today when someone I know showed interest in selling his used HEQ-5 so basically this thread is finding an excuse to buy it and not be dragged down the money pit AP is, if it's possible. I have no intentions sending any pictures to any magazine for publications nor I have the time to edit a thousand subs, those who produce hubble like pictures on this forum are already too good to compete with... That means no guiding, no 50 car batteries,no dew heaters, no CCD chips. I will have the 90mm apo, a cheap 450D, a ring for the focuser, the HEQ-5 and my laptop AT BEST if I decide to buy the mount. Now, what can be done photography wise on this setup ? Is it worthwhile ? Will it provide me with a "semi visual" ability to see nice results ON FIELD, on the camera screen, before editing ? What is the maximum exposure that I can do with a 90mm loaded HEQ-5 with the goto tracker ? And the most important question... Short subs in mind...No guiding in mind... Am I better off not investing that much cash in a HEQ-5 and instead go for an EQ-3 or something cheaper ? Thanks for any tips, even if you think this is all not worthwhile given the price of the HEQ-5 and my demands that's also an acceptable answer, feel free to post It's just a pretty nice price on the used HEQ-5 hence my question...
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