Dr_Ju_ju

On ‎12‎/‎06‎/‎2018 at 11:17, Gina said:

It does overload and could do with some way of reducing the brightness during bright daytime.  Fine if cloudy.  Unfortunately, the lens doesn't have an aperture control.  Some sort of arrangement to introduce a neutral filter into the light path would be good but I haven't been able to devise anything (yet). 

How about a 2 part polarising filter e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opticstar-1-25-Variable-Polarising-Moon-Filter-UK/322452114002?hash=item4b13a4ca52:g:U0MAAOSwWxNYyA3D 

Like Gina, I've used concrete to fill 2 part, air conditioning ducting 300mm & 150mm. Nothing will move it now, & I pity the next owners who want to remove it as it goes 2m into the ground.

If you want something lighter than EPDM, and maybe easier to apply\fix would be PVC pond liners e.g.   https://www.pondlinersonline.co.uk/product/pvc-pond-liner/ 

They are very strong, light & watertight and are even used for lining reservoirs, and much cheaper than EPDM. My pond has one & has never sprung a leak in the last 15 years....

According to the SW EQ8 manual, the connector is an RJ45, the same as is used on the AZEQ6 (what I have), I make up my own adaptors, & crimp RJ45 connectors to suit.

So if you or someone close to you, has the necessary tools & components, you could just shorten ones that you already have.

If you weren't so far away, I'd do it for you...

Good, luck James, but I wouldn't drop a pier out, you'd only kick yourself later, & at the design stage its easier chopping things around, but when built your stuffed....

I'm in the same boat, I already have Power Supply 0v rail and Bed ally plate bonded to earth, and most is relatively easy to do, XYZ motors, extrusion frame etc, if a little ugly with bonding straps everywhere. I could replace all the linking pieces & cut through the anodising, but that means buying more metal bits.

The only awkward one is the extruder as that will require a wire run up through the cable chains, which is a pity as I've only recently updated the wiring to cope with a change of bed sensor 

If the frame is anodised, as is mine, there is no guarantee that there is full earth continuity throughout.

In my BBC days, we spent ages adding bonding straps to everything on the racks etc. on every new installation, even if the equipment was housed in a wooden carcase, and not mains powered...

FYI, I came across this on the Duet3D forum https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5263/grounding.

The recommendation is to have everything earthed, including the motors, but the printed parts means the motors are isolated, so I will have to re-visit the earth bonding of all parts.... 

Can't put my hands on the circuit diagram, at the mo, but I believe all 3 on-board mosfets (bed & 2 heater) are the same, so it should be similar to the bed.

Circuit Diagram attached

Duet2_Schematic_v1.03.pdf

Joseph Prusa uses it on the i3 Mk3, but the Einsy Rambo board uses 2130 drivers, so don't if there would be any differences in action\re-action. 

I was going to try stall-guard, but DC42(Duet) advises against using it, on repeatability grounds, but after I my extruder get sorted (awaiting bearings), I may well give it a go.

Can we have some pictures, please, but it sounds like the drive isn't 'meshing' correctly

If you have access to a 3D printer, then there are a few designs on Thingiverse, e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1260785 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1406126 which can be adapted to suit most directly and or belted coupled motors....

Heads up, I was having issues trying to configure the Titan Aero, and came across this https://e3d-online.com/blog/2018/01/22/bearinggate/, which explains why my Aero has started missing steps & screeching, so I'm waiting for some new Igus bearings 

I've even resorted to printing out the accepted Gcodes pages, as it was getting tedious to find the correct code & how to configure it...

If you don't want to wade through the myriad pages of info on configuring the Duet, I've come accross this site which boils down the info into manageable chunks https://betrue3d.dk/blog-posts/ especially the "configuration walkthrough and adjust" which is a better explanation for the PID tuning...

a slap on the back

Non fanned supplies have more 'open' casing, giving the potential for small items, like motor screws, to drop inside... 

I worked on the basis of 5 off 2A motors plus additional for heaters fans etc. giving the closest approximation to 15A

As you are driving the bed from the mains, as am I, I bought one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24V-Best-quality-15A-360W-Switching-Power-Supply-For-LED-CCTV-Regulator-AC-to-DC/252989158017?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649, the only problem with it, was a noisy fan, soon rectified with a quieter device.

Also double check all the end stops, any case fans, LED strips etc. and plan accordingly...

Duet, by default wires the two Z motor ports in series on the board, so in theory you could just do some additional breakout wiring to have all three motors running in series As long as the drivers can supply enough current (2.4A limited from 2.8A) (https://www.duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_Features)

If you use DHCP, and you've enabled\set the scope on your router large enough (by default they are usually set to the whole subnet, bad security ) then there should be no issues with multiple similar devices...

My bad, its burnt into the module, don't know why it's not the same on the Ethernet module (my variant, as wifi for me, is outside my main network) 

You do it in the config.g file. I does explain this on the configurator pages

i.e.

M111 S0                             ; Debug off
M550 PMyCoreXY            ; Machine name (can be anything you like)
M551 Preprap                        ; Machine password (used for FTP connections)
M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address
;*** Adjust the IP address and gateway in the following 2 lines to suit your network
M552 P0.0.0.0      ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P192.168.1.1                   ; Gateway
M553 P255.255.255.0                 ; Netmask
M555 P2                             ; Set output to look like Marlin
M575 P1 B57600 S1     ; Comms parameters for PanelDue

Yay, don't forget to change the MAC addresses, else they will all look like the same device on the network......

When I had issues on thr Prusa i3, with the bed connectors overheating & burning, on the recommendation of Prusa Research, I soldered the wires directly to the board with no further problems.....

I just cut & twisted the wires, then solder tinned the ends, works ok...