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Thalestris24

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Everything posted by Thalestris24

  1. Thalestris24
    The op was asking how to fit an oag to a dslr with an mpcc, Tinker! I don't think he can afford, or wants to spend on, a ccd... Louise
  2. Thalestris24
    Hi You might be able to do it with a different e.g. cc that has more backfocus (75mm) which gives you an extra 20mm to play with That one does increase focal length somewhat. Are you sure you need an oag? Louise
  3. Thalestris24
    Hi John I think they do the extension tubes separately... I'm having second thoughts now anyway (see above). I'm now thinking I could achieve galaxy imaging with scopes I already have plus maybe a zwo camera. I'll delay making any decisions until the New Year (when I have some more money!). I just bought an apo refractor which should arrive by Monday so that will keep me busy - weather permitting! Thanks for the reply and info. Louise
  4. Thalestris24
    Hi Peter Ok - thanks for the tip! I think I might experiment with my 150pds + a ed barlow before splashing out on yet another scope. That way I can get 1500mm albeit at f10 (rather than f9) but at least I can see how I might get on with long fl guiding and imaging. Mind you, the currently discounted RC from TS I linked to does seem a bargain and I also like the idea of a shorter tube.. Louise
  5. Thalestris24
    Hi Chris It sounds quite stable, though (re johnrt above)? Looks like I'd need one of these too? Anyway, I'm thinking about it! Thanks Louise
  6. Thalestris24
    I'm quite tempted by a 6" version especially as I frequently feel the lure of galaxies TS have a bit of a discount on the GSO version at the moment. Any differences between the AA and GSO versions? I'm a bit concerned by the f9 though, yet I'd need the fl for galaxies. Any thoughts? How challenging are they to collimate compared to an f5 newt? Thanks Louise
  7. Thalestris24
    Yeah,, I meant difficult to do the PA with but it might be ok. Good luck! Louise
  8. Thalestris24
    Hi I guess you could in theory! But I think the small pixel scale and small fov might make it difficult - try it and see! Louise
  9. Thalestris24
    That's a fruity one, Rob! Louise
  10. Thalestris24
    Depends on the coma corrector. You'll have to try it and see! Enjoy your vacation! Louise
  11. Thalestris24
    Hiya I think you have to cut the end off the focus tube. Probably best not to do anything until you get a coma corrector. Louise
  12. Thalestris24
    Hi Frank Just to say that your bright stars have a 'notch' probably caused by the focus tube - maybe you already knew? Louise
  13. Thalestris24
    Hi Frank You obviously have coma which doesn't help. To image unguided you need your PA and balance to be spot on. I'm not sure where M45 appears in the sky for you? That might make difference. Louise
  14. Thalestris24
    Yeah,GSO before. I don't want to mess about swapping cc's as I'd have to get another extension tube/variable spacer to get the spacing right - an added complication. I'll do what I said - back to basics: strip down, sort out the focusser, re-collimate etc. Then take it from there... Louise
  15. Thalestris24
    Hi Rob Well I fiddled with it at the time and adjusted the mirror collimation as best as I could. The modded1100d images I got on the 130pds were acceptable - no tilt! I just decided to put it (the modded 1100d) on the heq5 for widefield with a lens, and put the qhy8l on the AVX/130pds because the qhy8l was being wasted and just gathering dust since the spring! I have digital callipers Thanks for the measuring tip! Cheers Louise.
  16. Thalestris24
    Hi Rob Yeah, I've watched that video of Dion's and decided I will have a go! I've ordered some accessories and when I've got them I'll start from scratch as per Dion's instructions. If that doesn't work maybe I'll just go back to the 150pds which has always been perfect. The 130pds has been troublesome since I first got it http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/238240-my-brand-new-130pds-hmm/ Louise
  17. Thalestris24
    Hi Rob As I mentioned before, it was ok with the 1100d and gso cc up until I swapped over to the qhy8l and mpcc last week so I suspect it's tilt. However, Perhaps it's showing up with the mpcc which has a tighter spacing. The difficulty is really in making the tilt adjustment. I could be at it forever! Um, there's an allen key screw on the base of the focus tube - might that be relevant? Anyway, it's cloudy at the moment but there's a chance of a clear spell later. Thanks Louise
  18. Thalestris24
    From Last night: Maybe not any better after all Louise
  19. Thalestris24
    Hi Rob Oh ok, no gap there! It was unexpectedly clear last night so did some more adjusting. I managed to improve things a bit more but it still needs a tweak. I'll post another image a bit later. Thanks Louise
  20. Thalestris24
    Hi Rob I'm not sure I understand what you mean by shining a torch... The cc is all the way in the focus tube. All you can see is the variable spacer - plus the qhy8l, of course. Here is a pic of the setup: I can't have the camera in line with the dovetail as I have a 70mm guide scope on the other side so have to balance the two. It's been like that for a while now and didn't cause a problem with the 1100d. Sadly, I don't have any friends - let alone one with a bench drill and tap... I could try doing it with a hand drill but would likely make a hash of it... I might get an imaging window between 2-4am so will maybe have another go at trying to adjust. It can only need a small amount but I obviously need to get it just right. Thanks Louise
  21. Thalestris24
    Hi Rob Here is a before adjustment image: And one I did last night after adjusting: Some improvement, I think but I didn't have the imaging time to try again. That's really why I was asking about any techniques to help me - preferably in daylight... I just (last week) moved the qhy8l over from my 150pds. I didn't have a problem previously with the 1100d + gso coma corrector on the 130pds so it looks like I've introduced it. I didn't have a problem previously with the qhy8l on the 150pds and I just moved the qhy8l+spacer+mpcc en bloc from the 150pds to the 130pds. Unfortunately, I don't think I have the skills or wherewithal to add a third screw to the focuser tube though I can see there'd by a distinct advantage to it! I've downloaded CCDInspector so will have a look with that tomorrow. Louise
  22. Thalestris24
    Hi Well it boils down to how the camera / coma corrector sit in the focuser tube. Louise
  23. Thalestris24
    Hi It's when the sensor/camera isn't square to the incoming image light . This results in one side or part of it having elongated stars. Louise
  24. Thalestris24
    Hi Thanks but that was essentially what I was doing but it was a PIA plus it relies on my judgement... They also mention ccd inspector so maybe that would be better. Cheers Louise
  25. Thalestris24
    Hi all So I finally got around to shifting my trusty qhy8l over to the 130pds last week I took a load of subs the other day and at first glance they seemed ok. However, on closer inspection there was some obvious tilt present - tut! It's painful to have to throw subs away... I tried to correct the tilt earlier but I think there might still be a hint present. I'm using the qhy tilt ring as well as the focuser screws. I'm wondering if there's an easy, foolproof way of getting the adjustment spot on? Is CCD Inspector the way to go or is there another magic technique I can use? I don't want to waste more subs! Grateful for any input/advice/suggestions. Thanks Louise (have also posted this on the Cameras forum)
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