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Posts posted by Alien 13
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As above, I would add that the EQ3/5 mounts with the dual axis motors will work fine for exposures up to 3 mins if you use the camera along with a camera lens rather than the scope either mounted piggy back on the scope or better still with a dedicated dovetail bar and ball head..
Alan
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I love how Affinity keeps evolving, nice..
Alan
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Thanks, just updated mine..
Alan
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2 minutes ago, Astro Noodles said:
So what do you think? Bin them? or is there enough there which would be worth repairing?
Have a look through both and decide which gives the best views then strip down the other pair and examine what can be cleaned/fixed, this will give you the opportunity to work out how they are put together. Then strip the first pair and swap any bits that are worse than the other ones..
Alan
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Look fine to me...
Alan
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To me the word grab suggest a one handed lift of all the kit in one go....thankfully all my kit I use regularly fits the bill.
Alan
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I would buy both pairs even if one is used for spares..
Alan
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The thing that gets me is that most of the old images taken on photographic plates even with the 200 inch scope have similar content regarding image scale etc as a 70 mm APO with a modern sensor, I expect in 10 years our mobile phones will match or better what we can achieve now even hand held.
Alan
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1 hour ago, MARS1960 said:
Thanks but I'm buying the 1600MC so won't be using filters, so that seems a rather expensive option.
Filters can be useful even with a colour camera, as well as the various LP filters there are the relatively new dual band filters available too.
Alan
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10 minutes ago, MARS1960 said:
Haha.
So does the 1600MC just screw directly onto the plate?
It will depend on configuration and if you have any filters in the imaging train but ultimately the spacing has to be such that the infinity mark is at the same position you get with your Canon camera when the 1600MC sensor is in focus. The lens to sensor distance needs to be set at around 44mm as a starting point but may need tweaking a mm or two either way.
Alan
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Just now, MARS1960 said:
Hi Alan, If that's the M48 bayonet replacement that Uranium suggested to FLO I think that might be my best option.
Thats the one, my Son has the Sammy but is having so much fun with it as a daytime lens that he gave up on the idea of the plate 😀
Alan
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17 minutes ago, MARS1960 said:
I'm in,
Got mine Tuesday and Philippe' gizmo came today.
201 x 30s on AZ GTI with a stock Canon 60D .
Thought I better post here now I've found the thread.
I'm soon to buy a ASI1600MC if anyone knows which adapters I need that would be very helpful.
Thanks.
The adapter choice depends on if you intend to keep the lens as a Canon "fit" or replace the back plate with one from Flo..
Alan
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The Samyang 135mm f/2 would have been my choice but expensive especially when you add in the price of a foot and adapters but will run at f/2 in most systems if you focus off center.
Alan
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5 minutes ago, Astro Noodles said:
20kg load is probably a bit overkill. Very nice though.
I very nearly pulled the trigger on the Artcise myself but wanted portability so opted for the Sirui which is a similar design but a lot lighter but still with a decent payload of 15Kg. There are lots tho chose from though, I spent weeks watching reviews etc.
Alan
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Another one to consider is this. I think there is a review of it or the Innorel version on this site somewhere in the review section.
found it
Alan
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I recently pushed the boat out and bought one of these its expensive but does everything for me, it has a weight limit of 12 Kgs but the tripod itself is only 1 Kg and comes with an ancillary 3/8 inch port for stuff like "magic arms" etc.
I have mine with an additional bowl head adapter and special ball head with a fully caged DSLR video rig sitting on top with no issues, the removable center column also gives so many other mounting options.
Alan
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What working height do you need? wondering if a photo tripod would do..
Alan
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18 minutes ago, Buqibu said:
Really? Huh, thats odd to think about, guess it makes sense, they don't really make stuff brighter, just allow more magnification at a given brightness
They do make point source objects brighter but not extended objects..the limit is the 6 mm or so of your iris.
The good news is that at a realy dark site you can have the WOW factor with the naked eye, small scope or binoculars or a large scope with each option showing its own unique view.
Alan
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Oddly enough the way scopes work means that a 100 inch Dob would get no more light into your eyeball than a 2 inch refractor and certainly less in both cases than no scope at all. What does change is the scale of the image you view.
Alan
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5 minutes ago, drivera said:
Thanks Alan, what's the SW range? Do you mind sharing an example for comparison?
I also saw ALTAIR STARWAVE 70 ED TRIPLET but unsure of that vs the WO Z71? There's a big difference in price between the Z71 and Z73 so now i'm going down a the rabbit hole.Skywatcher, like the Evostar 72 ED or 80 ED DS Pro or the Esprit range.
Alan
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Its worth looking at the SW range too, never been convinced by the WO GT range, the Z 61 or 73 are good value though.
Alan
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12 minutes ago, Astro Noodles said:
I have been experimenting at length with my 1100D and have found that the 'sweet spot' for me is iso 1600. I have been worried that I am doing something wrong and should be looking for iso 400-800 but I can't get the required signal from those. Having looked at the link you have posted, it says best iso for 1100d is 1600. so I'm pleased. 😁 Thanks for that Alan.
No problem, my old 650D was similar in that the optimum was between 800-1600 ISO as it is with most Canon cameras, the 80D is a strange beast..
Alan
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I too have an 80D and find the best ISO is between 100-400 due to the camera being relatively ISO invariant, see this site..
Alan
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Best travel scope bar none?
in Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups
Posted
I do like the Borg but best travel scope bar-none has to be this....
Alan