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Alien 13

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Posts posted by Alien 13

  1. 3 hours ago, John said:

    I can see the temptation there.

    This is a bit of a confession but recently I have occasionally been tempted by these ultra-simple clockwork driven camera mounts to try and stick my DSLR on and try to get something. I think they are branded Omegon ?

    So far I've resisted or missed getting a cheap one but maybe I'll try one at some point.

    Or are these the devices of the devil that will inevitably lead me down a dark and expensive path ? :evil4:

    These devices are not the work of the Devil but more of a plug and play option to capture the experience of your observing session and there is certainly no need to go further if you already have most of the kit anyway.

    Alan

    • Thanks 1
  2. As refractor objective increases so does the f/ratio required to get decent colour correction so the "sweet spot" might be sub 130mm, larger refactors get unwieldy too requiring very expensive mounts. In my view the cutoff point is around 130mm where even a SW 130PDS or better still a Tac Epsilon 130mm will not only be faster but easier to mount, at 200mm and above it has to be a mirrored scope.

    Alan 

    • Like 3
  3. This is common with most kit these days (should be banned in my view) the problem originates with most of the PSUs currently in use having 70-110V on the earth terminal, grounding is best done through a 100 ohm or similar 5 Watt resistor with each item in use, this will stop the tingle but keep some isolation of signal/data between each unit..

    Alan

  4. 10 minutes ago, Sabalias said:

    Thanks for the pointer Alan, works like a charm. In case anyone else has got a similar problem, you can solve it by setting the self timer on the camera to 2 seconds and kstars will still trigger the photograph but the first two seconds will be overridden by the camera parking the mirror. So if you program a 60 second exposure, with a two second self timer then the exposure will actually be 58 seconds. You will also need to include a program for a few seconds space between exposures I think. 
     

    Stu

    The two second delay is handy anyway to allow for any mirror slap vibrations to settle down, you are correct in the need for a few seconds between exposures so that and data can be written to the SD card or transferred over USB, I usually leave 10 seconds but I am always cautious.. 

    If the camera has other timer/intervalometer functions built in they too can sometimes be included in a sequence...

    Alan

  5. I did load Linux Mint onto my high end gaming laptop as a dual boot option and like most have said the installed software like Libre Office etc is fine for most uses, things I didn't like was the need to constantly enter passwords and the slow boot up time which was something like 14 seconds compared to the 5 seconds with Win 10..

    Alan

  6. On 22/06/2021 at 19:10, JamesF said:

    That looks fun :)

    Surely Cavor and Bedford beat Tintin to the Moon though?

    James

    Ah Cavorite, still got a jam jar full of the stuff and they were definitely the first to land on the Moon in a semi controlled way...

    Alan

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