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MeyGray3833

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Everything posted by MeyGray3833

  1. Yes, mine was an older version of SGP as well. I would have thought that updates to the system like dot NET would go ahead anyway regardless. Anyway, my obs is 60 km away so it isn't easy to put a mask on the scope, I rely on my software to be set up and function properly. I use remote utilities to control the imaging computer. Special trip next week coming up.
  2. I experienced this myself the other night, an identical scenario and I am in South Australia. I have just refitted my camera after some repair work and was trying to test it and just could not get focus. I tried several objects across the sky and gave up in the end. I then tried to upgrade to the latest version of SGP and discovered I did not have the correct updates and am currently waiting to retest after updating all the relevant software. Will post when I get a chance to test, probably next week. Glad to see I was not alone.
  3. Thanks for likes, people. Alan, it is on the end of the Lagoon Nebula so if you can see that you should be able to see this. I also had it incorrectly labeled as IC4585 instead of IC4685. Cheers and clears!
  4. Howdy. Winter in Australia, hasn't been too nice this year although it probably does not compare to yours. IC4685 and friends. https://pbase.com/image/169726007 Details under image and you can use the size buttons as well. Hope you see something that you like. Cheers and clears, Graham.
  5. Hi, Slowly getting in some time on the scope, having a remote location has its advantages and disadvantages, like every thing, I guess. I have struggled to present this in a way that I think it looks both pleasing and natural, this is iteration 37.2! https://pbase.com/grahammeyer/image/...79/original.jp Details are below the image as are the size controls. I hope you find something in it that you like.
  6. Thanks for stopping by for a look and for the likes! Cheers!
  7. Hi, A bit of vanilla flavour Corona Australis objects in LRGB. Details with image, use the size buttons at the bottom. https://pbase.com/grahammeyer/image/169457213 Cheers and clears!
  8. Purple in the image is now fixed, thanks to Bill! I will remember that one for sure. ?
  9. Thanks Bill, I shall give it a go. ?
  10. Finally completed my SHO version. There is some purple in the image I cannot figure out how to get rid of and I'm sick of playing with it. Hints and tips on how to get rid of it welcome, I'm using PixInsight. https://pbase.com/grahammeyer/image/169136922 Scroll to the bottom for size options and details. Thanks for looking!
  11. Hi David, Thanks for your comments. It only took about 5 complete fresh starts and a week and a bit after work etc. to get it to where I was happy with it. I know that Ha and OIII aren't meant to make natural colour! I've added the image details in for those that cannot see it on the link provided in my original post. Generally the heat is dry although it gets humid at times, although not really tropical. The problem is that the seeing is badly affected by the heat rise and some nights we were lucky to get below 25°C. Those nights the guide star jumps all over the place, which doubles the seeing error equaling a poor quality image. I share the obs with my brother and we both pulled out the scopes for about 5 weeks in the middle, it was near on impossible to do anything. Some very nice stuff on your website, by the way! Cheers and clears!
  12. Hello Astro Peeps, I hope everyone is all good! Isn't there some amazing images on this site and others. Amateur imaging has never been so good! I myself have finally managed to get some data for an image, of which I am very happy. It has been so hot here it has been impossible to get any good data. One day a couple of months ago, I hung the thermometer from the grape vine under the back verandah and it was 47.5°C. Sounds far fetched, although true. I live in Adelaide, South Australia and we are 11km from the CBD and usually 1.5 degrees hotter than there! Anyway, I thought I'd try my hand at a Ha, OIII bi-colour image while waiting for my SII data to come in. There seems to be a halo issue with some of the filters for which I will need to do further testing so I apologise for their distracting nature. Details are with the image but basically 3hrsx15min subs for each channel. https://pbase.com/grahammeyer/image/169113477 You can scroll to the bottom to choose another size or auto to fit your screen. Happy photon collecting! ? Details for those that cannot see them. Telescope: William Optics FLT132 Guide Scope: QHY OAG Camera: QHY9 Mono @ -20c Filter Wheel: QHY 7 position Ultra Slim Filters: Baader 36mm unmounted L R G B HA OIII SII Guide Camera: QHY5L-II Mount: AZ-EQ6 Mount Control: EQASCOM Focusing: SharpSky Pro and Sequence Generator Pro 3 (automated) Bahtinov Mask: No (initial focus) Capture Software: Sequence Generator Pro 3 Guiding Software: PHD2 Calibration and Stacking Software: PixInsight Processing Software: PixInsight Number and Type of Data Frames: L= X min, R= x min, G= x min, B= x min Ha= 12x15min, SII= x , OIII= 12x15min. Binning: 1x1 Total Image Time: 6 hrs Location: Lockleys Observatory B, Tanunda, Sth Australia Light Box by Exfso
  13. Ok, so the way you described it is how I set it up originally. I thought that I placed it wrong and added a 10mm spacer for giggles to see what would happen. Hard to get good star shape now. So, really this flattener is not suitable for a dedicated astro set up? If you want to dabble with a DSLR, all good. The other flattener that I have has a backfocus of 88mm plus 1 mm for filters. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p2646_TS-Optics-PHOTOLINE-Full-Frame-APO-Corrector---Flattener-for-astrophotography.html This unit appears to be made with cameras other than DSLR's in mind.
  14. Your modesty is a virtue, William. I have not fitted the field stops at this stage, I am a little bit over the battle at the moment, so I've decided to capture a few images with what I have for the moment and digest all that has come to pass. In doing so, I have been contemplating the new flattener that I have aside for the scope and was thinking about back focus distances which got me to thinking about my current setup. Can someone interpret the specs on this page for the Flat IV particularly the recommended lens to chip distance and back focus recommendations. https://www.cyclopsoptics.com/flattener-reducer/william-optics-flat4-0-8x-reducer-flattener/ I take it that the 66-86 mean the numbers on the flattener adjustment and the back focus is the distance from the chip to the back of the flattener?
  15. Wow, when Olly said you were the expert on this, he was not kidding! Thank you so much for all your effort so far. ? I will certainly give that a try and report back with my results. Seeing as the weather is so hot and guiding is poor due to the wobbly sky, it is the right time of year to do this. It is going to be 43 here tomorrow, it is 36 today. Glad I'm not missing out on too much! ?
  16. Thanks everyone for your help. As it stands today, I am defeated! ? William was right, I fear. After all the messing about and travel time as my obs is remote (120km round trip), I think I must concede that it is a reflection between the flattener and the filters. Nothing that I have done has changed anything except to remove the flattener. I have tried with no filter, which works as well, turning the filters around, painting the inside of the flattener and replacing the focuser among other things. I have another full frame flattener, a TS 2.5 inch that I will have to get some adapters made for so I can fit and test. At this stage, it will be imaging with out a flattener as I see no reason to persist. That will require a guider recal and possibly longer guide exposures to pick up guide stars as I notice the flattener can really help to resolve guide stars for OAG usage. Cheers and clears.
  17. I think the Dulux Dura Max will be the best. As for the painting itself, I have prepsol to clean the surfaces and yes, painting it with the spray can would be suicide. ? I am aware that replacing the flattener changes the focus point of the scope with the tube setup moving the focuser out which could possibly change where a reflection from something else might hit although I am sure that once you see the flattener internals it will be very easy to match up the off axis reflection with the components inside the flattener. Seeing the dot in the two images gave a pretty good hint once I looked in the flattener. Oh well, onward and upwards!
  18. William, are either of these suitable? I was thinking the Dulux Duramax by the cap colour? https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-duramax-300g-high-heat-enamel-spray-paint-black_p1400735 https://www.bunnings.com.au/white-knight-high-temp-300g-pot-belly-black-spray-paint_p1563023
  19. Thanks for all the info. I appreciate the feedback, links and advice, all good stuff! ? The sky magically cleared last night so I spent a few hours testing, swapping bits, etc. It is the flattener. If I put a tube in the imaging train where the flattener was, hey presto, no reflections. Refit the flattener, hello artifact, welcome back! ? I tested without the flattener, with the flattener and then without again on the same two objects that had been giving me trouble to ensure I had reasonably consistent results. I will try to photograph the flattener and the issue I think it is before I pull it apart and paint it inside and retest it. I am at work at the moment so I shall try to do that tonight. Now, about the tilt.....?
  20. Thanks Whirlwind, my F/Touch came with the adapter to make it the same size as a WO end so I will sus this out! ?
  21. Thank you Olly for the image. I think at this stage, and I am hoping, that the issue is a reflection bouncing inside the flattener off the shiny black anodising. That may explain where it is showing up. Awaiting better skies, as always! ??
  22. I see. ? To be honest, I cannot remember when this first started. I have tried to think back and I can only say maybe since I replaced the QHY filters with the Baader ones. The two shots, L & G were taken straight after each other, both were guided 5 min sub frames. Is that enough to allow the camera setup inc flattener to move? Or could it be that one of the filters is not sitting square. Ive recently had them all out to check them. I have a straight nose piece that I have used previously with no issues so I will change to that and add a tether, also something else I have done previously. I have pulled the flattener out and I am waiting for decent skies to do some testing. I can see into the flattener and while the "through" surface is a flat grey (I would not say black) the inside barrel is anodised and is highly reflective and appears to give a rflection of the "through" barrel. If testing without the flattener is fruitful, I will have to find a way to dis-assemble the flattener to paint it or flock it some how. That sounds a logical next step in the process, thank you. I am not able to find any arrows on the filters or any marks saying which way round the go. I have used good lighting and a magnifying glass. I searched online and it said for the Baader filters, if there is no arrow, the most reflective side goes to the scope, the other side to the camera. I will double check this. I am using a QHY9 Camera and a QHY ultra slim filter wheel with a QHY OAG and QHY5LII guide cam. Thank you William for your thoughts and suggestions. I hope I can get it sorted soon. ?
  23. I had trouble with getting SGP to work reliably. The trick was to use a digital vernier and actually measure how far 1000 steps moves the focuser in and out which will give you a very good average of your step size and also show you your backlash if using a rack and pinion focuser. Then you can set your amount of steps very accurately. I am running a Sharp Sky Pro set up on a 3.5 inch Feather Touch with step size of .00729mm (1000steps = 7.29mm). I set and tested at 25 steps, 9 data points with a star size of 10. I have since refined that to 30 steps with the same data points, etc. Also be aware that all autofocus routines will suffer in poor seeing and with fields lower in the sky. SGP has smart focus to try to help, I believe that Focus max has something compensatory as well. My other thought is, and I know that many people are using them with great success and this is my opinion only based on my experience, is a crayford focuser is not really a reliable device for accuarte focusng. A good rack and pinion unit with backlash compensation is a better mechanical choice straight up as it provides positive drive with no slippage.
  24. So far I have replaced the focuser with a Feathertouch that is flat blacked and baffled, as is the tube(FLT132), I have removed the filters and blackened their edges as they are the 36 mm unmounted type, with no success. I did some testing after fitting everything back and found that it was still there although it looks different in different filters. I did also notice a black dot in the ring of the reflection that is consistent across different filters. Could it be a screw hole or something, could I use this as something to guide me in what to check for? If the reflection is different in different filters, what would that say about where the reflection is originating from- before the filters and after the focuser? I have a WO Adj. PFlatIV in front of the filter wheel, may be it is in there. It also only seems to be when the scope is pointing more upright, which might indicate something falling over or flicking out when it starts to get vertical. I was going to get a ladder up there and see if I could see down there with a torch. I would definitely appreciate anyone's thoughts.
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